Kitain Temple

Kitain Temple: The Last Surviving Palace of Edo Castle in Kawagoe

Nestled in the heart of Kawagoe — the city often called "Little Edo" — Kitain Temple (喜多院) stands as one of the most historically significant Buddhist temples in the Kanto region. Founded in 830 and bearing the formal name Seiyasan Muryojuji Kitain, this Tendai sect temple preserves a remarkable legacy spanning nearly 1,200 years. Most extraordinarily, Kitain houses the only surviving palace buildings from Edo Castle, making it a destination of unparalleled importance for anyone fascinated by samurai-era Japan.

With six structures designated as National Important Cultural Properties, over 500 expressive stone Rakan statues, and an adjacent Toshogu Shrine honoring the great shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, Kitain offers one of the richest cultural experiences available within easy reach of Tokyo.

A History Spanning Nearly 1,200 Years

Kitain Temple was established in 830 (Tencho 7) by the renowned monk Ennin (also known as Jikaku Daishi), on the orders of Emperor Junna. Originally named Muryojuji — after Amitabha, the Buddha of Infinite Life — the temple enshrined Amitabha Nyorai as its principal image, flanked by Fudo Myoo and Bishamonten. Over the following centuries, the temple grew to become the central institution of Tendai Buddhist scholarship in eastern Japan.

In 1296, the monk Sonkai rebuilt the temple after it had been destroyed by warfare, and Emperor Fushimi formally recognized it as the head temple of 580 Tendai temples in the eastern provinces. Emperor Gonara later bestowed the mountain name "Seiyasan" (Star Field Mountain), which the temple bears to this day.

The temple's golden age began in 1599 when the monk Tenkai — a trusted spiritual advisor to the Tokugawa shoguns — became the 27th head priest and renamed the temple "Kitain." Under Tenkai's leadership, the shogunate granted the temple vast lands of 48,000 tsubo and a stipend of 500 koku of rice, designating it the head temple of all Tendai Buddhism in the Kanto region.

Edo Castle Reborn: The Great Fire of 1638 and the Tokugawa Legacy

In 1638, a catastrophic fire swept through the entire city of Kawagoe, destroying all of Kitain's buildings except the main gate (Sanmon) and a sutra storehouse. Third Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu, who held the temple in deep reverence, immediately ordered its reconstruction. In a remarkable act of devotion, Iemitsu commanded that palace buildings from Edo Castle's Momijiyama compound be dismantled and transported to Kawagoe to serve as the temple's new guest hall, study, and kitchen quarters.

These relocated structures — the Kyakuden (Guest Hall), Shoin (Study), and Kuri (Kitchen) — are today the only surviving buildings from the original Edo Castle. The Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the air raids of World War II destroyed everything that remained in Tokyo, making Kitain's collection irreplaceable. The guest hall is celebrated for containing the room where Iemitsu himself is believed to have been born, while the study preserves the personal chambers of Kasuga-no-Tsubone, the powerful wet nurse of the young shogun.

Why Kitain Is Designated as a Cultural Property

Six buildings at Kitain have been designated as National Important Cultural Properties, reflecting both their exceptional historical significance and their architectural value as rare examples of early Edo-period construction.

• Kyakuden (Guest Hall) — Built in 1638 using materials from Edo Castle. Contains the "Iemitsu Birth Room" with ornate floral ceiling paintings of 81 panels and a raised dais with decorative shelving.
• Shoin (Study) — Also relocated from Edo Castle, this building features the "Kasuga-no-Tsubone Makeup Room," offering a rare glimpse into the private world of an influential woman of the Tokugawa court.
• Kuri (Kitchen Quarters) — A functional yet architecturally refined structure that completes the suite of Edo Castle palace buildings.
• Sanmon (Main Gate) — Constructed in 1632 by Tenkai, this is the oldest surviving structure at Kitain. It features carved tiger and lion motifs on its decorative bracket complexes.
• Shoromon (Bell Tower Gate) — Built in 1702, this vermilion-lacquered two-story gate houses a bronze bell and features vivid polychrome carvings of dragons on its front and hawks on its rear.
• Jigendo Hall — Built in 1645 to enshrine a wooden statue of the monk Tenkai (posthumously known as Jigen Daishi), this hall sits on a small hill beside the main worship hall.

These buildings collectively represent an invaluable record of early Edo-period architectural techniques and aristocratic design, preserving the aesthetics of the Tokugawa shogunate's most prestigious constructions.

Highlights and Attractions

Exploring the Surrounding Area

Kitain is ideally situated for a full day of exploring Kawagoe's remarkable heritage. The Kurazukuri (warehouse-style) historic district, designated as a National Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, is approximately a 10-minute walk away. The iconic Toki no Kane bell tower, sweet potato snack shops, and Kashiya Yokocho (Candy Lane) are all within easy walking distance. Nearby Nakain Temple, the "Middle Temple" of the original three-temple complex, offers a tranquil contrast with its famous weeping cherry tree and connections to the novelist Shimazaki Toson. Kawagoe Castle's Honmaru Goten, one of the few surviving castle palace buildings in Japan, is also just a short walk from the temple.