Former Nankoin First Hospital

Former Nankoin First Ward: A Meiji-Era Sanatorium That Shaped Shonan's History

Standing quietly within the lush grounds of the Nankoin Memorial Taiyo-no-Sato Garden in Chigasaki, Kanagawa Prefecture, the Former Nankoin First Ward (旧南湖院第一病舎, Kyū Nankoin Daiichi Byōsha) is a remarkable survivor from the dawn of modern medicine in Japan. Built in 1899, this two-story wooden building was the very first ward of what would become known as "the greatest sanatorium in the East" — a sprawling tuberculosis treatment facility that profoundly influenced the development of Chigasaki and the broader Shonan region. Registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in 2018, the First Ward stands today as a rare and precious example of Meiji-period medical architecture, offering visitors a tangible connection to a pivotal chapter in Japan's public health history.

Historical Background: The Birth of Nankoin

The story of Nankoin begins with Dr. Takada Kōan (高田畊安, 1861–1945), a physician born in what is now Maizuru, Kyoto Prefecture. After graduating from the Imperial University's Faculty of Medicine, Takada worked as an assistant to the renowned German physician Erwin Bälz. When Takada himself contracted tuberculosis, the experience transformed his career. After recovering, he dedicated his life to treating the disease that was then Japan's deadliest scourge — in the Meiji era, tuberculosis killed an average of 73,000 people annually.

In 1896, Takada established the Tōyō Internal Medicine Clinic in Tokyo's Kanda district. Three years later, in 1899, he founded Nankoin as a branch facility in the seaside village of Chigasaki, drawn by the area's clean ocean air, mild climate, and pine-forested landscape — conditions considered ideal for tuberculosis treatment in an era before antibiotics. The institution's name derives from the local place name Nango (南湖), though Takada, who disliked voiced consonants, insisted it be read as "Nankoin."

The First Ward, completed in September 1899, was the inaugural building of this ambitious medical campus. Takada named it "Takeko-shitsu" (竹子室) after his mother. The very first patients admitted in October 1899 included the widow of the legendary statesman Katsu Kaishū — a connection that was no coincidence, as Takada had married Kaishū's granddaughter.

The Rise of "The Greatest Sanatorium in the East"

From its modest beginnings on approximately 5,568 tsubo (about 18,400 square meters) of land, Nankoin grew steadily over the following decades. By its peak in the 1930s, the facility had expanded to an extraordinary 50,000 tsubo (approximately 165,000 square meters) — roughly 3.3 times the size of the Tokyo Dome. The complex encompassed 14 ward buildings with 158 patient rooms, treating an average of 200 inpatients daily. Its advanced facilities included well water piped as running water, a weather station, flush toilets, wastewater purification systems, and steam heating — remarkably progressive infrastructure for the time.

Nankoin's reputation attracted medical students from across Japan, with visits to the facility becoming virtually a rite of passage for students at Tokyo's leading medical schools. The sanatorium's low mortality rate among its patients testified to the quality of care, which combined fresh sea air, proper nutrition, rest, and regular educational lectures on health and spirituality.

As a devout Christian who had been baptized under the influence of Niijima Jō (the founder of Doshisha University), Takada infused Nankoin with his faith. Each year, the hospital held an elaborate Christmas celebration called the "Iō-sai" (Medical King Festival), to which thousands of invitations were sent, drawing dignitaries including prefectural governors.

Literary Connections: Writers and Artists at Nankoin

Nankoin's history is intimately connected with some of Japan's most celebrated literary figures. In 1908, the acclaimed novelist Kunikida Doppo was admitted to the Third Ward, where he spent four months before passing away at the age of 36. His condition was serialized in the Yomiuri Shimbun newspaper, bringing national attention to both the sanatorium and Chigasaki as a resort destination. Prominent writers including Tayama Katai and Masamune Hakuchō visited Doppo during his final days.

The poet Yagi Jūkichi, known for his deeply spiritual and emotionally resonant verse, was admitted to Nankoin in 1926 before passing away the following year. The feminist pioneer Hiratsuka Raichō, founder of the groundbreaking literary magazine Seitō (Bluestocking), also had connections to the institution — her elder sister was treated there, and Raichō's partner, the painter Okumura Hiroshi, was a patient as well. Takada, showing characteristic compassion, accepted Okumura's paintings in lieu of payment for his treatment.

