Kenda Kokushi Kesa

A Tang Kesa in Tsuzure-ori Linked to Kukai

The Kenda Kokushi Kesa (犍陀穀糸袈裟) is a Tang-dynasty seven-panel kesa owned by Kyoogokokuji (Toji) in Minami Ward, Kyoto City, and kept at the Kyoto National Museum, which in 1953 was designated a National Treasure.

The Agency for Cultural Affairs records a single kesa 115.7 by 272.7 centimetres, owned by Kyoogokokuji.

According to the Agency, Kukai is said to have received it from his teacher Huiguo.

Construction

According to the Agency, it is a rectangular seven-panel kesa whose main field shows layered clouds in tsuzure-ori weave using silk of several colours. The strips and border are brown twill with wheel and vajra motifs, with light blue floral twill in places behind the strips.

The lining is purple floral twill in five widths, with two kinds of ring motif, one mainly yellow and light blue and the other white and purple. The strips and border twill appear original, while the lining is a later replacement.

What to Look For

The Agency notes that a twelfth-century record of the New Year rites describes it as kept in the lacquered kesa box with sea-and-shore designs, itself a National Treasure. Names for the kesa vary in sources such as the Toboki, with no settled view.

The Agency values the tsuzure-ori of this kesa and the floral twill of its companion stole as showing Tang textiles and as objects brought back by Kobo Daishi. Seen with the stole also kept at Toji, it gives a picture of Tang weaving.

Visiting the Kenda Kokushi Kesa

The kesa is kept at the Kyoto National Museum and is not always on display; check the museum's schedule.