Toyama Prefecture: Heritage in Solitude & Snowmelt Springs — Zuiryuji Temple and Kurobe Gorge Onsen
Hi, I'm Daichi Arima. I work at a local tourism board and I'm studying to become a certified Onsen Sommelier. Today, I'll introduce you to a Toyama journey that blends culture and nature through the lens of hot springs.
Kaga Clan's Prayer Hall: Takaokazan Zuiryuji Temple
Our journey begins at Zuiryuji Temple in Takaoka City, just a 10-minute walk from JR Takaoka Station. Despite its convenient location, the moment you step into the temple grounds, you're enveloped in a timeless silence.
Zuiryuji is a Soto Zen Buddhist temple built by the 3rd lord of the Kaga Domain, Maeda Toshitsune, to honor his predecessor, the 2nd lord Maeda Toshinaga. In 1997, the sanmon gate, Buddha hall (butsuden), and dharma hall (hatto) were designated as Toyama Prefecture's first National Treasures. It's one of the few places in Japan where the early Edo-period Zen monastic layout remains almost perfectly intact.
Visit Flow and Time Required
Allow 40-60 minutes for your visit. Walking from the sanmon gate through the butsuden to the hatto, you'll experience the beauty of the "shichido garan" (seven-hall temple layout) arranged in a straight line. The carved transoms in the Buddha hall and the serene space enclosed by corridors are particularly impressive.
Visitor Etiquette and Guidelines
- Remove hats inside the halls and maintain a quiet atmosphere
- Do not touch Buddhist statues or ritual implements
- Flash photography is prohibited. Follow on-site guidance for permitted photography areas
- If services or ceremonies are in progress, please be considerate and avoid disruption
- No eating, drinking, or smoking inside the halls
Admission: Adults ¥500, Junior/Senior High School Students ¥200, Elementary School Students ¥100. Open 9:00-16:30 (until 16:00 from December 10 to January 31).
Kurobe Gorge Trolley Train to Wilderness
Carrying the temple's serenity in our hearts, we head to Kurobe Gorge next. From Takaoka Station via Toyama Station to Unazuki Onsen Station takes about 1.5 hours by train.
At Unazuki Station, transfer to the Kurobe Gorge Trolley Train. Riding in open-air carriages along the Kurobe River, the train itself is a major attraction. The scenery changes with seasons—fresh greenery in spring, autumn foliage, and during the spring snowmelt season I experienced, the powerful roar of the abundant Kurobe River creates a breathtaking spectacle.
Trolley Train Reservations and Attire
- Advance reservations recommended during peak seasons (Golden Week, autumn foliage)
- One-way journey takes approximately 1 hour 20 minutes (Unazuki to Keyakidaira)
- Open-type regular cars are exposed to strong winds; bring a jacket or fleece
- Many tunnels cause sudden darkness; families with small children should note this
- Round-trip use is common (explore Keyakidaira, then return on the same train)
Operating period: Late April to late November. Closed in winter. Round-trip fare: Adults ¥3,960 (Unazuki-Keyakidaira).
Unazuki Onsen: Bathing with Gorge Views
After savoring the spectacular views of Kurobe Gorge, it's time for onsen. Unazuki Onsen is a hot spring resort town along the Kurobe River, where many accommodations feature outdoor baths overlooking the gorge.
Spring Quality and Traditional Benefits
Unazuki Onsen's source comes from Kuronagi Onsen, with a spring quality of weakly alkaline simple thermal water. Colorless and transparent with a soft texture, it's cherished as a "beauty bath." Traditionally, it has been believed to help with nerve pain, muscle pain, joint pain, and fatigue recovery.
Bathing Steps (For Beginners)
- In the changing room: Secure valuables in lockers. Bring two towels (large and small)
- Kakeyu (pre-bath rinse): Upon entering the bath area, pour hot spring water over your body 5-6 times to acclimate
- Wash your body: Before entering the tub, wash your body and hair
- First bath: Initially, soak up to your shoulders for 3-5 minutes
- Rest: Take a 5-10 minute break on a chair in the bath area or in the changing room
- Second bath: Once acclimated, bathe again for 5-10 minutes
- Final rinse: Lightly rinse with water (optional if you want to retain the mineral coating)
Safety Precautions
- Always drink a glass of water before and after bathing
- Bathing after alcohol consumption is dangerous. Avoid for 2 hours before/after bathing
- Don't stay in too long. Keep each session to 10-15 minutes
- If you feel dizzy or lightheaded, exit immediately and rest in a cool area
- Those with heart conditions or high blood pressure should try half-body bathing
Tattoo Policy
Policies vary by facility. At Unazuki Onsen, small tattoos can often be covered with special stickers to allow bathing. For larger tattoos, private family baths are recommended. I advise checking with each facility in advance.
