Ninomiya Kiln Site: An Ancient Tile-Making Legacy in Kagawa
Tucked away within the sacred precincts of Ōminakami Shrine in Mitoyo City, Kagawa Prefecture, the Ninomiya Kiln Site (二ノ宮窯跡, Ninomiya Kama-ato) is a nationally designated historic site that offers a rare window into medieval Japan's ceramic and tile-making traditions. Discovered in 1925 and officially designated as a National Historic Site in 1932, these two ancient kilns date back to the late Heian period through the Kamakura period (roughly the 12th to 13th centuries), making them invaluable archaeological resources for understanding the region's industrial and cultural heritage.
For international visitors seeking an off-the-beaten-path cultural experience in Shikoku, the Ninomiya Kiln Site combines archaeological intrigue with the serene, spiritual atmosphere of one of Kagawa's most venerable Shinto shrines. The site tells a compelling story of how skilled artisans once produced roof tiles and ceramics in this tranquil mountain setting, supplying temples and shrines across the Sanuki region.
History and Discovery
The Ninomiya Kiln Site was discovered in 1925 (Taishō 14) on the western hillside within the grounds of Ōminakami Shrine, a shrine with roots stretching back to the Yayoi or Kofun period. The discovery revealed two distinct kiln structures that had been buried and preserved for centuries. On April 25, 1932 (Shōwa 7), the Japanese government recognized the site's exceptional archaeological significance by designating it as a National Historic Site (国指定史跡).
The kilns are believed to have been active from the late Heian period into the Kamakura period, a time of significant political and cultural transformation in Japan. During this era, the demand for roof tiles surged as temples, shrines, and aristocratic residences expanded across the country. The Mitoyo area of western Kagawa was already established as a major tile-production center, as evidenced by the nearby Muneyoshi Tile Kiln Site, which produced tiles for the Fujiwara Palace in Nara during the 7th century. The Ninomiya kilns represent a later chapter in this rich ceramic tradition.
The Two Kilns: Structure and Significance
The site contains two kilns, each with a distinct shape and firing method, housed within protective shelters. While visitors cannot enter the shelters, the kilns can be observed through viewing openings.
The first kiln (第一窯) is roughly elliptical in shape, with its firing opening facing north. It features six built-in platforms on its floor, with fire channels arranged in a leaf-vein pattern between them. This design identifies it as a type of climbing kiln (登り窯, noborigama), which utilizes a slope to draw heat upward through the chamber for more efficient firing.
The second kiln (第二窯), located approximately 12 meters to the northwest, is rectangular in shape with its firing opening facing northeast. It has two built-in platforms with fire channels running between and alongside them. The horizontal arrangement of its platforms classifies it as a flat kiln (平窯, hiragama).
The coexistence of these two different kiln types at a single site is particularly noteworthy, as it suggests that the artisans here employed multiple firing techniques, possibly for producing different types of ceramics and tiles.
Archaeological Artifacts
Excavations at the Ninomiya Kiln Site have yielded a variety of artifacts that illuminate the range of products manufactured here and the artistic sensibilities of medieval Sanuki craftspeople.
Among the most significant finds are decorative eave-end tiles (軒瓦, nokigawara) featuring honeysuckle arabesque patterns (忍冬唐草文, nindō karakusa-mon) and alternating leaf designs. These intricate botanical motifs reflect the sophisticated artistic vocabulary of the period and demonstrate the high level of skill possessed by the kiln's artisans. Additionally, round eave tiles with the triple-comma (三ツ巴文, mitsudomoe-mon) pattern were recovered, a design commonly associated with Shinto and Buddhist architecture.
Beyond roof tiles, the kilns also produced everyday items including ceramic cups (杯, tsuiki) and inkstones (硯, suzuri), indicating that these workshops served both religious construction projects and the practical needs of the local community.
