Onsen Onyado Ryugon Main Building (former Matsuzaki Family

Ryugon Main Hall (Former Matsuzaki Residence): A Living Cultural Heritage in Niigata's Snow Country

Nestled at the foot of Mount Sakado in Minamiuonuma City, Niigata Prefecture, the Ryugon Main Hall — officially registered as the Former Matsuzaki Family Residence Main Building (温泉御宿龍言本館・旧松崎家住宅主屋) — stands as an exceptional example of the region's traditional upper-class farmhouse architecture. Originally built during the early Meiji period (estimated 1868–1882), this single-story wooden structure was relocated from the nearby community of Yoshizato in 1969 and now serves as the centerpiece of ryugon, one of Japan's most celebrated heritage hot spring hotels. Registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in May 2018, the building beautifully preserves the architectural traditions of Niigata's snow country while welcoming guests from around the world.

Historical Background

The story of Ryugon is deeply intertwined with the history of the Sengoku (Warring States) period. The inn takes its name from Ryugonji Temple, which once stood on this very site as a sub-temple of the renowned Untoan Temple. Ryugonji was associated with Nagao Masakage, a powerful warlord who served as the deputy of the legendary Uesugi Kenshin. Masakage was also the father of Uesugi Kagekatsu and brother-in-law to Kenshin himself. His castle, Sakado Castle, loomed over the area from the mountain that still provides a breathtaking backdrop for the inn. Near the grounds, visitors can find the grave of Nagao Masakage and a memorial tower dedicated to Naoe Kanetsugu, the celebrated retainer of the Uesugi clan who was featured in the 2009 NHK Taiga drama "Tenchijin."

The main building itself was originally the residence of the Matsuzaki family, a prosperous farming household in the Yoshizato district of Minamiuonuma. When the building was relocated to its current site in 1969 (Showa 44), it became the cornerstone of the Ryugon inn, which soon gained renown as a venue for prestigious events including Shogi Ryuo title matches and Go championship tournaments. In 2019, the inn underwent a comprehensive renovation and rebranding as "ryugon," blending its historic character with contemporary comfort. This transformation earned the facility a Good Design Award in 2023.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

On March 9, 2018, the National Council for Cultural Affairs recommended the registration of the Ryugon Main Hall as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building), and it was officially registered on May 10, 2018. The designation recognizes the building's significance on several grounds.

The structure is a quintessential example of the chumon-zukuri (中門造) architectural style, which is characteristic of the snow country regions of Niigata and northern Japan. In this style, a gabled wing called a "chumon" projects perpendicularly from the main ridgeline of the house, both at the front and rear. This design was developed as a practical response to the region's extreme snowfall, allowing residents to enter and exit the building even when snow piled several meters high around the walls.

The interior layout preserves the classic arrangement of an upper-class farmhouse: beside the entrance in the front chumon, a spacious hall (hiroma) with impressively high ceilings opens up, and beyond it, two formal tatami-floored reception rooms (zashiki) are arranged one behind the other, separated by an intermediary room (ainoma). Although the building has been repurposed as a hotel, both its exterior form and interior spatial arrangement faithfully retain the characteristics of a wealthy agricultural household of this region, making it an invaluable record of rural Meiji-era life in the snow country.

Architectural Highlights and Attractions

The Ryugon Main Hall covers a building area of 218 square meters, with a single-story wooden frame structure topped by a metal-sheet roof. Its most striking feature is the chumon-zukuri form — the projecting gabled wings at front and rear give the building a distinctive cross-shaped footprint that immediately identifies it as a product of snow country building traditions.

Inside, the massive exposed beams and pillars showcase the craftsmanship of Meiji-era carpenters working with local timber. The high-ceilinged hiroma (great hall) near the entrance creates an impressive sense of space, while the formal zashiki rooms beyond offer a more intimate atmosphere befitting their original use for receiving important guests. During the 2019 renovation, a modern white irori (hearth) was installed in the reception area, where it provides warmth from autumn through spring and serves as a gathering point for guests.

