Three Story Pagoda of Joruriji Temple (Three Story Pagoda of

Jōruri-ji Three-Storied Pagoda: A National Treasure Embodying Heian Pure Land Paradise

Nestled in the secluded hills of the Tōno district in Kizugawa City, Kyoto Prefecture, the three-storied pagoda of Jōruri-ji Temple stands as one of Japan's most precious architectural treasures. Designated as a National Treasure, this elegant pagoda dates to the late Heian period and is believed to have been relocated from Kyoto's Ichijō Ōmiya area in 1178. Rising gracefully from the eastern hillside of the temple grounds, the pagoda forms an essential part of a rare Pure Land garden that has survived largely intact for over 800 years.

Also known as Kutai-ji (Nine-Buddha Temple), Jōruri-ji is a place where architecture, nature, and Buddhist philosophy merge seamlessly. The temple's layout represents an earthly vision of paradise — with the three-storied pagoda symbolizing the Eastern Pure Land of Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha) and the main hall on the opposite shore representing the Western Pure Land of Amida Nyorai. For travelers seeking an authentic, contemplative experience far removed from the crowds of mainstream tourist destinations, this hidden gem offers a deeply moving encounter with Japan's spiritual heritage.

History and Origins of the Pagoda

According to the Jōruriji Rukinokoto, the temple's sole historical chronicle and itself an Important Cultural Property, Jōruri-ji was founded in 1047 by the priest Gimyō, who enshrined a statue of Yakushi Nyorai as the principal deity. The temple's name derives from the Eastern Pure Land of Yakushi Nyorai, known as the Jōruri World — a realm said to shine with the brilliance of lapis lazuli.

The three-storied pagoda was relocated to the temple grounds in 1178 (Jishō 2) from Ichijō Ōmiya in Kyoto. The original temple from which it came remains unknown. As virtually all Heian-period wooden structures in Kyoto were lost to fires and wars over the centuries, this pagoda holds the remarkable distinction of being the only surviving Heian-era building that was originally constructed in the capital city. It is presumed to have been built shortly before its relocation.

The temple itself underwent significant development during the late Heian period. In 1150, a pond was constructed as the centerpiece of the Pure Land garden. The current main hall, housing the nine Amida Nyorai statues, was moved to its present position in 1157. Together with the pagoda's arrival in 1178, these elements completed the sacred landscape that visitors can still experience today.

Why It Was Designated a National Treasure

The three-storied pagoda of Jōruri-ji was designated as a National Treasure on March 29, 1952. Several factors contributed to this prestigious recognition.

First, the pagoda is an exceptionally rare survivor of Heian-period wooden architecture. Standing approximately 16 meters tall, it is one of the smallest National Treasure three-storied pagodas in Japan, yet its compact proportions give it an exquisite elegance. The structure is a three-bay, three-storied pagoda (sanken sanjū no tōba) with a cypress bark (hinoki-buki) roof, preserving construction techniques characteristic of the late Heian era.

Second, the pagoda features a unique structural innovation: the interior of the first story has no central pillar (shinbashira). Instead, the heart pillar begins at the ceiling of the first floor and extends upward through the upper stories. This allowed a Buddhist altar to be placed inside the first story, upon which the Yakushi Nyorai statue is enshrined. This architectural solution is considered among the earliest known examples of removing the central pillar from the ground level of a pagoda.

Third, the pagoda retains its role within a complete Pure Land temple complex. The spatial relationship between the pagoda on the east bank and the main hall on the west bank, connected by the central pond, represents a fully realized Buddhist cosmology that is extraordinarily rare in its preservation.

Architectural Features and Highlights

The pagoda's exterior presents a striking contrast of vermilion-painted pillars against white-plastered walls, topped by the gentle curves of its cypress bark roofing. The subtle proportions and refined details reflect the aesthetic sensibilities of the Heian aristocracy.

Inside the first story, the walls are adorned with paintings of the Sixteen Arhats (Jūroku Rakan) and other Buddhist figures. These murals are believed to date from the late Kamakura period (13th–14th century), when restoration work was carried out on the pagoda. Though not visible to visitors on most days, these paintings represent an important example of medieval Buddhist art.

The pagoda enshrines a wooden seated statue of Yakushi Nyorai, designated as an Important Cultural Property. This statue, approximately 85.7 centimeters in height, was carved using the ichiboku-zukuri technique — sculpted from a single block of wood — and dates to the 12th century. It still rests upon its original lotus pedestal from the same era. Yakushi Nyorai is venerated as the Buddha of Healing, believed to relieve the suffering of all sentient beings in this world.

The Pure Land Garden: A Paradise on Earth

The pagoda cannot be fully appreciated without understanding its role within the broader Pure Land garden of Jōruri-ji, which is designated as both a National Historic Site and Special Place of Scenic Beauty.