Why It Was Designated a National Historic Site
The Ninomiya Kiln Site received its national designation for several important reasons. First, the kilns provide direct physical evidence of medieval tile and ceramic production techniques in the Shikoku region, helping scholars understand the evolution of kiln technology from the Heian to Kamakura periods. Second, the site's location within the grounds of Ōminakami Shrine — one of the most historically significant shrines in Sanuki Province — suggests a close relationship between religious institutions and craft production in medieval Japan. Third, the variety of artifacts recovered, from ornate roof tiles to utilitarian ceramics, paints a comprehensive picture of the kiln's output and the needs of the communities it served.
The Mitoyo region's importance as a tile-production center is further underscored by the nearby Muneyoshi Tile Kiln Site (宗吉瓦窯跡), a separate National Historic Site where 24 kilns produced tiles that were shipped as far as the Fujiwara Palace in Nara during the 7th century. Together, these sites demonstrate that western Kagawa was one of Japan's most prolific tile-producing areas for several centuries.
Ōminakami Shrine: The Sacred Setting
The Ninomiya Kiln Site lies within the grounds of Ōminakami Shrine (大水上神社), which significantly enriches the visitor experience. This ancient shrine, ranked as the second most important shrine (二宮, ninomiya) in the former Sanuki Province, has origins that may date back to the Yayoi period (circa 300 BCE–300 CE). It is dedicated to the water deity Ōminakami-no-Ōkami and has been revered for centuries as a place of prayer for rainfall and agricultural prosperity.
The shrine grounds are enveloped in a dense, atmospheric forest that has been compared to the enchanted settings of Studio Ghibli films. Highlights include the Unagi-buchi (Eel Pool), a sacred pool where rainmaking rituals were traditionally performed; ancient iwakura (sacred rocks) believed to be the original objects of worship; and the Shigure Stone Lantern, a prefecturally designated Important Cultural Property dating from the Nanbokuchō period (1346 CE). Near the shrine's first torii gate stands a magnificent nezu tree (Chinese juniper) designated as a prefectural natural monument and said to be the second largest of its kind in Japan.
The legendary monk Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi) is also said to have visited the shrine before departing for China, composing poems that are still preserved in the shrine's records.
Highlights and Things to See
A visit to the Ninomiya Kiln Site and Ōminakami Shrine offers a deeply atmospheric journey through layers of Japanese history. Start at the shrine's stone torii gate along the prefectural road and walk along the approach path, which follows the course of the Miyagawa stream through an ancient forest. The stream, recognized as one of Kagawa's notable water environments, flows over rock ledges creating a soothing natural soundscape.
After paying respects at the main hall, follow the path to the right side of the shrine grounds to reach the kiln site. Information boards in Japanese explain the kilns' history and significance. The protective shelters allow you to peer inside and observe the firing platforms and channel structures that have survived for nearly a millennium.
The surrounding Takase area is known for its tea cultivation, and in late April, the Takase Ninomiya Furusato Festival features a walking route through the picturesque tea fields. The area around the shrine is also known as a firefly viewing spot during early summer, adding another dimension to seasonal visits.
Nearby Attractions
Mitoyo City and the surrounding area offer several complementary cultural and scenic attractions that pair well with a visit to the Ninomiya Kiln Site.
- Muneyoshi Tile Kiln Site Historic Park and Exhibition Hall (宗吉かわらの里展示館): Located about 20 minutes away by car, this facility showcases the remains of 24 ancient kilns from the 7th century that produced tiles for the Fujiwara Palace. The exhibition hall features reconstructed kiln models, excavated artifacts, and hands-on clay-working experiences. Open 9:00–17:00, closed Mondays. Admission: 100 yen for adults.
- Chichibugahama Beach (父母ヶ浜): Known as the "Uyuni Salt Flat of Japan," this beach creates stunning mirror-like reflections during low tide at sunset and is approximately 25 minutes from the shrine by car.
- Kotohira-gū Shrine (金刀比羅宮): The famous maritime shrine in nearby Kotohira, with its iconic 1,368 stone steps, is about 30 minutes by car from Ōminakami Shrine.
