Ryokan Inaba: A Century-Old Wooden Hot Spring Inn on the Matsukawa River
In the heart of Ito Onsen, one of the Izu Peninsula's most beloved hot spring towns, a graceful three-story wooden inn rises from the southern bank of the Matsukawa River. Crowned by an unusual dome-shaped tower nicknamed the "aburazashi" (oil dropper), Ryokan Inaba has stood here for more than a hundred years. Together with its neighbor, the Tokaikan, it forms the most photographed silhouette of Ito's old townscape — a scene so cherished that the riverside vista has been honored among Shizuoka Prefecture's finest. Officially registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan in 1998, the building today welcomes guests from around the world as the historic guesthouse K's House Ito Onsen.
The History Behind the Building
Ryokan Inaba was built during the late Taisho era, sometime between 1912 and 1925, when the riverbanks of the Matsukawa were lined with grand wooden inns serving travellers drawn to the steaming waters of Ito Onsen. The original structure was raised by a member of the Inaba family — the same family that owned the neighbouring Tokaikan — and was first known as the Daitokan. As Ito's popularity grew, the building grew with it. Around 1929, the western end was extended and the distinctive tower was added; around 1937, a further third-floor expansion took place, giving the inn its present shape.
For most of the twentieth century the inn welcomed bathers, honeymooners, and writers seeking the quiet rhythms of the spa town. After serving the public for nearly a century, the ryokan closed its doors in 2007. Three years later, the building was carefully revived as a hostel, allowing the wooden architecture and free-flowing hot spring waters to continue welcoming travellers — this time from across the globe.
Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property
On September 2, 1998, the Agency for Cultural Affairs added Ryokan Inaba to the national register of Tangible Cultural Properties under the buildings category. The designation recognizes the inn as an outstanding surviving example of early-twentieth-century Japanese ryokan architecture. Inspectors highlighted three reasons in particular.
First, the building preserves a rare large-scale wooden ryokan plan, with three stories above ground, a basement level, and a tower — a configuration that has almost entirely vanished from Japan's hot spring towns due to fire, redevelopment, and changing tastes. Second, the construction relies on premium native timbers and the refined hand of skilled carpenters, with detailed interior craftsmanship including carved transoms, fine joinery, and meticulously finished ceilings. Third, together with the adjacent Tokaikan, Ryokan Inaba contributes to a rare townscape that captures the spirit of Taisho and early Showa hot spring culture, a heritage value reinforced by Shizuoka Prefecture's selection of the riverside district as a Grand Prize-winning landscape in 2002.
Highlights to Discover
The "Aburazashi" Tower
The most striking feature is the dome-capped tower rising above the western end of the roof, popularly called the aburazashi because its silhouette resembles an old-fashioned oil dispenser. Built around 1929 by a renowned local carpenter, it offers sweeping views of the river, the surrounding rooftops, and the hills of central Ito. The neighbouring Tokaikan has its own tower, and legend holds that the two owners once vied to build the taller spire — the playful rivalry that gave Ito its iconic skyline.
The Karahafu Entrance and Zelkova Floors
Guests arrive beneath an elegant karahafu — a curved gable roof with copper sheeting — decorated with carvings of sparrows alighting on rice ears, an auspicious motif. Inside, the entrance hall is floored with broad planks of polished zelkova wood, deepened in colour by a century of use. The grain of the timber and the warm glow of generations of polishing remain among the most quietly impressive sights in the building.
The 53-Tatami Great Hall
On the second floor, an enormous banquet room of 53 tatami mats opens up beneath a coffered ceiling. The central transom is filled with carvings by Morita Toko, a local sculptor whose work also appears in nearby buildings, while the alcove pillar is fashioned from a thick column of enju (Japanese pagoda tree). The space is grand without being austere, and visitors often pause here simply to take in the proportions.
Bunbuku Chagama Hot Spring Spouts
The bathhouse continues the building's playful character. Hot water flows into the tubs through spouts shaped like tanuki — Japanese raccoon dogs — sculpted by Morita Toko in reference to the Bunbuku Chagama folk tale of a magical tea kettle. The mineral-rich water itself is a calcium-sodium chloride spring, drawn fresh from a local source and served fully unrecycled.