The building sits within approximately 13,000 square meters (about 4,000 tsubo) of grounds that include a stunning Japanese garden with ponds fed by a natural spring known as Ryujin-ike (Dragon God Pond). This spring has been flowing since the time of Ryugonji Temple and serves a dual purpose in winter — the water channels help melt the snow that slides off the roofs, a clever adaptation to the region's heavy snowfall. The garden is designed to frame views of Mount Sakado as "borrowed scenery" (shakkei), creating a seamless visual connection between the architecture and the surrounding landscape.

Muikamachi Onsen and the Hot Spring Experience

Ryugon draws its hot spring water from the Muikamachi Onsen, which has been designated a National Health Resort Hot Spring (Kokumin Hoyo Onsenchi) by Japan's Ministry of the Environment. The hot spring was discovered in 1957 when abundant thermal water erupted during exploratory drilling for natural gas. The water is classified as a sodium-chloride spring (low-tension, mildly alkaline, high-temperature) with a pH of 7.6 and a source temperature of 52.9°C.

Guests can enjoy the hot spring in several settings: a large communal bath housed in a charming converted rice storehouse with an earthen-wall (dozō) construction, outdoor baths overlooking the garden, private reservation-only baths, and in-room open-air baths available in select villa accommodations. A sauna facility was added in 2023, complementing the traditional bathing experience.

Snow Country Gastronomy and Cultural Experiences

Ryugon's dining philosophy centers on "Snow Country Gastronomy" — a culinary approach rooted in the traditional foodways of the Uonuma region. The cuisine features wild mountain vegetables, preserved foods developed over centuries to sustain communities through long winters, and the world-famous Minamiuonuma Koshihikari rice, widely regarded as the finest rice in Japan. Meals are presented as full-course Japanese dining that showcases the depth and ingenuity of snow country food culture.

Beyond dining, the inn offers various cultural experience programs including guided walking tours of Muikamachi town, traditional cooking workshops using a kamado (traditional wood-fired stove), visits to local sake breweries, and seasonal activities that range from snowshoeing in winter to mountain hiking in summer. A thirty-minute climb up nearby Mount Sakado rewards early risers with spectacular views of the sea of clouds (unkai) that frequently forms over the Uonuma Plain.

Visitor Information

Ryugon is located in Minamiuonuma City, Niigata Prefecture, and is accessible by train from Tokyo in approximately two hours. From Tokyo Station, take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo-Yuzawa Station, where a complimentary shuttle bus (reservation required) departs from HATAGO Isen, located in front of the station's west exit, and arrives at ryugon in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, Muikamachi Station on the JR Joetsu Line and Hokuetsu Express Hokuhoku Line is about 20 minutes on foot or 5 minutes by taxi from the inn. For drivers, the property is approximately 10 minutes from the Muikamachi Interchange on the Kanetsu Expressway.

Check-in begins at 3:00 PM and check-out is at 12:00 PM noon. Room types include Classic rooms in the renovated heritage buildings, Villa Suite rooms in newly constructed pavilions set within the garden, and Private Villa whole-house rentals. A lounge service with complimentary drinks and light refreshments is available throughout the day, and the ryugon café offers specialty coffee made with hot spring water alongside handcrafted sweets.

Surrounding Attractions

The area around ryugon is rich in historical and natural attractions. Mount Sakado, rising directly behind the inn, is the site of Sakado Castle ruins, a National Designated Cultural Property that once served as the stronghold of Nagao Masakage. The mountain offers accessible hiking trails and rewards visitors with panoramic views, especially during the spring sea-of-clouds season from April to May.

Untoan Temple, one of the most important Zen temples in the region, is located nearby and is closely connected to the Uesugi clan's history. The sacred Mount Hakkai (1,778 m) offers both spiritual pilgrimage routes and dramatic mountain scenery, accessible in part by ropeway. In summer, the Uwanohara Iris Garden displays 8,000 irises across 100 varieties, while the Minamiuonuma area is home to numerous ski resorts in winter, including Muikamachi Hakkaisan and Ishiuchi Maruyama. Local sake breweries, including those producing the renowned Hakkaisan brand, offer tastings and tours year-round.