- Shikoku Pilgrimage Temples: Several temples on the 88-temple Shikoku Pilgrimage route are accessible from Mitoyo, including Motoyama-ji (Temple 70) and Daikō-ji (Temple 67).
- 📍 Plan Your Visit to Kagawa
- Find tours, activities & transport passes near Ninomiya Kiln Site
- [ Naoshima Art Island & Kotohiragu Shrine Visit ]
Q＆A
- Can I go inside the kiln shelters to see the kilns up close?
- The protective shelters housing the kilns are closed to entry to preserve these fragile archaeological remains. However, viewing openings allow you to look inside and observe the kiln structures. Information boards near the site provide context about the kilns' history and the artifacts discovered there.
- Is there an admission fee to visit the Ninomiya Kiln Site?
- No, the Ninomiya Kiln Site is located within the grounds of Ōminakami Shrine and can be visited free of charge at any time. The shrine itself is also free to enter. Parking is available near the shrine.
- How do I get to the Ninomiya Kiln Site by public transportation?
- From JR Takase Station on the Yosan Line, you can take the Mitoyo City Community Bus (Zaida-Takase Line) to the Ōminakami Shrine stop. The ride takes approximately 20 minutes. Alternatively, you can take a taxi from Takase Station. If driving, the shrine is about 15 minutes from the Sanuki-Toyonaka Interchange on the Takamatsu Expressway.
- Are there English-language signs or guides at the site?
- As of now, signage and information at the Ninomiya Kiln Site and Ōminakami Shrine are primarily in Japanese. It is recommended to research the site beforehand or use a translation app during your visit. The visual experience of the kilns and the shrine's atmospheric forest is rewarding regardless of language.
- What is the best season to visit?
- The site can be enjoyed year-round, but spring (late April) is particularly pleasant when the surrounding tea fields are at their greenest and the Takase Ninomiya Furusato Festival is held. Early summer (June) offers the chance to see fireflies near the shrine's stream. Autumn brings beautiful foliage to the shrine's dense forest. Summer can be hot and humid, but the forest canopy provides welcome shade.
Basic Information
| Official Name | 二ノ宮窯跡 (Ninomiya Kama-ato / Ninomiya Kiln Site) |
|---|---|
| Cultural Property Designation | National Historic Site (国指定史跡), designated April 25, 1932 |
| Period | Late Heian period to Kamakura period (approx. 12th–13th century) |
| Discovery | 1925 (Taishō 14) |
| Location | Within the grounds of Ōminakami Shrine, Takase-chō Hakata, Mitoyo City, Kagawa Prefecture |
| Access | Approx. 20 min by car from JR Takase Station; approx. 15 min from Sanuki-Toyonaka IC (Takamatsu Expressway) |
| Admission | Free |
| Parking | Available (free, near Ōminakami Shrine) |
| Key Artifacts | Honeysuckle arabesque eave tiles, triple-comma patterned round tiles, ceramic cups, inkstones |
References
- 二ノ宮窯跡 – 文化遺産オンライン
- https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/217519
- 大水上神社 – Wikipedia
- https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%A4%A7%E6%B0%B4%E4%B8%8A%E7%A5%9E%E7%A4%BE
- 大水上神社（おおみなかみじんじゃ） – 三豊市観光交流局
- https://www.mitoyo-kanko.com/facility/ominakami-shrine/
- 二ノ宮の瓦窯跡 – 全国観光情報サイト 全国観るなび
- https://www.nihon-kankou.or.jp/kagawa/detail/37421af2170019689
- 大水上神社 – 三豊市公式サイト
- https://www.city.mitoyo.lg.jp/kakuka/seisaku/sangyo/14_1/4/819.html
- 【三豊の文化財】二ノ宮の窯跡（国指定史跡） – 週刊みとよ ほんまモンRadio!
- http://mitoyo-honmamon.seesaa.net/article/462275038.html
- 宗吉かわらの里展示館 – 三豊市観光交流局
- https://www.mitoyo-kanko.com/facility/muneyoshi-exhibition-hall/
Last verified: 2026.03.11