The garden's design embodies the Buddhist concept of two Pure Lands connected by a sacred body of water. The three-storied pagoda stands on the eastern hillside, representing the "this shore" (shigan) — the world of the living, where Yakushi Nyorai heals worldly suffering. Across the pond to the west, the main hall (also a National Treasure) houses nine Amida Nyorai statues, representing the "other shore" (higan) — the Western Paradise to which souls are guided after death.

The pond between them, said to be shaped like the Sanskrit letter "a," symbolizes the ocean separating this world from the afterlife. On the days of the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sun rises directly behind the three-storied pagoda in the east and sets behind the main hall in the west — an alignment that was intentionally calculated when the temple was designed, allowing visitors to experience the Pure Land cosmology through the actual movement of the sun.

This is the only remaining temple in Japan where a nine-Amida hall and its surrounding Pure Land garden have survived together from the Heian period. Historical records indicate that more than 30 such temples once existed in and around Kyoto, but all others have been lost.

Special Openings and Viewing Opportunities

The interior of the three-storied pagoda is normally closed to the public. However, the doors of the first story are opened on special days, allowing visitors to view the Yakushi Nyorai statue enshrined within. These special opening days include the 8th of every month, the first three days of the New Year (January 1–3), and the days of the spring and autumn equinoxes. Openings are weather-dependent and only take place on clear days.

Additionally, the temple holds seasonal special exhibitions. In spring (typically March 21 to May 20) and autumn (typically October 1 to November 30), the famous Kisshouten (Goddess of Fortune) statue, an Important Cultural Property known for its remarkably beautiful coloring, is displayed in the main hall.

For visitors who wish to experience the full spiritual significance of the site, the equinox days offer an especially powerful opportunity. On these days, the alignment of the sun with the pagoda and main hall brings the Pure Land philosophy to life in a tangible, visual way.

Other National Treasures at Jōruri-ji

While the three-storied pagoda is a highlight, Jōruri-ji is home to an exceptional collection of cultural properties. The main hall (National Treasure) is a long, horizontally oriented structure dating to the Heian period, built specifically to house the nine seated Amida Nyorai statues (also National Treasures) arranged in a row. Each statue has subtle differences in facial expression and halo design. The nine figures represent the concept of "nine grades of rebirth" described in the Amitāyus Contemplation Sūtra — the idea that there are nine different levels of spiritual attainment through which one may be reborn in the Pure Land.

The temple also houses the Four Heavenly Kings (Shitennō) statues, designated as National Treasures, which retain vivid original coloring and intricate kirikane (cut gold leaf) decorations from the Heian period. Two of these statues remain in the main hall, while the other two are on deposit at the Tokyo National Museum and Kyoto National Museum respectively.

Surrounding Area: The Tōno Stone Buddha Trail

Jōruri-ji is located in the Tōno district, a historically rich area on the border between Kyoto Prefecture and Nara Prefecture. The name "Tōno" originally meant "Ridge of Pagodas" (塔尾), reflecting the density of Buddhist structures that once dotted this hillside landscape where monks from Nara's great temples came to practice in seclusion.

The area is renowned for its stone Buddha statues (sekibutsu) carved into rock faces and boulders, most dating from the Kamakura period (13th–14th century). A popular hiking trail of approximately 3 kilometers connects Jōruri-ji with nearby Gansenji Temple, passing numerous stone carvings along the way. Highlights include the famous "Warai Botoke" (Smiling Buddha), a compassionate Amida triad carved in 1299, and the "Nemuri Botoke" (Sleeping Buddha), a small figure half-buried in the earth. The Tōno district has been recognized as one of "Japan's 100 Most Beautiful Historical Landscapes."

Gansenji Temple itself is worth visiting, known as the "Flower Temple" for its spectacular hydrangeas in June and its three-storied pagoda surrounded by seasonal blooms. Together, these two temples and the stone Buddha trail offer a full day of immersive cultural exploration.

Practical Information for Visitors

The temple grounds, including the garden and exterior of the pagoda, can be visited free of charge. Admission to the interior of the main hall to view the nine Amida Nyorai statues costs 400 yen for adults and 150 yen for children. The temple is open from 9:00 to 17:00 (March to November) and from 10:00 to 16:00 (December to February).

From JR Kamo Station on the Yamatoji Line, take the Kizugawa City Community Bus (Tōno Line) for approximately 22 minutes to "Jōruriji-mae" bus stop. The temple is just a short walk from the bus stop. Alternatively, on selected weekends and holidays in spring and autumn, a special pilgrimage bus runs directly from JR Nara Station and Kintetsu Nara Station.

The approach to the temple passes through a charming lane lined with small restaurants and shops selling local produce. The restaurant "Ashibino" near the temple gate is a popular choice, serving seasonal mountain cuisine including tofu, tororo (grated yam), and bamboo shoots in a rustic setting.