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Magaki-giku Raden Makie Suzuribako: A Shimmering National Treasure from the Kamakura Shogunate

Nestled among the sacred treasures of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine in Kamakura lies one of Japan's most exquisite lacquerware masterpieces — the Magaki-giku Raden Makie Suzuribako (籬菊螺鈿蒔絵硯箱), a writing box adorned with chrysanthemums by a brushwood fence, rendered in gold maki-e lacquer and luminous mother-of-pearl inlay. Designated a National Treasure of Japan, this remarkable artifact from the early Kamakura period (late 12th to early 13th century) represents the pinnacle of Japanese lacquer artistry and carries a storied provenance connecting it to the very founders of the Kamakura Shogunate.

What Is a Suzuribako?

A suzuribako, or writing box, was an essential piece of stationery for the Japanese aristocracy and warrior elite. These elegant boxes held the tools necessary for calligraphy — an inkstone (suzuri), a water dropper (suiteki), and brushes — all arranged within a beautifully decorated container. Far more than functional objects, suzuribako were symbols of refinement and cultural accomplishment, and the finest examples showcased the most advanced lacquer techniques of their era. The Magaki-giku Raden Makie Suzuribako is considered one of the finest surviving examples of these luxurious writing implements from medieval Japan.

A Gift from an Emperor: The Legendary Provenance

According to the traditions of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, this writing box was originally bestowed upon Minamoto no Yoritomo — the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate and Japan's first military ruler — by Retired Emperor Go-Shirakawa. Yoritomo then dedicated the precious box as a sacred offering to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, the spiritual heart of the Minamoto clan and the guardian shrine of the warrior government.

Legend further holds that Yoritomo's formidable wife, Hojo Masako, cherished this writing box for personal use. Whether or not the attribution to these historical figures can be verified with certainty, the provenance places the box firmly within the circle of the most powerful people in late 12th-century Japan and speaks to the extraordinary quality of the craftsmanship.

Masterful Techniques: Gold, Lacquer, and Mother-of-Pearl

The Magaki-giku Raden Makie Suzuribako is a showcase of the most sophisticated lacquer techniques of the Kamakura period, combining several decorative methods into a harmonious whole.

The exterior lid is executed in the ikakeji technique, in which fine gold powder is lavishly sprinkled over wet lacquer to create an opulent golden surface. Against this glowing ground, the artisan depicted chrysanthemums blooming behind a rustic brushwood fence (magaki), accompanied by small rocks, grasses, and delicate birds perched among the branches. These motifs are rendered in raden — thin pieces of iridescent mother-of-pearl shell carefully cut, shaped, and inlaid into the lacquer. In some areas, the shell pieces are pierced through (sukashi) or incised with fine lines to add further detail, such as the veins of petals and the texture of feathers.

When the lid is opened, the interior reveals a different but equally stunning technique. The lid's inner surface and the interior of the box body are covered in kinashiji — a warm golden "pear-skin" ground created with fine gold particles suspended in lacquer. Upon this shimmering surface, the same chrysanthemum-and-fence motif is reproduced in togidashi maki-e, a technique where the gold lacquer design is covered with additional layers of lacquer and then carefully polished down until the buried design re-emerges flush with the surface, creating a smooth, subtly luminous effect.

Every edge of the box is finished with silver fukurin (rim fittings), lending a crisp elegance to the rounded rectangular form and its gently domed lid.

Inside the Box: A Complete Writing Set

What makes this writing box especially rare among surviving Kamakura-period examples is that it retains its original interior contents — a complete set of writing implements. At the center sits an inkstone framed with a silver rim. Beside it rests a rectangular water dropper (suiteki) made of gilt silver, adorned with relief carvings of chrysanthemum branches. Flanking these on either side are shallow removable trays called kakego (brush boats), also edged in silver, with chrysanthemum-and-fence maki-e decorating their inner bases. Even beneath the removable trays, the bottom of the box is decorated with the same elegant motif, demonstrating the extraordinary care taken with every surface, whether visible or hidden.

Why Was It Designated a National Treasure?

The Japanese government designated the Magaki-giku Raden Makie Suzuribako as a National Treasure on June 9, 1951, recognizing its exceptional significance on multiple grounds. It stands as a representative masterpiece of early Kamakura-period maki-e and raden lacquerwork, demonstrating the remarkable technical achievements of Japanese artisans at a time when the combined use of these two techniques was reaching new heights of refinement. The box is also one of the very few surviving suzuribako from the Kamakura era, making it an invaluable document of the material culture and aesthetic sensibilities of Japan's medieval warrior elite. The fact that it preserves its complete set of original interior fittings — inkstone, water dropper, and brush boats — adds immeasurably to its historical and cultural importance.

The Lost Companion: A Matching Hand Box Lost at Sea

The writing box once had a companion piece — a cosmetics hand box (tebako) of identical design known as the Magaki-giku Raden Makie Tebako. Tradition holds that Hojo Masako used this matching box to store her personal toiletry items. Tragically, this companion piece was lost forever in 1873 when the ship carrying it back from the Vienna World Exposition sank during the return voyage to Japan.

Though the original tebako is gone, its memory endures. An Edo-period illustrated scroll depicting the lost hand box survives as a Kamakura City cultural property. Furthermore, the Kamakura Museum of National Treasures has commissioned a faithful reproduction of the tebako, which is occasionally displayed alongside the original suzuribako, allowing visitors to imagine the splendor of the pair as they once existed together.

Where and When to See It

The writing box is owned by Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine and is deposited at the Kamakura Museum of National Treasures (Kamakura Kokuhōkan), located within the shrine's expansive grounds. Because of its delicacy as a lacquerwork artifact, it is not on permanent display. The box typically appears one or two times per year in special exhibitions, most reliably during the annual autumn exhibition held around the time of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu's grand annual festival (Reitaisai) in mid-September. Check the museum's official website or the Kamakura City cultural affairs page for the latest exhibition schedules before planning your visit.

Exploring the Surroundings

A visit to see the writing box can easily be combined with a full day exploring Kamakura's rich cultural landscape. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine itself is one of Japan's most important Shinto shrines, founded in the 11th century and closely tied to the Minamoto clan. Within its grounds, visitors can admire the main hall, the atmospheric Genpei Pond, and the picturesque approach along Dankazura — a raised cherry-tree-lined path that is especially stunning in spring.

Nearby, the charming Komachi-dōri shopping street offers local crafts, sweets, and dining. For more cultural exploration, the temples of Kenchōji and Engakuji — both great Zen monasteries from the Kamakura period — are a short distance away. The iconic Great Buddha at Kōtoku-in and the seaside beauty of Enoshima are also easy day-trip additions. Together, these make Kamakura an ideal destination for travelers who wish to experience Japan's medieval warrior heritage in a compact, walkable setting just an hour from central Tokyo.