Otohoji Temple Three-Story Pagoda

Introduction

Rising gracefully among ancient cedar trees in the quiet town of Tainai, Niigata Prefecture, the Three-story Pagoda of Oppoji Temple (乙宝寺三重塔) stands as one of the finest examples of early Edo-period pure Japanese-style (junwayō) architecture in the Hokuriku and Echigo regions. Designated as a nationally Important Cultural Property, this elegant wooden pagoda has watched over the temple grounds for more than four centuries, its weathered timbers and perfectly balanced proportions embodying the refined aesthetic sensibility of traditional Japanese craftsmanship.

Oppoji Temple itself is one of Niigata Prefecture's most storied ancient temples, with a founding history stretching back to the year 736 during the Nara period. The temple is steeped in legend — from the sacred relic of the Buddha's left eye said to be enshrined within its grounds, to the famous tale of scripture-copying monkeys recorded in the classical literary collection Konjaku Monogatarishū. The Three-story Pagoda, a donation from the lord of Murakami Castle, crowns this remarkable site and offers visitors a rare encounter with architectural beauty and deep historical significance.

Historical Background

Oppoji Temple (乙宝寺, formally written as 乙寶寺) was founded in 736 (Tenpyō 8) by imperial decree of Emperor Shōmu. The monks Gyōki and the Indian Brahman priest Bodhisena (婆羅門僧正) are credited with establishing the temple to pray for peace and tranquility across the Hokuriku region. According to temple tradition, Bodhisena enshrined the left eye of Shakyamuni Buddha at this site, while the right eye was placed at a temple called Kōji (甲寺) in China — giving rise to the name Otoji (乙寺, literally "second temple"), which later evolved into Oppoji.

During the Heian period, Emperor Go-Shirakawa bestowed a golden reliquary tower upon the temple to house the sacred eye relic, and the character "hō" (宝, meaning "treasure") was added to the temple's name, creating the current name Oppōji (乙宝寺). The temple also appears in famous literary works including the Konjaku Monogatarishū and the Kokon Chomonjū, where the legend of two monkeys who had sutras copied for them — and were subsequently reborn as humans — gave the temple its alternate name, Sarukuyōji (猿供養寺, "Monkey Memorial Temple").

The Three-story Pagoda was commissioned by Murakami Tadakatsu, the lord of Murakami Castle (Suō no Kami), with construction beginning in 1614 (Keichō 19) and reaching completion in 1620 (Genna 6). The consecration ceremony was conducted under the auspices of Hori Naoyori, the subsequent lord of Murakami Castle. The master carpenter was Kojima Ōmi no Kami Fujiwara Yoshimasa from Kyoto. An inscription on the nine-ringed finial (kurin) at the top of the pagoda records a restoration carried out during the Jōkyō era (1684–1687).

In the modern era, the pagoda was designated as a Specially Protected Structure (特別保護建造物) on March 28, 1923, and subsequently reclassified as a nationally Important Cultural Property (国指定重要文化財) on August 29, 1950. A comprehensive dismantlement and restoration was carried out between 1951 and 1953, faithfully returning the pagoda to its original appearance.

Why It Was Designated as an Important Cultural Property

The Oppoji Three-story Pagoda holds exceptional value as a representative example of early Edo-period pagoda architecture executed entirely in the pure Japanese style (junwayō). Unlike many pagodas of the same era that incorporated decorative elements from Chinese Zen (karayō) or Indian (tenjikuyō) architectural traditions, this pagoda deliberately eschews ornate carved details, painted embellishments, and elaborate bracket complexes (esama chōkoku). The result is a structure of remarkable simplicity and elegance.

The pagoda stands approximately 24.2 meters tall and features a cypress-bark (kokerabuki) roof — a traditional roofing method that contributes to its graceful silhouette. The proportions of the three tiers are masterfully balanced, creating a sense of solemn grandeur while maintaining a harmonious visual rhythm. The aged wooden surfaces, free of paint or lacquer, display a natural beauty that deepens with time and complements the surrounding grove of ancient cedar trees.

As one of only two three-story pagodas remaining in Niigata Prefecture (the other being at Gochi Kokubunji Temple in Jōetsu City), this pagoda is also regionally significant. It serves as an important document of the patronage network between the Murakami domain lords and the religious institutions of Echigo Province during the transition from the Sengoku period to the early Edo period.

Architectural Highlights and Attractions

The pagoda's most striking feature is its restrained beauty. Every element — from the precisely proportioned eaves to the slender central pillar — reflects a commitment to structural harmony over surface decoration. Inside the pagoda, a statue of Fugen Bosatsu (Samantabhadra Bodhisattva) is enshrined, adding a devotional dimension to the architectural experience.

