National Treasure Saibara-fu: Preserving Heian Period Musical Entertainment

Japan's National Treasure "Saibara-fu" (催馬楽譜) is the oldest surviving musical manuscript in Japan, created in the mid-11th century. This precious score documents Saibara, a beloved court song genre of the Heian period, serving as a unique testament to the elegant musical culture enjoyed by aristocrats of that era. Housed in the Chokokan Museum in Saga Prefecture, this National Treasure occupies an extremely important position in Japanese music history.

Saibara: From Folk Songs to Court Music

Saibara originally consisted of folk songs and popular tunes sung by common people across various regions. One theory suggests these originated as work songs sung while leading horses laden with rice and other tributes to the capital. These simple melodies captured the hearts of Heian period aristocrats, who transformed them into sophisticated court music by adding accompaniment from gagaku instruments.

Reaching its peak between the 9th and 10th centuries, Saibara became immensely popular as entertainment music performed at court banquets and celebrations. Accompanied by gagaku instruments including the sho (mouth organ), hichiriki (double-reed pipe), ryuteki (dragon flute), biwa (lute), and koto (zither), along with the shakubyoshi percussion instrument, nobles themselves enjoyed performing at musical gatherings called "gyo-yu."

Saibara appears in Lady Murasaki's "The Tale of Genji," featuring an memorable scene where the protagonist Prince Genji sings the Saibara song "Ise no Umi" on the beach at Akashi. For the aristocracy of that time, singing and performing Saibara was both a mark of cultivation and an essential element of social interaction.

Why It Became a National Treasure: Its Exceptional Value

The Saibara-fu was designated a National Treasure for multiple compelling reasons.

First, it is the oldest surviving musical score of Saibara. Dating from the mid-11th century, it serves as a primary source for directly understanding Heian period music.

Second, its exceptional calligraphic artistry. Written in elegant kaisho script using manyogana (ancient Japanese syllabary) on beautifully decorated paper with flying cloud patterns, it is believed to be the work of a master calligrapher of the Heian period. While traditionally attributed to Prince Munetaka (son of Emperor Go-Saga and the 6th Kamakura Shogun), it actually dates from the earlier 11th century.

Third, its completeness as a musical document. Including both ritsu and ryo modes of gagaku, it contains 24 ritsu poems and 36 ryo songs (with 3 missing) in a systematic arrangement, allowing us to understand the Saibara repertoire and music theory of the Heian period.

Fourth, its remarkable state of preservation. Even after approximately 1,000 years, the text and decorations remain clearly visible, testifying to the high level of craftsmanship of that era.

Chokokan Museum: Preserving the Treasures of the Nabeshima Family

The Chokokan Museum, which houses the Saibara-fu, is a historic museum located in Matsubara, Saga City. Established in 1927 by Nabeshima Naomitsu, the 12th head of the former Saga Domain lord Marquis Nabeshima family, it was Saga Prefecture's first museum. The building itself is designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.

The Nabeshima family ruled the 360,000-koku Saga Domain during the Edo period and became marquises in the Meiji era. Besides the Saibara-fu, the Chokokan houses numerous precious cultural properties passed down through the Nabeshima family, including the Important Cultural Property "Toasobi Kagura-uta." The museum is particularly rich in gagaku-related materials, as the 10th lord Nabeshima Naomasa and 11th lord Naotada were deeply devoted to gagaku. Naotada served as the first director of the Imperial Household Ministry's Music Department and contributed greatly to the revival of gagaku.

Access Information and Highlights

The Chokokan Museum can be reached in about 20 minutes on foot from JR Saga Station, or in about 10 minutes by bus (get off at "Kencho-mae" or "Saga Jinja-mae"). Opening hours are 9:30 AM to 4:00 PM, with the museum open only during exhibition periods. Since the National Treasure Saibara-fu is not on permanent display but shown during special exhibitions several times a year, we recommend checking the opening schedule in advance.

The Charm of Saga Tourism: Castle Town Atmosphere and Traditional Culture

The area around Chokokan is rich with historical attractions centered on the Saga Castle ruins.

Saga Castle Honmaru Historical Museum
About 10 minutes on foot from Chokokan. This facility reconstructs the Saga Castle Honmaru Palace rebuilt during the Tenpo period, boasting a scale of 2,500 square meters. It's a museum where you can learn about Saga Domain's history during the late Edo and Meiji Restoration periods, with free admission.

Saga Shrine
Located immediately adjacent to Chokokan, this shrine enshrines the 10th Saga lord Nabeshima Naomasa and 11th lord Naotada. The grounds have a quiet, peaceful atmosphere, and we recommend visiting the museum after paying your respects.

Saga Castle Town Hinamatsuri (Doll Festival)
A spring tradition in Saga held annually from February to March. Chokokan serves as one of the venues, displaying the dignified hina dolls passed down through the Nabeshima family. You can also enjoy hina dolls made with traditional crafts like Saga-nishiki and Nabeshima-komon patterns, offering a precious opportunity to experience Japanese traditional culture while touring buildings from the Edo to early Showa periods.

Saga City History and Folklore Museum
An area lined with historical buildings from the Meiji and Taisho periods, where you can visit structures like the Former Koga Bank and Former Sansho Bank with their retro atmosphere. With cafes and shops included, you can enjoy a leisurely stroll.

Saga's Food and Crafts

Local food culture is one of the pleasures of Saga tourism. You can savor dishes using ingredients nurtured by rich nature, including Saga beef, seafood from the Ariake Sea, and hot spring tofu. Traditional crafts such as Arita and Imari porcelain and Saga-nishiki textiles also make popular souvenirs.