Why It Was Designated: Architectural and Historical Value

The Former Nankoin First Ward was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property (Registered Tangible Cultural Property — Buildings) on March 27, 2018. The designation recognizes several key attributes of the building. As a two-story wooden structure with a hip-and-gable roof covered in slate, the First Ward features a rectangular floor plan with a gabled entrance porch on the north side and a projecting staircase on the west side that adds visual variety to the exterior. The outer walls are clad in weatherboard siding (shitami-ita-bari), with rows of sash windows on both floors. The second-floor windows are adorned with decorative pediments, lending the building a distinctly Western character. The abundant fenestration was a deliberate design choice, ensuring maximum natural light and ventilation — critical considerations for a tuberculosis ward.

With a building area of 115 square meters and an extended floor area of approximately 68.75 tsubo, the First Ward contained 10 patient rooms. It represents an exceedingly rare surviving example of a Meiji-era tuberculosis ward in the Shonan region, which was renowned as a therapeutic destination. The building has undergone several renovations since its 1899 construction but retains its essential character and historical significance.

Highlights and What to See

Today, the Former Nankoin First Ward is accessible within the Nankoin Memorial Taiyo-no-Sato Garden (南湖院記念太陽の郷庭園), a public garden that opened in April 2016. The building itself can be viewed from the exterior, and the surrounding garden grounds offer several points of interest.

The First Ward's Western-style wooden architecture is immediately striking, with its weatherboard siding, decorative window pediments, and well-proportioned facade presenting an elegant example of Meiji-period institutional design. The building's position within the garden provides opportunities to appreciate how the original campus was oriented to take advantage of sea breezes and natural light.

Within the garden, visitors can find a memorial stone honoring Dr. Takada Kōan, set within a tranquil wooded area on the west side of the grounds. The garden also features a hyōtan-ike (gourd-shaped pond), a circular marui-ke pond with a fountain, wisteria trellises, and seasonal plantings that create a peaceful atmosphere throughout the year. The western edge of the garden has been selected as one of the "100 Best Views of Mt. Fuji in the Kantō Region" — on clear days, the snow-capped peak of Japan's most iconic mountain can be glimpsed between the trees and buildings.

Visitor Information

The Nankoin Memorial Taiyo-no-Sato Garden is open to the public on Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. The garden is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, as well as during the year-end and New Year holidays (December 28 to January 4). Opening hours are 10:00 to 17:00 from April through October, and 10:00 to 16:30 from November through March, with last admission 30 minutes before closing. Admission is free of charge.

The garden is located approximately a 20-minute walk south of JR Chigasaki Station. Alternatively, visitors can take the Kanagawa Chūō Bus from Chigasaki Station to the "Danchi Chūō" bus stop and walk approximately 8 minutes, or take the Chigasaki Community Bus "Eboshi-gō" to the "Nishihama Shōgakkō-mae" stop and walk about 8 minutes. Please note that there is no dedicated parking lot for visitors.

Surrounding Attractions

A visit to the Former Nankoin First Ward pairs beautifully with exploration of Chigasaki's other cultural and natural attractions. Southern Beach Chigasaki (サザンビーチちがさき), just a few minutes' walk south, offers panoramic ocean views with the iconic Eboshi Rock rising from the sea. The beach is famous for its "Chigasaki Southern C" monument, a popular photo spot and symbol of the city's connection to the legendary rock band Southern All Stars.

To the north, the Tsuruminé Hachimangū Shrine (鶴嶺八幡宮) is a historic Shinto shrine dating back to 1030, featuring a magnificent 800-meter-long pine-lined approach road. The shrine is known for its cancer-healing stone, an enormous ginkgo tree designated as a prefectural natural monument, and legends of a resident zashiki-warashi (child spirit). The Chigasaki Museum of Art and the adjacent Takasago Green Space provide further cultural enrichment with rotating exhibitions and serene Japanese gardens. For those interested in Chigasaki's literary heritage, the Chigasaki Yukari-no-Jinbutsu-kan (Chigasaki Museum of Notable Persons) offers exhibits on the many writers, artists, and cultural figures connected to the city, including Dr. Takada Kōan himself.