Gekka-den: A Hidden Treasure of Tokugawa Ieyasu Brought to Yokohama
Tucked into the inner garden of Sankeien in Yokohama stands an exquisite single-story building that once witnessed the dawn of the Edo period. Gekka-den (月華殿), literally "Hall of the Moon and Flowers," is a designated Important Cultural Property of Japan with an extraordinary journey behind it. Originally built in 1603 within Fushimi Castle in Kyoto by Tokugawa Ieyasu—the very year he was appointed shogun—this elegant structure was designed as a waiting room where daimyo lords gathered before granting audience. Today, more than four centuries later, it offers visitors a rare glimpse into the refined aesthetics of Japan's transition from the Momoyama era into a new age.
An Atmospheric Hall Surrounded by Garden Greenery
Approaching Gekka-den along the winding paths of Sankeien's inner garden (Naien), visitors first encounter a low entry framed by ancient trees, with the entrance plaque brushed in the elegant calligraphy of Hara Sankei, the garden's founder. The hall's quiet hipped-and-gabled (irimoya) roof of cypress bark blends seamlessly into the wooded slope, and from its three-sided veranda, the surrounding mossy garden seems to envelop the building as if time itself had paused. The understated exterior conceals an interior of considerable refinement, where natural light filters through paper shoji onto painted screens and finely carved transoms.
Historical Background: From Fushimi Castle to a Yokohama Garden
Gekka-den's story spans three centuries and three cities. According to long-standing tradition, it was constructed in 1603 (Keicho 8) within the precincts of Fushimi Castle in Kyoto, the political and ceremonial seat from which Tokugawa Ieyasu launched the Edo shogunate. The hall served as a control-room (hikae no ma) where great daimyo could rest and prepare before being received by the shogun—an architectural setting at the heart of early-Edo statecraft.
Relocation to Mimuroto-ji Temple in Uji
After Fushimi Castle was dismantled, the building was relocated to Kinzo-in, a sub-temple of Mimuroto-ji in Uji, southern Kyoto. There it served for centuries as a guest hall, accompanied by a small attached tea room. This second life preserved the hall as Buddhist temple architecture even as its origins as castle interior were quietly remembered.
The 1918 Move to Sankeien
In 1918 (Taisho 7), the silk-trade magnate and tea practitioner Hara Sankei (1868–1939), who was assembling a unique collection of historic Japanese architecture in Yokohama, acquired the hall together with its companion tea room from Mimuroto-ji's Kinzo-in. The two structures were carefully dismantled and transported to Sankeien. Tradition holds that each timber was wrapped one by one in fresh white cloth before transport—a measure of the extraordinary care taken to preserve the centuries-old fabric of the building. Upon reassembly, the attached tea room was separated from the main hall and reborn as Shunso-ro, now itself an Important Cultural Property of Sankeien.
Why Gekka-den Was Designated an Important Cultural Property
Gekka-den was first designated an Old National Treasure in 1931 (Showa 6) and, following the postwar reorganization of Japan's heritage system, was redesignated as an Important Cultural Property. Its value lies in the convergence of several rare qualities seldom found together in a single surviving building.
A Surviving Fragment of Fushimi Castle
Fushimi Castle itself no longer exists, having been dismantled and partially burned in the early seventeenth century. As one of the very few buildings traditionally identified as having stood within its grounds, Gekka-den is a precious witness to the architectural language of Tokugawa Ieyasu's seat of power.
Painted Screens Attributed to Kaiho Yusho
The interior comprises two principal rooms: the Take-no-ma (Bamboo Room) and the Hiogi-no-ma (Folding-Fan Room), each named for the motifs of their painted screens. The fusuma sliding doors and barrier paintings are attributed to Kaiho Yusho (1533–1615), one of the foremost masters of the Momoyama period whose career bridged the worlds of the warrior and the painter. Bamboo branches sweep across one set of doors; on another, painted folding fans (hiogi) scatter in elegant disarray. The work conveys what Sankeien's curators describe as an archaic vibrancy—powerful, slightly unrefined in its lines, and deeply expressive of late Momoyama taste.
Carved Transoms of Stylized Chrysanthemums
Above the sliding doors, the wooden ranma (transoms) are pierced with openwork chrysanthemum designs. The chrysanthemum—long associated with the imperial court and with autumnal poetry—is rendered here as a stylized motif, neither overly ornate nor austere, lending the rooms a sense of quiet ceremony.
Highlights and What to Look For
Even when the interior is closed to general viewing, much of Gekka-den's character can be appreciated from outside. A walk around the exterior reveals layers of history embedded in its very materials.
The Roof and Eaves
The hall is roofed in cypress bark (hiwadabuki), one of the most labor-intensive of traditional Japanese roofing techniques, while the eaves overhanging the verandas are finished in thin-shingle kokerabuki. The combination is distinctive of high-status buildings of the Momoyama and early Edo periods. The roof was most recently restored in conservation work completed in 2024, returning its silhouette to peak condition.
The Approach and Setting
Originally, a covered climbing corridor connected Gekka-den to the rear of Rinshunkaku, the great daimyo residence at the heart of Sankeien's inner garden. Today the two stand as distinct structures, but the route between them still rewards an unhurried stroll past mossy stones, seasonal flowers, and quiet streams. The entry plaque above the doorway, brushed by Hara Sankei himself, is a reminder of the personal vision that shaped this entire garden.