Photography Rules
Photography inside bathing areas is generally prohibited. Even if you want to photograph the view from outdoor baths, ensure no other bathers are in the frame. Some facilities allow photography during specific times—always confirm with the front desk first.
Half-Day Model Itinerary
9:00 Depart Takaoka Station for Zuiryuji Temple
9:30-10:30 Visit Zuiryuji Temple (approx. 60 minutes)
11:00 Depart Takaoka Station for Unazuki Onsen Station
12:30 Arrive Unazuki Onsen Station, lunch
13:30 Board trolley train
14:50 Arrive Keyakidaira Station, explore (approx. 30 minutes)
15:30 Depart Keyakidaira Station, return to Unazuki
16:50 Arrive Unazuki Onsen Station
17:00-18:00 Day-use bathing at hot spring facility
18:30 Enjoy post-bath refreshments
This itinerary assumes a day trip, but staying overnight at Unazuki Onsen allows you to enjoy bathing in the evening's tranquility and morning baths as well.
Post-Bath Pleasures
The hot spring town has footbath spots and restaurants using local ingredients. My recommendation is the classic "coffee milk" (coffee-flavored milk drink). That cold sweetness after bathing is exceptional. Whether you prefer plain milk or fruit milk, choose your favorite.
There are also shops selling Toyama's local sake, but please avoid alcohol 2 hours before and after bathing. Alcohol affects blood pressure and temperature regulation—this is an important safety rule.
Contrast of Stillness and Movement
The serene prayer space of Zuiryuji Temple and the overwhelming natural power of Kurobe Gorge. And the blessing of hot springs nurtured by this land. This journey offers a luxurious course to experience Toyama's multilayered charm in a single day.
Touching cultural heritage passed down from the Edo period, being overwhelmed by the gorge beauty carved by the Japan Alps, and entrusting your body to waters springing from that earth. I believe this contrast is the essence of Toyama's hot spring journey.
Access Information
- Takaoka Station: JR Hokuriku Shinkansen, JR Himi Line, JR Johana Line
- Unazuki Onsen Station: Toyama Chiho Railway Main Line (approx. 60 minutes by limited express from Toyama Station)
- By rental car: approx. 20 minutes from Hokuriku Expressway "Kurobe IC" to Unazuki Onsen
Best Seasons
- Spring (late April-May): Powerful gorge with snowmelt water, fresh greenery
- Autumn (late October-mid November): Spectacular autumn foliage
- Summer (June-August): Seeking coolness
- Winter: Trolley train closed; quiet journey with onsen and Zuiryuji Temple recommended
I encourage you to experience Toyama's hot spring journey where stillness and movement, culture and nature interweave. Safety first, and enjoy your pleasant bathing time.
FAQ
Q1: Is it possible to visit Zuiryuji Temple, the trolley train, and hot springs in one day?
A: Yes, it's possible. Following the model itinerary above, you can enjoy all three as a day trip. However, planning around the trolley train schedule is essential. Reservations are recommended during peak seasons. For a more relaxed schedule, staying overnight at Unazuki Onsen allows you to enjoy morning baths and the quiet evening hot spring town atmosphere.
Q2: I have tattoos. Can I use Unazuki Onsen?
A: Policies vary by facility. For small tattoos, some facilities allow bathing if you cover them with special stickers. For larger tattoos, private baths (family baths) are recommended. I advise checking directly with accommodation or day-use bathing facilities in advance. Many establishments offer flexible accommodations, so don't hesitate to inquire.
Q3: Is the trolley train cold? What clothing should I wear?
A: Open-type regular cars have very strong winds. Especially in early spring and autumn, it gets quite cold, so definitely bring a windbreaker or fleece. Even in summer, the gorge is cool. Hats and sunglasses are useful, but be careful they don't blow away. For those concerned about cold, the windowed Relax cars (reservation required, additional fee) are recommended.
Q4: What should I be careful about when bathing in hot springs?
A: For safety, please note the following:
- Always hydrate before and after bathing (one glass of water)
- Avoid bathing within 2 hours of alcohol consumption
- Keep each bathing session to 10-15 minutes
- Exit immediately if you feel dizzy or lightheaded
- Half-body bathing is recommended for those with heart concerns
- Bath floors are slippery—watch your step
For first-timers, I recommend starting with short sessions and gradually acclimating your body.
Q5: Can I take photos at Zuiryuji Temple?
A: There are permitted and restricted areas. Flash photography is prohibited. Also, refrain from photography during services or ceremonies. Check signage within the grounds or inquire at reception. Please do not touch Buddhist statues or ritual implements. Be considerate of other visitors and maintain a quiet atmosphere during your visit.