Motoyamaji Main Hall: A National Treasure of Kamakura-Period Esoteric Buddhist Architecture
Standing quietly amid the rural landscape of Mitoyo City in Kagawa Prefecture, the Main Hall (Hondō) of Motoyamaji Temple is one of Japan's most remarkable examples of medieval esoteric Buddhist architecture. Built in 1300 during the late Kamakura period, this single-story wooden hall has endured over seven centuries of history, earning designation as a National Treasure of Japan. As Temple No. 70 on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, Motoyamaji draws both devoted pilgrims and cultural travelers from around the world.
A Temple Founded by Kōbō Daishi
According to temple records, Motoyamaji was established in 807 (Daidō 2) by the revered Buddhist monk Kūkai—widely known as Kōbō Daishi—under the imperial decree of Emperor Heizei. Originally called Chōfukuji, the temple was the 70th sacred site designated along the Shikoku Pilgrimage route. Legend holds that Kōbō Daishi constructed the original main hall in a single night, a miracle known as "ichiya konryū" (overnight construction). He is also said to have personally carved the temple's principal image: a statue of Batō Kannon (Horse-Headed Kannon), a wrathful manifestation of the bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. This makes Motoyamaji the only temple among all 88 pilgrimage sites to enshrine Batō Kannon as its primary object of worship.
The Main Hall: Architecture and National Treasure Designation
The present Main Hall was rebuilt in 1300 (Shōan 2) during the late Kamakura period and has survived largely intact for more than 720 years. It was first registered as an Important Cultural Property on April 15, 1924, and subsequently elevated to National Treasure status on June 22, 1955.
The hall measures five bays wide (keta-yuki go-ken) and five bays deep (hari-ma go-ken), with a single-story structure topped by a hipped roof (yosemune-zukuri) covered in traditional Japanese hon-kawarabuki tiles. A three-bay front porch (kōhai) extends from the main facade, creating a welcoming entrance for worshippers.
The building is praised as an outstanding example of a "mikkyō hondō"—a main hall designed for Shingon esoteric Buddhist rituals. Its interior is divided into a sacred inner sanctum (naijin) and an outer worship hall (gejin), a spatial arrangement characteristic of esoteric temples where rituals involving fire ceremonies (goma) and mandala contemplation require a clearly defined separation between the clergy's sacred space and the area for lay worshippers. Three shrine cabinets (zushi), which are designated as appendages to the National Treasure, house the temple's sacred statues within the inner sanctum. The Agency for Cultural Affairs has described the hall's design as "interesting in its conception" and its interior shrine cabinets as "excellent."
Although the building has undergone periodic conservation work over the centuries—most recently during the Shōwa era and previously in the late Edo period—the structural framework retains much of its original 700-year-old timber. Damaged sections have been carefully repaired using traditional techniques, with new wood grafted onto the original members rather than replacing them entirely.
Why It Was Designated a National Treasure
Motoyamaji's Main Hall received National Treasure status for several compelling reasons. First, it is a superbly preserved example of a late Kamakura-period esoteric Buddhist main hall, a building type that is relatively rare among surviving medieval structures. The clear division between naijin and gejin, the well-proportioned hipped roof, and the refined architectural detailing all demonstrate the sophisticated building practices of 14th-century Japan.
Second, the three interior shrine cabinets (zushi) are recognized as works of exceptional craftsmanship, reflecting the high artistic standards of the Kamakura period. A fragment of a ridge-board inscription (munafuda) confirms the 1300 construction date, providing important historical documentation.
Together with the Main Hall of Kandaniji Shrine in Sakaide City, it represents one of only two National Treasure buildings in Kagawa Prefecture, underscoring the cultural significance of the Sanuki region during the medieval era.
Highlights and Things to See
The temple grounds span approximately 20,000 square meters, offering visitors an impressive collection of historic buildings and sacred spaces.
The Main Hall (National Treasure)
The centerpiece of the temple, this Kamakura-period hall is where pilgrims offer prayers to Batō Kannon. While the principal image is a hibutsu (hidden Buddha) not normally displayed to the public, the hall's exterior architecture—with its elegant hipped roof, weathered timber pillars, and three-bay entrance porch—is deeply impressive. Each year on the Day of the Ox during the doyo period in July, a special ceremony called "Kyūri Kaji" is held, during which visitors may enter the inner sanctum.
Niō Gate (Important Cultural Property)
The southern entrance to the temple, this eight-legged gate (hakkyaku-mon) houses fearsome guardian statues and is registered as a nationally Important Cultural Property. Passing through this gate is the traditional way to enter the temple precinct.
Five-Story Pagoda
One of only four five-story pagodas among the 88 Shikoku Pilgrimage temples, this striking tower was rebuilt in 1910 under the direction of head priest Yoritomi Jikki. Standing tall above the flat Sanuki Plain, it serves as a landmark visible from considerable distance. The pagoda underwent restoration work completed in 2019, and a new central statue of Taizō Dainichi Nyorai was consecrated in November 2023.
Horse Statues and the Legend of Batō Kannon
Near the Main Hall, visitors will notice horse statues—a tribute to the temple's unique principal deity. Batō Kannon, literally the "Horse-Headed Kannon," bears a horse's head atop his crown and is associated with compassion toward all living creatures, particularly animals. The presence of these horse statues is found at no other temple on the pilgrimage route.