Special Interior Openings
Gekka-den's interior is generally closed to the public, but it is occasionally opened for special viewings—most recently following major conservation work. Travelers are encouraged to check Sankeien's official announcements before visiting in case such an opportunity is available during their stay.
Around Sankeien: A Garden of Seventeen Historic Buildings
Gekka-den is one of seventeen historic buildings carefully relocated to Sankeien from across Japan. The garden itself was designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty in 2007. Within an easy walk of Gekka-den you can experience:
- Rinshunkaku (Important Cultural Property) — an early-Edo daimyo villa originally built for the Kishu Tokugawa family
- Shunso-ro (Important Cultural Property) — the elegant tea house once attached to Gekka-den itself
- Tenju-in (Important Cultural Property) — a thatched-roof Zen-style hall from early Edo Kamakura
- The Three-Storied Pagoda of the former Tomyo-ji — a Muromachi-period landmark visible across the garden
- The former Yanohara House — a magnificent gassho-zukuri farmhouse from the Shirakawa-go region
- Kakushokaku — the residence of Hara Sankei himself, designated by Yokohama City
The garden is set within an 18-hectare landscape of ponds, hills, plum and cherry groves, water lilies, irises, and autumn maples, offering an entirely different atmosphere with each season.
Visitor Information and Access
Sankeien is located in the Honmoku district of central Yokohama, a short drive from downtown but worlds away in atmosphere. The garden is open year-round except for a brief year-end closure.
Recommended Routes
From central Yokohama, the most reliable approach is by JR Negishi Line to Negishi Station, then a short city bus ride toward Honmoku. Direct buses also run from Yokohama Station East Exit. By car, visitors can use the Sankeien IC interchange (with some directional restrictions—check the official site for current routing). Limited parking is available; during peak flower seasons, public transport is strongly recommended.
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Q&A
- Can visitors enter Gekka-den itself?
- In normal operation the interior is not open to the general public; visitors view it from the surrounding garden paths. Gekka-den is, however, sometimes opened during special events and conservation-related public viewings, and it is also available for rental for tea ceremonies and cultural gatherings. Please check Sankeien's official announcements for current openings.
- Is the connection to Tokugawa Ieyasu confirmed?
- The traditional account, recorded by Sankeien and other authorities, holds that the building was constructed within Fushimi Castle by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1603. Like many surviving fragments of vanished castles, this connection is preserved through long-standing transmission rather than archival documents alone, but the early-seventeenth-century date and high-status construction are consistent with that history.
- Who painted the interior screens?
- The fusuma and barrier paintings of bamboo and folding fans are traditionally attributed to Kaiho Yusho, a leading painter of the Momoyama period whose career encompassed both warrior service and major commissions for Kyoto temples and aristocrats.
- How long should I plan for a visit to Sankeien?
- Most visitors find that a leisurely visit takes about two to three hours, allowing time to walk both the outer and inner gardens, view the historic buildings, and stop for tea or a light meal at one of the on-site teahouses.
- When is the best season to visit?
- Each season offers its own appeal: plum blossoms in February, cherry blossoms in late March to early April, water lilies and lotus in summer, and brilliant maples in November and early December. Special evening openings during cherry blossom and autumn-color seasons are particularly memorable.
Basic Information
| Name | Gekka-den (月華殿) |
|---|---|
| Designation | Important Cultural Property (Building) — first designated 1931 (then Old National Treasure); current designation under the postwar Cultural Properties Protection Law |
| Date of Construction | 1603 (Keicho 8), early Edo period |
| Original Location | Fushimi Castle, Kyoto (traditional account) |
| Relocation | Moved to Kinzo-in of Mimuroto-ji, Uji; relocated to Sankeien in 1918 (Taisho 7) |
| Architectural Style | Single-story; irimoya (hip-and-gable) roof of hinoki cypress bark; eaves finished in kokera shingles |
| Composition | Take-no-ma (Bamboo Room), Hiogi-no-ma (Folding-Fan Room), and a three-sided veranda |
| Interior Features | Painted screens of bamboo and folding fans, attributed to Kaiho Yusho; transoms with chrysanthemum openwork carving |
| Owner | Sankeien Hosho-kai Foundation (Public Interest Incorporated Foundation) |
| Address | 58-1 Honmoku Sannotani, Naka-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture (within Sankeien Garden) |
| Garden Hours | 9:00–17:00 (last entry 16:30); closed December 29–31 |
| Garden Admission | Adults 900 yen; Children (elementary/junior high) 200 yen (subject to change) |
| Access | From JR Negishi Station, city bus approx. 10 min to "Honmoku" stop, then about 10 min on foot |
References
- 月華殿｜横浜 三溪園
- https://www.sankeien.or.jp/learn/facilities/gekkaden/
- 古建築｜横浜 三溪園
- https://www.sankeien.or.jp/learn/facilities/
- 月華殿 - 文化遺産オンライン
- https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/199509
- 三溪園 - Wikipedia
- https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E4%B8%89%E6%BA%AA%E5%9C%92
- 【横浜三溪園】重要文化財「旧東慶寺仏殿」「月華殿」内部を特別公開（横浜市プレスリリース）
- https://prtimes.jp/main/html/rd/p/000001362.000013670.html
- 重要文化財｜月華殿（横浜・三溪園）｜文化遺産見学案内所
- https://bunkaisan.exblog.jp/29668147/
- 交通アクセス｜横浜 三溪園
- https://www.sankeien.or.jp/access/
Last verified: 2026.05.06