Nineteen Rooms, Each Different
The building contains nineteen guest rooms, no two of which are decorated alike. Sliding shoji screens, snow-viewing windows facing the river, intricate wood lattices, and tile work in the communal washrooms all reward the curious eye. Guests today book the rooms as part of K's House Ito Onsen, which has retained the historic interiors with care.
Visitor Information
The building lies on the south bank of the Matsukawa, about a seven-minute walk from JR Ito Station on the JR Ito Line. From Tokyo Station the journey takes roughly one hour and forty minutes by limited express, or about two hours by combining the Tokaido Shinkansen via Atami with the Ito Line. Overnight stays are available through K's House Ito Onsen, which welcomes both Japanese and international travellers and offers public hot spring baths as well as a private reservation bath. While the building is primarily a working guesthouse, day-time hot spring bathing and informal interior viewing have been offered at certain times. Visitors are asked to confirm details directly with the property before arriving.
Around Ryokan Inaba
The Tokaikan stands directly next door and is open to the public as a city-run cultural facility, complete with hot spring bathing on weekends. A short stroll along the Matsukawa Promenade leads past the former Ito Police Station Matsubara Box, now serving as the Ito Tourism Information Office and itself a registered cultural property. The nearby Kinoshita Mokutaro Memorial Museum honours the Ito-born poet, novelist, and physician, while Ito Orange Beach lies a few minutes further on toward the sea. For travellers with more time, the Jogasaki Coast, the Omuro-yama crater, and the Izu Shaboten Zoological Park are all within easy reach by bus or train.
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Q&A
- Can I stay overnight at Ryokan Inaba?
- Yes. The building reopened in 2010 as K's House Ito Onsen, a heritage guesthouse offering tatami rooms and dormitories. The original ryokan ceased operations in 2007, but the wooden architecture and hot spring baths have been preserved.
- What makes the building's tower so famous?
- The dome-shaped tower is nicknamed "aburazashi" (oil dropper) for its distinctive silhouette. Constructed around 1929, it stands together with the Tokaikan's tower next door to form a townscape that has come to symbolize Ito Onsen.
- When was it designated a cultural property?
- It was registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan on September 2, 1998, under the buildings category, in recognition of its importance as a surviving example of large wooden ryokan architecture.
- How do I get there from Tokyo?
- Take the JR limited express "Odoriko" from Tokyo Station directly to Ito Station, or use the Tokaido Shinkansen to Atami and transfer to the JR Ito Line. From Ito Station the building is about a seven-minute walk along the Matsukawa River.
- Can I see the interior without staying overnight?
- The building is principally a working guesthouse, and access to the interior depends on availability and current operating policies. Travellers wishing to view the architecture are encouraged to confirm in advance with the property, or to admire the exterior from the public Matsukawa Promenade.
Basic Information
| Name | Ryokan Inaba |
|---|---|
| Location | 478 Higashimatsubara-cho, Ito City, Shizuoka Prefecture |
| Construction | Wooden, 3 stories above ground with 1 basement level and tower; tile roof; building area approximately 451 m² |
| Date of Construction | Late Taisho era (circa 1912-1925); tower added c. 1929; third-floor expansion c. 1937 |
| Designation | Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan (Buildings) |
| Date of Registration | September 2, 1998 |
| Current Use | Heritage guesthouse (K's House Ito Onsen) |
| Access | Approximately 7 minutes on foot from JR Ito Station (JR Ito Line) |
References
- Ryokan Inaba — Cultural Heritage Online (Agency for Cultural Affairs)
- https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/113564
- Ryokan Inaba — Ito City Official Website
- https://www.city.ito.shizuoka.jp/gyosei/soshikikarasagasu/shogaigakushuka/bunka_supotsu/2/2/1/2388.html
- List of Designated Cultural Properties — Ito City
- https://www.city.ito.shizuoka.jp/gyosei/soshikikarasagasu/shogaigakushuka/bunka_supotsu/2/2/1/2432.html
- K's House Ito Onsen — Official Website
- https://kshouse.jp/ito-j/index.html
- Former Ryokan Inaba — Suruga Bay Hundred Sights, Ito City Tourism Guide
- https://www.surugawan.net/guide/399.html
- K's House Ito Onsen — Suruga Bank Onsen Gourmet Tours
- https://onsen.surugabank.co.jp/higashiizu/8539.html
Last verified: 2026.04.30