The Legend of Tachiuke no Amida
During the Tenshō era (late 16th century), when forces of the warlord Chōsokabe invaded Sanuki, soldiers attacked the head priest inside the Main Hall. At that moment, blood is said to have fallen from the right hand of the flanking statue of Amida Nyorai. Frightened by this supernatural event, the soldiers fled, and the temple was spared from destruction. This statue is known as "Tachiuke no Amida" (the Amida who received the sword) and remains an object of deep reverence.
Surrounding Area and Nearby Attractions
Motoyamaji is situated in the scenic countryside of western Kagawa Prefecture, offering visitors a peaceful retreat far from crowded urban tourist sites. The area around the temple provides several worthwhile diversions.
- Iyadaniji Temple (Temple No. 71): Located about 10 km to the north on a mountainside, offering panoramic views of the Sanuki Plain.
- Kan'onji City and Kotohiki Park: Home to the famous Zenigata sand sculpture in the shape of an Edo-period coin, said to bring financial good fortune to those who view it.
- Chichibugahama Beach: One of Shikoku's most photogenic coastal spots, known for its stunning sunset reflections on the wet sand.
- Sanuki Udon: Kagawa Prefecture is renowned as Japan's udon capital, and visitors should not miss the chance to try freshly made sanuki udon at local restaurants.
Practical Information for Visitors
Motoyamaji is located on flat ground, making it easily accessible for visitors of all mobility levels. The temple is about a 15-minute walk from JR Motoyama Station on the Yosan Line. By car, take the Sanuki-Toyonaka Interchange on the Takamatsu Expressway and follow National Route 11 toward Kan'onji; the five-story pagoda is visible as a landmark. Free parking is available for approximately 30 vehicles. The temple does not offer lodging (shukubō), but accommodation can be found in nearby Kan'onji City.
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Q＆A
- Can I see the principal image of Batō Kannon?
- The principal image is a hibutsu (hidden Buddha) and is not normally displayed to the public. However, during the annual Kyūri Kaji ceremony held on the Day of the Ox in July, visitors may enter the inner sanctum of the Main Hall.
- Is there an admission fee?
- There is no admission fee to enter the temple grounds or view the Main Hall exterior. The temple is open to visitors year-round.
- How do I get to Motoyamaji from Takamatsu?
- Take the JR Yosan Line from Takamatsu Station toward Matsuyama and alight at Motoyama Station. The temple is approximately a 15-minute walk from the station. By car, the journey takes about one hour via the Takamatsu Expressway.
- Is the five-story pagoda currently open for viewing?
- The pagoda's major restoration was completed in 2019, and it is now fully visible and open for exterior viewing. A new central Buddha statue was consecrated in a ceremony in November 2023.
- Is Motoyamaji suitable for visitors who are not on the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
- Absolutely. While many visitors are pilgrims, the temple warmly welcomes all guests. The National Treasure Main Hall, Important Cultural Property Niō Gate, and five-story pagoda make it a rewarding destination for anyone interested in Japanese history, architecture, or Buddhist culture.
Basic Information
| Name | Motoyamaji Main Hall (本山寺本堂) |
|---|---|
| Temple Name | Shippōzan Jihōin Motoyamaji (七宝山 持宝院 本山寺) |
| Denomination | Kōyasan Shingon-shū (高野山真言宗) |
| Principal Image | Batō Kannon Bosatsu (Horse-Headed Kannon / 馬頭観世音菩薩) — Hibutsu (Hidden Buddha) |
| Pilgrimage Number | No. 70, Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage |
| Year Built | 1300 (Shōan 2, late Kamakura period) |
| Architectural Style | 5 × 5 bays, single-story, hipped roof (yosemune-zukuri), hon-kawarabuki tile roofing, three-bay front porch |
| Cultural Designation | National Treasure (designated June 22, 1955); appendages: three shrine cabinets (zushi) and ridge-board fragment |
| Founder | Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi), 807 |
| Address | 1445 Motoyama-kō, Toyonaka-chō, Mitoyo City, Kagawa 769-1506, Japan |
| Phone | 0875-62-2007 |
| Access | Approx. 15 min walk from JR Motoyama Station (Yosan Line) |
| Parking | Available (free, approx. 30 spaces) |
| Lodging | Not available (shukubō not offered) |
References
- 本山寺本堂 — 文化遺産オンライン
- https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/176542
- 七宝山 持宝院 本山寺 — 四国八十八ヶ所霊場会
- https://88shikokuhenro.jp/70motoyamaji/
- 四国八十八ヶ所霊場第70番札所本山寺 — 三豊市
- https://www.city.mitoyo.lg.jp/kakuka/seisaku/sangyo/14_1/2/2510.html
- 豊中町の文化財 — 三豊市
- https://www.city.mitoyo.lg.jp/gyosei/shisetsu/7/6/2925.html
- 本山寺 (三豊市) — Wikipedia
- https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/本山寺_(三豊市)
- Temple 70, Motoyamaji — Tourism SHIKOKU
- https://shikoku-tourism.com/en/see-and-do/10851
- The 70th Temple Motoyamaji Temple — Sanuki History & Culture Guide
- https://rekinabi-sanuki.net/en/pilgrim/070.html
Last verified: 2026.03.21