Joruriji Temple Main Hall (Kutaiji Temple Main Hall)

Joruri-ji Main Hall: The Last Surviving Nine-Amida Hall in Japan

Tucked away in the wooded hills of Kizugawa City at the southern edge of Kyoto Prefecture, Joruri-ji Temple (浄瑠璃寺) is one of Japan's most quietly magnificent cultural treasures. Known affectionately as Kutai-ji — "the Temple of Nine Statues" — it preserves the only remaining example of a nine-Amida Buddha hall from the Heian period (794–1185). While over thirty such halls once graced the Kyoto region, all have been lost to fire, war, and time — except this one. Here, nine gilded Amida Nyorai statues still sit in solemn rows exactly as they did over 900 years ago, gazing westward across a paradise garden toward the setting sun.

A History Spanning Nearly a Millennium

The origins of Joruri-ji are traditionally attributed to the celebrated monk Gyoki, who is said to have founded the temple at the request of Emperor Shomu in the 8th century. Historical records, however, point to a more certain date: in 1047 (Eisho 2), a monk named Gimei revived the temple and enshrined a statue of Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha). The temple's name derives from this deity — "Joruri" refers to the Eastern Pure Land of the Medicine Buddha, known as the Joruri World (浄瑠璃世界).

The current Main Hall was constructed in 1107 (Kasho 2) and relocated to its present position on the western shore of the temple pond in 1157 (Hogen 2). This move was part of a grand redesign that arranged the entire precinct as a physical representation of the Buddhist cosmos: the Main Hall with its nine Amida Buddhas to the west (symbolizing the Western Paradise), and the Three-Storied Pagoda with its Yakushi Nyorai to the east (symbolizing birth and the earthly realm), with a sacred pond between them representing the ocean separating this world from paradise.

Why Is the Main Hall a National Treasure?

Joruri-ji's Main Hall was designated a National Treasure in 1952, and for compelling reasons. During the late Heian period, a fervent belief in Amida Buddha and the Western Pure Land swept through Japanese aristocratic society. Inspired by the concept of "kubon ojo" — nine grades of rebirth described in the Contemplation Sutra — wealthy patrons commissioned halls to enshrine nine Amida statues, each representing one of the nine levels of spiritual rebirth. The great Fujiwara no Michinaga built the first such hall in 1020, and historical records document over thirty more.

Yet of all these magnificent halls, only Joruri-ji's survives. What makes it additionally remarkable is its origin: unlike most nine-Amida halls commissioned by emperors and powerful aristocrats, this one was built by local provincial patrons — making it a rare window into the devotion of the broader population during this period.

The architecture itself is strikingly simple. The building stretches eleven bays wide and four bays deep, with a gently sloping hipped roof now covered in traditional tile (originally cypress bark). Decorative bracket complexes, common in grander temples, are almost entirely absent — only simple boat-shaped brackets appear at the corner pillars. The exposed timber ceiling (known as "kesho yane-ura") reveals the honest beauty of the structural framework. At the center, the bay housing the principal image is notably wider and taller than the others, creating a subtle hierarchy within the hall's elongated silhouette.

The Nine Amida Buddha Statues — A National Treasure Ensemble

Inside the Main Hall, nine wooden statues of Amida Nyorai sit in a single majestic row along a continuous altar platform. These statues, all designated as National Treasures, represent the pinnacle of late Heian Buddhist sculpture.

The central image stands apart in both size and gesture. At 224 centimeters tall, it towers over the eight flanking statues (each between 139 and 145 centimeters). The central Amida displays the "raigo-in" mudra — right hand raised, left hand lowered — the welcoming gesture of a Buddha arriving to guide souls to paradise. The eight attendant statues, by contrast, all share the "Amida no jo-in" mudra, with hands folded serenely in the lap.

All nine statues are carved from Japanese cypress using the sophisticated "yosegi-zukuri" (joined woodblock) technique, finished with lacquer and gold leaf. During restoration work on the central statue, woodblock prints of Amida were discovered inside, believed to have been placed there at the time of creation. The repair of all nine statues was completed in 2023 after a five-year conservation project — the first major restoration in approximately 110 years — and they now stand together in their full glory once again.

