Kakushoin Hokyointo

Kakushoin Hokyoin-to: A Remarkable Stone Pagoda in Kyoto's Sagano

Tucked away in a quiet cemetery behind the renowned Seiryoji Temple (Saga Shakado) in Kyoto's atmospheric Sagano district, the Kakushoin Hokyoin-to stands as a striking testament to medieval Japanese stone craftsmanship. This 2.26-meter granite hokyoin-to (treasure-print pagoda) has been designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan since 1960, recognized for its exceptional artistry and historical significance. For visitors seeking authentic cultural experiences beyond Kyoto's crowded main attractions, this hidden gem offers a serene encounter with centuries-old Buddhist art in one of Japan's most evocative landscapes.

What Is a Hokyoin-to?

A hokyoin-to is a type of Buddhist stone pagoda originally designed to enshrine the Hokyoin Darani sutra (the "Treasure-Print Dharani Sutra"). The form traces its origins to the Ashoka pillars of ancient India and the bronze miniature pagodas produced in 10th-century China by King Qian Hongchu of the Wuyue kingdom. In Japan, stone versions of these pagodas began appearing during the Kamakura period (1185–1333) and became widely used as memorial towers and grave markers.

The basic structure of a hokyoin-to consists of five elements from top to bottom: the sorin (finial spire), kasa (umbrella-shaped cap with stepped tiers), toshin (body), kiso (base), and kidan (platform). The distinctive feature that sets hokyoin-to apart from other stone pagoda types is the presence of sumi-kazari — ear-like ornamental projections at the four corners of the cap.

History and Significance of the Kakushoin Hokyoin-to

The Kakushoin Hokyoin-to dates to approximately the early Muromachi period, though some scholars identify characteristics more consistent with the late Kamakura period. It is believed to have been erected in memory of Priest Enkaku, the founding abbot of Jizo-in, a sub-temple of Seiryoji that once stood on this site.

The cemetery where the pagoda stands was historically known as the Jizo-in Cemetery. During the early Meiji era, Jizo-in was merged with Kakushoin, a sub-temple of the great Daikakuji Temple. The Jizo Bodhisattva statue that had been enshrined at Jizo-in was transferred to Kakushoin, and the cemetery came under Kakushoin's administration. On February 9, 1960, the pagoda was officially designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, classified under the category of pre-modern structures.

Why Was It Designated as an Important Cultural Property?

The Kakushoin Hokyoin-to earned its designation as an Important Cultural Property for several compelling reasons. Its overall proportions and craftsmanship represent the finest traditions of medieval Japanese stone carving. What makes this pagoda particularly noteworthy is the unusual treatment of its body (toshin): each of the four sides features a circular recess carved into the stone, within which a seated Buddha figure is rendered in half-relief upon a lotus pedestal. This technique of hollowing out circular niches is quite rare among hokyoin-to and gives the four directional Buddhas a remarkably three-dimensional, almost sculptural quality.

The four Buddhas depicted represent the Exoteric (Kengyo) directional deities: Amida (west), Miroku (north), Yakushi (east), and Shaka (south). The precision and elegance of these carvings, combined with the sophisticated architectural details throughout the pagoda's structure, demonstrate the high level of stone-working skill achieved by artisans of this period.

Architectural Details and Highlights

Standing at a total height of 2.26 meters, the Kakushoin Hokyoin-to is crafted entirely from granite and displays the refined aesthetic sensibility of its era.

The Cap (Kasa)

The stepped cap follows the classic form with two tiers below and six tiers above. The corner ornaments (sumi-kazari) feature elegant double-arc outlines, within which a crescent moon upon a lotus pedestal is carved — a motif symbolizing Buddhist enlightenment.

The Body (Toshin)

The most distinctive feature of this pagoda is the treatment of its body. Circular recesses are carved into each of the four faces, creating intimate niches in which the four directional Buddhas sit in half-relief upon lotus pedestals. This unusual technique lends remarkable depth and presence to the figures, making them appear almost free-standing despite being carved from the stone surface.

The Base (Kiso) and Platform (Kidan)

The base follows the danjozumi style (stepped platform construction). The upper portion features inverted lotus petals in the fukuben-kaeri-bana pattern. On the front face, an open lotus design is carved within the kozama (decorative arch panel), while the remaining three sides display gracefully shaped kozama without interior decoration. The platform beneath is also of danjozumi construction, built upon cut stone, with each side divided into two sections containing kozama panels.

Surrounding Stone Works

The pagoda does not stand alone. To its right is a stone Buddhist figure dating from the Kamakura period (partially restored), and to its left stands a small octagonal stone lantern (hachimen sekido) from the late Kamakura period. Together, these three stone works create a remarkable open-air gallery of medieval Buddhist stone art.

About Kakushoin Temple

Kakushoin is the sole surviving sub-temple (tatchu) of Daikakuji, one of Kyoto's most historically important temples. Founded during the Shohei era (1346–1370), Kakushoin was established as a residence for members of the imperial and noble families who had taken Buddhist vows to carry on the religious traditions of retired emperors. Today it serves as a Bekkaku Honzan (Special Head Temple) of the Shingon sect Daikakuji school.

The temple's main hall, donated by Shogun Tokugawa Ienobu in 1711, enshrines the Eleven-Faced Kannon Bodhisattva as its principal deity, along with Kangiten (Shoten-sama), the Buddhist equivalent of the Hindu deity Ganesha. Kakushoin is popularly known as "Saga Shoten" and is particularly famous for its annual Daikon (radish) Memorial Service held in late November, during which visitors can enjoy stewed daikon radish blessed by the temple as an offering to dispel impurities of body and mind.

The temple also holds a special connection to Emperor Meiji: his mother, Princess Keiko, had close ties with Kakushoin, and the temple prepared a blessed maternity sash (ohara-obi) for his birth. This tradition continues today, with many expectant mothers visiting to pray for safe deliveries.

Surrounding Attractions

The Kakushoin Cemetery is situated behind Seiryoji Temple (Saga Shakado), one of Sagano's most important temples. Seiryoji houses a National Treasure Shaka Nyorai standing statue, famously known as the "Shaka of Three Lands" for having traveled from India through China to Japan. The temple's Treasure Hall, open during special exhibitions in spring and autumn, contains another National Treasure — the Amida Triad.

Just a short walk north brings you to Daikakuji, the great head temple of the Shingon sect Daikakuji school, originally built as Emperor Saga's detached palace. The temple grounds include the picturesque Osawa Pond, considered Japan's oldest garden pond, and several Important Cultural Property buildings.

The wider Sagano and Arashiyama area offers countless attractions including the famous Bamboo Grove, the Togetsukyo Bridge, Tenryuji Temple (a UNESCO World Heritage site), Nison-in Temple (renowned for its autumn foliage), and the charming Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple with its thousands of stone Buddhist statues. The area is especially breathtaking during cherry blossom season in spring and the vivid autumn foliage season.