Hokanji Temple Five-Story Pagoda (Yasaka Pagoda)

Introduction: The Iconic Yasaka Pagoda of Kyoto's Higashiyama

Rising 46 meters above the narrow lanes and traditional machiya townhouses of Kyoto's Higashiyama district, the five-story pagoda of Hokan-ji Temple — universally known as the "Yasaka Pagoda" (八坂の塔) — is one of the most recognizable landmarks in all of Japan. Positioned midway between the celebrated Yasaka Shrine to the north and the world-famous Kiyomizu-dera Temple to the south, this elegant tower has defined the eastern skyline of Kyoto for nearly six centuries.

Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, the Yasaka Pagoda is the third tallest wooden five-story pagoda in the country, surpassed only by the pagodas of To-ji Temple and Kofuku-ji Temple. What makes it truly exceptional, however, is that visitors can actually enter the pagoda and climb to its second story — a rare privilege among Japan's heritage pagodas. Whether viewed from the atmospheric cobblestone slope of Yasaka-dori street or admired up close within its intimate precincts, the Yasaka Pagoda offers a deeply moving encounter with Japan's architectural heritage.

Historical Background

The origins of Hokan-ji Temple reach back to the dawn of Japanese civilization. According to temple tradition, Prince Shotoku — the legendary regent credited with shaping early Japanese Buddhism — founded the temple in 589 CE (the 2nd year of Emperor Sushun's reign) after receiving divine instruction from the bodhisattva Nyoirin Kannon in a dream. He is said to have enshrined three grains of the Buddha's sacred relics (busshari) within the foundation stone of the pagoda's central pillar.

While the Shotoku attribution, first recorded in a 1338 document by the Chinese monk Seisatsu Shocho, is regarded with some scholarly caution, it is certain that the temple predates the establishment of Kyoto as the imperial capital in 794. Archaeological evidence, including roof tile fragments excavated on site, suggests the temple's origins lie in the 7th century. A widely accepted alternative theory holds that the temple was founded as a clan temple of the Yasaka family, an immigrant clan with roots on the Korean Peninsula.

The temple first appears in official historical records under the name "Yasaka-dera" in an entry from the year 837 in the Shoku Nihon Koki chronicle. During the Heian period, the temple enjoyed considerable prestige, ranked among the seven temples supported by the imperial household under the Engishiki legal code.

The pagoda has endured a dramatic cycle of destruction and reconstruction over the centuries. In 1179, it was caught in a violent conflict between the warrior-monks of Kiyomizu-dera and the guardians of Gion Shrine (now Yasaka Shrine) and burned to the ground. It was rebuilt in 1191 with the patronage of Minamoto no Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate. After being struck by lightning and destroyed again in 1291, it was restored in 1309 under the sponsorship of Retired Emperor Go-Uda.

In 1240, the Zen monk Saio Shokyu entered the temple and converted it from a Shingon Buddhist institution to a Zen temple affiliated with the Rinzai Kennin-ji school, its current sectarian identity. In 1338, Shogun Ashikaga Takauji, at the recommendation of the renowned Zen master Muso Soseki, designated the Yasaka Pagoda as the "risoto" (memorial pagoda) of the capital, enshrining additional Buddhist relics.

The present pagoda dates from 1440 (Eikyo 12), rebuilt with the support of the sixth Muromachi Shogun, Ashikaga Yoshinori, after a fire in 1436. While the devastating Onin War (1467–1477) destroyed all other temple buildings, the pagoda miraculously survived and has stood continuously for over 580 years.

Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property

The Yasaka Pagoda was designated as an Important Cultural Property as early as 1897 (Meiji 30), making it one of the first structures in Japan to receive such protection. Several factors contributed to this recognition.

Architecturally, the pagoda is a masterpiece of purely Japanese-style (wayō) construction. Standing 46 meters tall with a base measuring approximately 6 meters on each side, it is built in the three-bay, five-story pagoda format (sangen gojū no tōba) and crowned with traditional hongawarabuki (formal tile) roofing. Its design preserves the aesthetic principles of the Hakuho period (late 7th century), despite the 15th-century reconstruction date.

One of the pagoda's most distinctive architectural features is that verandas and railings (en and kōran) are present only on the fifth story — an unusual design not commonly seen in other Japanese pagodas. Beneath the pagoda's altar, the original foundation stone (shinsō) from the temple's founding era remains in place, featuring a triple concentric cavity that once held the sacred relic container. This ancient stone, made of shōkōseki (pine resin stone), provides tangible evidence of the site's deep antiquity.

The pagoda also houses five statues of the Gochi Nyorai (Five Wisdom Buddhas) — Dainichi Nyorai at the center, flanked by Ashuku Nyorai, Hōshō Nyorai, Amida Nyorai, and Fukūjōju Nyorai in the four cardinal directions. Among the temple's treasured possessions are a painted scroll depicting the pagoda and surrounding temples (Shihon Chakushoku Yasaka-tō Ezu), a portrait of Ashikaga Yoshinori, and the historical document Hōkan Zakki.

Architectural Highlights and Visitor Experience

The Yasaka Pagoda offers a remarkably intimate encounter with medieval Japanese architecture. Unlike most heritage pagodas in Japan, which can only be viewed from the outside, the Yasaka Pagoda opens its ground floor and second story to visitors — making it the only Important Cultural Property-designated five-story pagoda in Japan where the public can regularly ascend to the upper levels.

Upon entering the ground floor, visitors are greeted by the Five Wisdom Buddhas arranged around the massive central pillar (shinbashira). The richly painted interior murals and the solemn atmosphere of the sacred space create an unforgettable impression. Visitors can then climb a steep traditional staircase to the second story, where narrow window openings frame stunning views of the Kyoto cityscape and the surrounding Higashiyama hills.

From the outside, the pagoda is perhaps even more spectacular. The view from Yasaka-dori street — looking east up the gentle slope toward the pagoda silhouetted against the sky — is one of the most photographed scenes in Kyoto and has appeared in countless films, television programs, and travel publications. In the evening, the pagoda is illuminated, creating an ethereal scene that enchants visitors strolling through the lantern-lit streets.

Please note that interior visits are offered on an irregular schedule depending on the availability of temple staff, typically between 10:00 and 16:00. It is advisable to call ahead (075-551-2417) to confirm opening hours before planning your visit. The admission fee is 400 yen for visitors of junior high school age and above; children under junior high school age are not permitted inside due to the steep staircase.

Surrounding Attractions

The Yasaka Pagoda enjoys one of the most enviable locations in all of Kyoto, set within the historic Higashiyama district — a neighborhood that preserves the atmosphere of old Kyoto like no other. A wealth of world-class cultural sites lies within easy walking distance.

Just steps away is the Yasaka Kōshin-dō (Kongō-ji Temple), famous for its colorful hanging cloth monkeys (kukurizaru) believed to grant wishes. Walking south along the picturesque Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka slopes leads to Kiyomizu-dera, the UNESCO World Heritage temple celebrated for its dramatic wooden stage. To the north, the elegant precincts of Kodai-ji Temple — built by Nene, the widow of Toyotomi Hideyoshi — offer serene gardens and seasonal illuminations.

Nearby Nene-no-Michi (Nene's Path) is a beautiful stone-paved promenade lined with restaurants, tea houses, and craft shops, connecting the Yasaka Pagoda area to Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine. The entire Higashiyama walking route from Kiyomizu-dera through the Yasaka Pagoda to Yasaka Shrine is one of Kyoto's most beloved strolls, offering a continuous immersion in the city's living heritage.