The Pure Land Garden: A Paradise on Earth

The temple's garden is designated both a Special Place of Scenic Beauty and a Historic Site by the Japanese government — one of the few sites in the country to hold both designations simultaneously. The layout faithfully preserves the original Heian-period design of a "jodo-shiki teien" (Pure Land garden).

At its heart lies a sacred pond, said to be shaped like the Sanskrit letter "a" (the first syllable of Amida's name). On the western bank stands the Main Hall, embodying the Western Pure Land; on the eastern bank rises the vermillion Three-Storied Pagoda, representing the realm of Yakushi Nyorai and the world of the living. The pond between them symbolizes the vast ocean separating this world from the next.

The garden is breathtaking in every season: cherry blossoms and fresh green in spring, lotus flowers in summer, fiery maples reflected in the still pond in autumn, and a stark, contemplative beauty in winter. The celebrated writer Hori Tatsuo immortalized this scene in his essay "Spring at Joruri-ji," capturing the timeless tranquility that continues to enchant visitors today.

More National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties

Beyond the Main Hall, Joruri-ji harbors an extraordinary concentration of designated cultural assets. The Three-Storied Pagoda, also a National Treasure, was relocated from the Ichijo Omiya area in Kyoto in 1178. Its interior features vivid polychrome paintings from the Heian period, and it enshrines a secret image of Yakushi Nyorai (Important Cultural Property) that is shown to the public only on the 8th of each month in clear weather.

The Four Heavenly Kings statues (National Treasure) are celebrated for their remarkably well-preserved original coloring and "kirikane" (cut gold-leaf) decorative patterns. Two of the four — Jikokuten and Zochoten — remain in the Main Hall, while Komouten is entrusted to the Tokyo National Museum and Tamonten to the Kyoto National Museum.

The standing statue of Kichijoten (Important Cultural Property), enshrined in the Main Hall since 1212, is regarded as one of the most beautiful goddess images in all of Japanese Buddhist sculpture. This "hidden Buddha" is revealed only during limited periods: January 1–15, March 21–May 20, and October 1–November 30.

Exploring the Tono Stone Buddha Trail

Joruri-ji lies within the Tono district (当尾の里), a landscape steeped in centuries of Buddhist devotion. The area between Joruri-ji and nearby Gansen-ji Temple is threaded with ancient trails lined with stone Buddhas and carved cliff-face images dating from the Kamakura period (1185–1333). This "Sekibutsu no Michi" (Stone Buddha Path) stretches approximately 1.5 kilometers and offers an unforgettable hiking experience through forested hills and quiet hamlets.

Along the way, visitors encounter roadside stalls known as "tsuri-mise," where local farmers sell seasonal vegetables, handmade pickles, and fresh produce — a delightful glimpse into the area's enduring rural traditions. The rustic tea house "Ashibi-no-mise," located near Joruri-ji's entrance, serves mountain vegetables, handmade soba noodles, and local delicacies — perfect for refueling after a hike.

How to Visit: A Spiritual Journey Begins

Visitors are encouraged to follow the traditional pilgrimage route through the temple grounds. Enter through the gate and turn left toward the Three-Storied Pagoda on the eastern shore. Offer a prayer to Yakushi Nyorai within, then turn around to face west across the pond. The view of the Main Hall stretching horizontally beyond the still water, framed by ancient trees — this is the view of paradise that Heian-period devotees sought, and it remains profoundly moving today.

The temple grounds and exterior of the buildings can be explored free of charge. Entering the Main Hall to view the nine Amida statues requires an admission fee of 400 yen for adults and 150 yen for elementary school children. Photography policies should be confirmed on-site, as restrictions may apply within the hall.

Surrounding Attractions

The area around Joruri-ji offers rich opportunities for cultural exploration. Gansen-ji Temple (岩船寺), about 1.5 kilometers to the northeast, is known as the "Temple of Flowers" for its spectacular hydrangea and autumn foliage. The Minami Yamashiro region also boasts Kaijusen-ji Temple, home to an Important Cultural Property statue of Eleven-Headed Kannon, and the scenic tea fields of Wazuka, which produce some of Kyoto's finest green tea. Nara, with its world-famous temples and deer park, is easily accessible from this area as well.