A Scholar's Treasure: The 1,100-Year-Old Tortoiseshell and Ivory Comb of Sugawara no Michizane

Discover the exquisite tortoiseshell-decorated ivory comb at Dōmyōji Tenman-gū Shrine in Osaka. This National Treasure from the Heian period showcases Tang dynasty craftsmanship through five precious materials, while telling the poignant story of Japan's patron deity of learning.

Japan Has Only One National Treasure Comb—Sugawara no Michizane's "Tortoiseshell-Decorated Ivory Comb"

In Fujiidera City, Osaka, within a quiet residential neighborhood, rests Japan's only comb designated as a National Treasure. Named the "Taimaisō-Gegushi" (Tortoiseshell-Decorated Ivory Comb), this precious artifact was actually used by Sugawara no Michizane—beloved as the god of learning—over 1,100 years ago, making it a living witness to history.

Why Is This the Only National Treasure Comb?

While Japan has countless beautiful combs, only this single example has achieved National Treasure status. The reason lies in its composite value that transcends mere beauty.

First, its ownership is definitively established. Personal belongings from the Heian period with identified owners are extraordinarily rare. This comb is an exceptionally precious relic that can be confirmed with certainty as having been used by the historically significant figure Sugawara no Michizane.

Furthermore, its technical excellence is remarkable. The multi-layered decorative technique combining seven different materials—ivory body, hawksbill tortoiseshell, copper wire, lacquer mixed with gold powder, and dyed horn—demonstrates the highest standards of craftsmanship of that era.

A Miracle Preserving Tang Dynasty Aesthetics

The comb's design reflects the international aesthetic of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), which deeply influenced Japan at the time. Ironically, most Tang dynasty decorative arts have been lost in China, making Japanese artifacts like this globally important evidence of that era's culture.

On the surface of this small comb measuring just 10.1cm x 6.0cm, seven flower patterns are carved on both sides, with spindle-shaped designs on the ridge. The red and green lacquers applied beneath the tortoiseshell create ethereal color effects visible through the semi-transparent shell, testifying to the aesthetic sense and technical mastery of craftsmen 1,100 years ago.

Sugawara no Michizane—Journey to Becoming the God of Learning

Sugawara no Michizane (845-903) rose to become Minister of the Right as a Heian period scholar-statesman, but was exiled to Dazaifu in 901 due to political rivals' slander, dying in despair in 903. Subsequently, disasters and plagues struck the capital, and those who had wronged Michizane died one after another. This was feared as vengeance from Michizane's angry spirit, leading the court to deify him as "Tenjin-sama."

Today, students praying for exam success at approximately 12,000 Tenmangu shrines nationwide represent the modern face of faith born from this historical tragedy. Michizane's comb is precious material evidence of the daily life of a real person, not a mythologized being.

Men and Comb Culture in the Heian Period

While combs are often considered feminine accessories today, for Heian period aristocratic men, combs were essential grooming tools. They needed to arrange their long hair before donning formal court caps, and luxurious combs made from ivory or tortoiseshell served as status symbols indicating rank and cultivation.

In ancient Japan, each strand of hair was believed to contain spiritual power, and the act of combing hair was considered a sacred ritual for organizing spiritual energy. The word "kushi" (comb) itself shares etymology with "kushigi" (mysterious, mystical), indicating the spiritual importance of combs.

Visiting Guide to Domyoji Tenmangu

This precious National Treasure can only be viewed on limited days throughout the year. The main viewing days are the 25th of each month and weekends during the Plum Festival (February-March).

Access from central Osaka is surprisingly easy. Take the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line about 20 minutes from Namba or 15 minutes from Tennoji to Domyoji Station, then just a 3-minute walk. Admission is only ¥300 for adults—remarkably reasonable for viewing such a valuable cultural property.

Historical Exploration Combined with World Heritage Sites

Just kilometers from Domyoji Tenmangu lies the "Mozu-Furuichi Kofun Group," inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019. These massive keyhole-shaped burial mounds from the 3rd-6th centuries testify to ancient Japan's power and technology.

Additionally, Fujii-dera Temple, a 15-minute walk away, houses a National Treasure thousand-armed Kannon statue. Combined with Domyoji Tenmangu, visitors can experience over 1,500 years of Japanese history and culture in a luxurious half-day to full-day historical tour.

Deep Japanese Culture Embodied in Combs

In Japan, combs have continued to hold meaning beyond mere tools. During the Edo period, numerous artistic combs decorated with maki-e lacquer and mother-of-pearl inlay were created. This tradition lives on today in the ornate kanzashi hairpins used by maiko and geiko.

However, the restrained elegance and technical perfection of integrating seven materials in this tortoiseshell-decorated ivory comb remains unmatched even after 1,100 years. It represents a miraculous heritage embodying both the aesthetic of Japan's most international era and the turning point toward developing its unique culture.

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Q&A

QCan I view the Tortoiseshell-Decorated Ivory Comb anytime?
ANo, viewing days are limited. Main public viewing days are the 25th of each month and weekends during the Plum Festival (February-March). We recommend confirming with Domyoji Tenmangu (Tel: +81-72-953-2525) before visiting.
QIs photography allowed?
APhotography is generally permitted on shrine grounds, but likely prohibited inside the Treasure Hall to protect the National Treasures. Please follow on-site instructions.
QAre English guides available for foreign tourists?
AEnglish support is limited. We recommend using translation apps and preparing important Japanese phrases in advance. You can also inquire about English guide services at the Fujiidera City tourist information office.
QWhy is this the only National Treasure comb?
AMultiple factors: It's Japan's only National Treasure comb, a confirmed relic of the historically important Sugawara no Michizane, demonstrates rare Tang-style craftsmanship, and provides direct evidence of aristocratic culture from over 1,100 years ago.
QHow long does it take to visit Domyoji Tenmangu?
ATreasure Hall viewing takes 30-45 minutes, the entire shrine 1-2 hours, or 2-3 hours including the plum garden. Including nearby kofun and temples creates a half-day to full-day course.

Basic Information

Name Taimaisō-Gegushi (Tortoiseshell-Decorated Ivory Comb)
Category National Treasure - Craft
Period Heian Period (9th century)
Dimensions Length 10.1cm, Height 6.0cm
Materials Ivory, tortoiseshell, copper wire, colored lacquer, gold powder, dyed horn
Location Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine, Fujiidera City, Osaka
National Treasure Designation March 31, 1953
Public Viewing 25th of each month, weekends during Plum Festival, and other select days

References

Last verified: 2025.10.07