Beyond the pagoda itself, the temple grounds of Oppoji encompass approximately 25,000 tsubo (about 8.3 hectares) and contain numerous structures of historical interest:

• Dainichi-dō (Main Hall): The current hall, rebuilt in 1983, houses the principal image of Dainichi Nyorai (Mahāvairocana) and serves as the center of worship and ceremonies. Beneath it lies the Treasure Hall (Hōmotsuden).
• Benten-dō: A small hall built on a tiny island in a pond near the approach path, rebuilt in 1668 (Kanbun 8). It is designated as a Niigata Prefectural Cultural Property and features vivid polychrome paintings of bamboo groves inside that retain characteristics of the Momoyama period.
• Rokkaku-dō (Hexagonal Hall): The location where Bodhisena is said to have originally enshrined the left eye of Shakyamuni Buddha.
• Niō-mon (Deva Gate): The temple gate housing guardian statues traditionally attributed to Gyōki. It was renovated in 1745, reportedly incorporating timbers from the original Nara-period main hall.
• Treasure Hall (Hōmotsuden): Located in the basement of Dainichi-dō, it displays the golden reliquary said to contain the Buddha's left eye, Kamakura-period Buddhist statues, the bark scripture said to have been copied for the legendary monkeys, and palanquins used by the Murakami lords. Admission is 300 yen for adults.
• Dokkon-sui (Sacred Spring Water): According to legend, the great monk Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi) struck the ground with his ritual vajra implement (tokko), causing pure water to spring forth. This water, actually an underground stream from the Iide Mountain Range, has flowed continuously for over 1,200 years and is still used by local residents today.
• Kinoto-zakura (Oppoji Cherry Tree): A rare variety of double-petaled cherry tree unique to this temple, designated as a natural monument by Tainai City. Its blossoms and leaves emerge simultaneously, creating an unusually elegant appearance.

During cherry blossom season, the Three-story Pagoda is illuminated at night, appearing to glow golden against the dark sky — a sight of extraordinary beauty that draws visitors from across the region.

Connection to Matsuo Bashō and Literary Heritage

The celebrated haiku poet Matsuo Bashō visited Oppoji Temple during his famous Oku no Hosomichi (Narrow Road to the Deep North) journey in 1689. A stone monument bearing his verse stands near the steps leading to the Kannon-dō hall on the temple grounds, commemorating the poet's impressions of this northern sanctuary. Bashō's companion Kawai Sora also recorded their visit in his travel journal, adding to the temple's literary significance.

Visitor Information

Oppoji Temple welcomes visitors year-round. The temple grounds, including the Three-story Pagoda and Dainichi-dō, are open for free exploration. The Treasure Hall (Hōmotsuden) is located in the basement of Dainichi-dō and can be visited with an admission fee. Guided explanations by a monk are available for groups with advance reservation.

Hours: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (extended hours during New Year's)

Treasure Hall Admission: Adults 300 yen / High school students and younger 200 yen (group discounts available for 30 or more)

Treasure Hall Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM

Goshuin (Temple Seal): Available at the reception inside Dainichi-dō (300 yen). Oppoji is part of several pilgrimage circuits including the Echigo Sanjūsan Kannon (26th temple) and the Echigo Yakushi (22nd temple).

Access

By car: Approximately 1 minute from the Arakawa-Tainai IC on the Nihonkai-Tōhoku Expressway. Approximately 20 minutes from the Nakajō IC. Free parking is available on-site.

By train: Take the JR Uetsu Main Line to Hiraikida Station (closest station), then approximately 10 minutes by car or taxi. Alternatively, from Nakajō Station, approximately 15 minutes by car or taxi.

Surrounding Attractions

The area around Oppoji Temple offers several additional experiences for visitors:

• Dokkon-sui Spring: Located within walking distance of the temple (about 440 meters), this natural spring of pure underground water from the Iide Mountains has been beloved by locals for centuries. Visitors can taste and take home this refreshingly clean water.
• Otomanjū-ya: A historic Japanese confectionery shop established in 1804, located just outside the temple gate. Famous for its traditional steamed sake manjū buns made with naturally fermented rice koji, as well as crispy deep-fried manjū.
• Tainai Kōgen Beer Brewery: A local craft brewery offering tours and tastings of beer brewed with water from the Tainai highlands. Approximately 20 minutes by car from the temple.
• Oku-Tainai Gorge: A spectacular valley along the Tainai River sourced from the Iide Mountains, offering breathtaking scenery especially during autumn foliage season. A perfect day-trip destination combined with the temple visit.
• Tainai Tulip Festival: Held annually in spring (typically early to mid-May), this festival showcases vast fields of colorful tulips. Tainai City is one of Niigata Prefecture's leading tulip-producing areas.