Nakaroku Store

Nakaroku Shop: A Historic Eel Restaurant at the Gates of Izawa Shrine

Standing proudly before the torii gate of Izawa-no-miya—one of the most revered subsidiary shrines of Ise Grand Shrine—the Nakaroku Shop (中六店舗) is a remarkable wooden building that has served travelers and pilgrims for nearly a century. Built in 1929 as a traditional Japanese inn, this two-story structure was the first building in Shima City to receive national recognition as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Today it continues to welcome visitors as a beloved eel restaurant, offering a rare opportunity to savor exquisite unagi cuisine within the walls of a living cultural heritage site.

Historical Background

The history of Nakaroku stretches back to the Edo period, when it operated as a ryokan (inn) serving pilgrims visiting Izawa-no-miya. The establishment's name derives from Nakaroku Dayū, an oshi (pilgrimage guide) who served at Izawa Shrine, reflecting the deep historical ties between the inn and the sacred site it faces.

Before the current structure was built in 1929, the building was traditionally reconstructed every twenty years in accordance with the Shikinen Sengū—the periodic rebuilding ceremony of Izawa Shrine, which mirrors the famous rebuilding cycle of Ise Grand Shrine itself. The 1929 building broke with this tradition, and instead of being rebuilt, it has been carefully maintained and repaired over the decades, preserving its early Shōwa-era character.

During the 1960s, the inn boasted eight guest rooms capable of accommodating 35 individual guests or 60 people in group settings, and offered entertainment facilities including television sets, mahjong, go, and shogi. It was during this era as a ryokan that Nakaroku gained renown for its charcoal-grilled eel dishes. The Isobe district of Shima City, where Nakaroku is situated, has long been celebrated for its eel cuisine, owing to the abundance of freshwater eels in the upper reaches of local rivers and the proximity of eel farms.

Designation as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property

On October 28, 2011, the Nakaroku Shop was officially registered as a national Registered Tangible Cultural Property (建造物), making it the very first building in Shima City to receive this prestigious designation. The registration certificate was formally presented to the building's owner by the Mayor of Shima City on November 25 of that same year.

The building was recognized for its architectural and historical significance as a representative example of early Shōwa-period commercial architecture in a shrine-front setting. Its open, inviting exterior design—intended to attract pilgrims and travelers—exemplifies the commercial architecture of Japan's monzen-machi (shrine gate towns). Together with the adjacent Shinbu Sanken Dōjō, which is also a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, the Nakaroku Shop contributes to the preservation of the historic streetscape fronting Izawa Shrine.

Architectural Highlights

The Nakaroku Shop is a wooden two-story building with a total floor area of 172 square meters. The roof features the elegant irimoya-zukuri (hip-and-gable) style with traditional san-gawara (pantile) tiling, arranged in an L-shaped configuration that adds visual dynamism to the structure. A small irimoya-roofed bay window extension on the first floor further enriches the building's exterior appearance.

The building presents its gable end toward Izawa Shrine, while the second floor features large sliding windows that create a light and open façade—a deliberate design choice to project an atmosphere of welcome and accessibility. This open, airy quality is described in official records as reflecting a conscious effort to attract visitors.

The first floor houses the entrance, kitchen, and service areas, while the second floor contains tatami-matted guest rooms, primarily arranged as eight-mat chambers. The interior retains much of its original ryokan character, allowing diners to enjoy their meals in a traditional Japanese setting with views of Izawa Shrine's greenery from the upstairs windows.

Visitor Information

Today, Nakaroku operates as an eel restaurant specializing in unadon (eel rice bowls). The menu is elegantly simple: diners choose the number of eel slices they wish to enjoy—three, four, or five pieces. Each bowl features eel grilled whole over bamboo charcoal without skewers, achieving a crispy exterior and tender interior. The sauce is a sweet, rich tare that has been continuously replenished and refined over generations. The rice is prepared in the mabushi style, with the tare mixed into the rice before the eel is placed on top. Each order comes with pickles and a savory kimo-sui (eel liver soup).

The restaurant is open from approximately 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM. The establishment observes irregular holidays, so advance telephone confirmation is highly recommended. All meals are served in traditional tatami-seated rooms. Parking is limited to two spaces behind the restaurant; visitors are encouraged to use the Izawa Shrine parking lot and to pay their respects at the shrine during their visit.

The nearest station is Kaminogō Station on the Kintetsu Shima Line, approximately five minutes on foot. By car, the restaurant is about ten minutes from the Shiraki Interchange on the Daini Ise Road, along National Route 167.

Surrounding Attractions

Izawa-no-miya (Izawa Shrine) stands directly adjacent to the Nakaroku Shop. This subsidiary shrine of the Inner Shrine of Ise Grand Shrine is revered as the Ichinomiya (highest-ranking shrine) of the former Shima Province. Its Otaue-sai rice-planting festival, held annually on June 24, is designated as a national Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property and ranks among Japan's three greatest rice-planting festivals. The shrine grounds feature the famous kinchaku-gusu, a uniquely shaped camphor tree.

The Shinbu Sanken Dōjō, a kendo training hall also registered as a Tangible Cultural Property, stands next to the Nakaroku Shop, forming an evocative historical ensemble along the shrine approach. For those interested in the broader cultural heritage of the area, the Shima City Museum of History and Folklore in Isobe-chō Hazama houses archaeological artifacts and cultural materials from across the Shima Peninsula.

The wider Shima region offers spectacular coastal scenery, including the Yokoyama Observatory with panoramic views of Ago Bay, the historic Daio-saki and Anori-saki lighthouses (both Registered Tangible Cultural Properties), and Shima Spain Village theme park. The area is also celebrated for its seafood, pearl culture heritage, and the living traditions of ama divers.