Honganji Temple (Nishi Honganji)

Head Temple of the Hongwanji Branch of Jodo Shinshu

The Honganji Temple (Nishi Honganji) (本願寺, Honganji), known as Nishi Honganji, is the head temple of the Hongwanji branch of Jodo Shinshu, facing Horikawa-dori in Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture, whose Goeido and Amida halls were designated National Treasures in 2014.

Its Goeido and Amida halls, shoin (Taimensho and Shiroshoin), Kuroshoin, north Noh stage, Karamon gate and Hiunkaku pavilion are National Treasures, and its entrance halls, south Noh stage, bathhouse (Okakudai), main gate and other buildings are Important Cultural Properties.

According to the Agency for Cultural Affairs, it began in 1272 when Shinran's youngest daughter Kakushinni reburied his remains at Otani in Higashiyama and built a mausoleum hall; by the Muromachi period it had grown into a large Buddhist community with many followers. After several moves, it established its precinct on the present site from 1591.

According to the Agency, the Goeido and Amida halls stand side by side at the centre, facing east.

The Goeido and Amida Halls

According to the Agency, the Goeido enshrines a wooden statue of the founder, Shinran, and its framework was raised in 1636. It is among the largest surviving Edo-period buildings, its outer hall covering 441 tatami mats to hold large numbers of followers.

The Amida hall enshrines a statue of Amida Buddha and was rebuilt in 1760. The Agency notes that its construction completed Honganji's arrangement of two great halls side by side, and the form of worship in which crowds of followers visit both halls by way of connecting corridors.

The Shoin, Noh Stages, Karamon and Hiunkaku

Honganji describes its shoin as a representative example of the grand Momoyama shoin style, with a full set of alcove, staggered shelves, decorative doors and built-in desk, and decorated with gold-ground wall paintings and carving. It divides into the Taimensho and Shiroshoin; to the north is the north Noh stage, the oldest surviving Noh stage, and to the south the south Noh stage, where Noh is performed to celebrate Shinran's birthday.

The Karamon is a four-legged gate with cusped gables and a cypress-bark roof, covered in lavish Momoyama carving and nicknamed the Higurashi-mon, the gate where one forgets that the day is ending. The Hiunkaku is a three-storey pavilion counted with the Kinkaku and Ginkaku among the three great pavilions of Kyoto.

Visiting Honganji

Honganji runs free guided tours of the precinct led by its monks four times a day (from 10:00 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 1:45 p.m. and 3:30 p.m., about 30 minutes each); anyone may join by coming to the general information office (Ochadokoro) before the start time.

According to the temple, the gates open at 5:30 a.m. and close at 5:00 p.m., though the schedule can change. From JR or Kintetsu Kyoto Station, take Kyoto City Bus 9, 28 or 75 from the Kyoto Ekimae stop to Nishi Honganji-mae, or Keihan Bus 311 or 312 from Kyoto Station Hachijo-guchi to Nishi Honganji. By taxi it is a few minutes from JR Kyoto Station.

The shoin buildings are treated as non-public cultural properties. On the 16th of every month except January, which the temple calls Shinran's Day, worshippers who attend the morning service and sermon may join a monk-guided tour of the shoin: registration is at the Ryūkoden hall from 9:00 a.m. to 10:00 a.m., the tour runs from 11:00 a.m. until about noon, places are limited to 40 with no advance booking, and photography is not allowed. The Hiunkaku is normally closed to the public.

Enquiries: Honganji, 075-371-5181.