Nagasaki Jiro Bookstore

Nagasaki Jiro Bookstore: A Literary Landmark in Kumamoto's Castle Town

Standing proudly along the tram lines of Kumamoto's historic Shinmachi district, Nagasaki Jiro Bookstore is one of the oldest bookshops in Kyushu, with a history stretching back to 1874. Its striking Taisho-era building, designed by the renowned architect Yasuoka Katsuya and completed in 1924, is registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property. Once frequented by literary giants such as Mori Ogai, Natsume Soseki, and Koizumi Yakumo, this charming establishment continues to serve as a beloved cultural landmark where architecture, literature, and café culture converge in the heart of Kumamoto's former merchant quarter.

Historical Background

Nagasaki Jiro Bookstore was founded in 1874 (Meiji 7) by Nagasaki Jiro, who originally dealt in antiques such as tea utensils and hanging scrolls. When Japan's modern school system was established, Jiro was appointed as an official textbook distributor, marking the bookstore's transition into the world of publishing and education. Over the following decades, the shop became one of the most prominent bookstores in Kyushu.

The literary fame of the bookstore is well documented. Mori Ogai recorded in his Kokura Diary that he visited "the bookshop proprietor Nagasaki Jiro," and both Natsume Soseki and Koizumi Yakumo (Lafcadio Hearn) are also said to have patronized the store during their time in Kyushu. In 1889, a branch was opened along Kamitori arcade, which later became independently operated as Nagasaki Shoten after World War II.

The current building was constructed in 1924 (Taisho 13) to replace an earlier structure. Architect Yasuoka Katsuya, famous for designing Tokyo's Marunouchi red-brick office district for the Mitsubishi conglomerate, was commissioned to create a building befitting the store's distinguished reputation. The resulting structure is a masterful Japanese-Western eclectic design that has become an iconic feature of the Shinmachi streetscape.

In 2013, the bookstore temporarily closed due to business difficulties. However, the Nagasaki Shoten company (the former branch) took over the bookstore operations, reopening in July 2014 as a fully renovated establishment with a second-floor café. In 2016, the building sustained exterior cracks during the Kumamoto earthquake, but remarkably reopened just three days later to serve as a gathering place for the local community. The author Haruki Murakami also visited during disaster relief efforts. In 2024, the bookstore portion ceased operations after 150 years, though the second-floor Nagasaki Jiro Kissashitsu (café) continues to welcome guests.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

Nagasaki Jiro Bookstore was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property (Registered Tangible Cultural Property for Buildings) on January 16, 1998. The designation recognizes several key aspects of the building's architectural and historical significance.

Located near the center of the former castle town's merchant district, the two-story wooden structure features exterior walls reinforced with brick — a distinctive hybrid construction technique. The building was designed by Yasuoka Katsuya, one of the most important architects of the Meiji and Taisho periods, who is best known for his work on the Marunouchi red-brick office buildings in Tokyo.

The architectural features that merited its designation include the shallow eaves, parapet-like walls topped with small roofs, ornamental cornice details, and the continuous series of modified arches on the second floor. These elements combine Western architectural vocabulary with Japanese construction methods, creating a building that is both aesthetically striking and historically significant as a document of Taisho-era commercial architecture in regional Japan. Its prominence as one of the oldest and most recognized bookstores in Kumamoto further adds to its cultural value.

Architectural Highlights and Attractions

The building's façade is perhaps its most captivating feature. The brick-clad exterior gives it a solid, European appearance, while the wooden structure beneath reflects traditional Japanese building techniques. The second-floor windows are framed by a series of distinctive modified arches that create an elegant rhythmic pattern across the façade. Decorative cornices and the unusual parapet walls with miniature rooflines add further visual interest.

The ground floor retains its function as a cultural space, while the second floor houses the Nagasaki Jiro Kissashitsu, a café that opened in October 2014 in what was formerly the bookstore's office space. The interior was carefully renovated to preserve the Taisho-era atmosphere while creating a comfortable, clean space for guests. From the second-floor windows, visitors can enjoy a quintessentially Kumamoto scene: the city's iconic tram cars gliding past on the stone-paved street below, framed by the historic townscape of Shinmachi.

The café serves specialty coffee, classic Neapolitan spaghetti (limited to 20 servings daily), beef curry, and homemade desserts including a celebrated custard pudding. The opening time of 11:26 each day is a playful reference to the founding family — "26" can be read as "ji-ro" in Japanese wordplay.

At the rear of the ground floor, a small gallery space called Gallery Jiro hosts rotating exhibitions including original artwork shows, connecting the bookstore's literary heritage with the visual arts.

Surrounding Area and Access

Nagasaki Jiro Bookstore sits in the Shinmachi district, part of the original castle town established by the feudal lord Kato Kiyomasa when he built Kumamoto Castle. The area retains a peaceful, nostalgic atmosphere with historic buildings scattered throughout the neighborhood, making it ideal for leisurely exploration on foot.

Nearby points of interest include Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan's three premier castles, located a short walk to the northeast. The Meganebashi (Spectacles Bridge), a stone arch bridge built by the master stonemason Hashimoto Kangorō, spans the Tsuboi River nearby. The Fujisaki Hachimangu Shrine, with over 1,000 years of history, hosts the renowned Autumn Festival featuring a lion dance procession designated as an intangible folk cultural property.

The bookstore is easily accessible by Kumamoto City Tram — alight at the Shinmachi stop, and the building is directly in front of you. No dedicated parking is available, but nine affiliated Times parking lots are located in the surrounding area. From JR Kumamoto Station, the tram ride takes approximately 15 minutes.