Kunozan Toshogu Shrine

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine: The Original Resting Place of Tokugawa Ieyasu

Perched atop Mount Kuno overlooking Suruga Bay in Shizuoka City, Kunozan Toshogu Shrine holds a unique distinction in Japanese history — it is the place where Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Edo shogunate, was first buried following his death in 1616. While the more famous Nikko Toshogu often captures international attention, Kunozan Toshogu is where the story begins, and its collection of Important Cultural Properties offers a remarkably well-preserved window into the architectural splendor of early Edo-period Japan.

The shrine's precinct contains thirteen structures designated as Important Cultural Properties by the Japanese government, in addition to the main hall complex (honden, ishi-no-ma, and haiden) which received National Treasure status in 2010. This article focuses on those thirteen Important Cultural Properties: the Romon (tower gate), Shinkyū (sacred stable), Korō (drum tower), Jinko (sacred storehouse), Kaguraden (sacred dance hall), Shinsenjo (offering hall), Karamon (Chinese-style gate), Higashimon (east gate), Watarirō (connecting corridor), Tamagaki (jeweled fence), Byomon (mausoleum gate), the main hall of Hie Shrine (former Honjidō), and the Byōsho Hōtō (mausoleum pagoda tower).

Historical Background

Mount Kuno has been a place of spiritual significance since ancient times. During the Suiko period, a temple called Kunonji was established on the mountain. In the Sengoku era, the warlord Takeda Shingen recognized the mountain's strategic value and converted it into a fortification known as Kuno Castle, relocating the temple to a nearby site.

After the fall of the Takeda clan, the castle came under the control of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who regarded Kuno Castle as the inner citadel of his Sunpu Castle. Upon Ieyasu's death on the 17th day of the fourth month of 1616, his remains were interred on Mount Kuno in accordance with his final wishes. The second shogun, Tokugawa Hidetada, immediately ordered the construction of a shrine, which was completed in December 1617 — an astonishing feat accomplished in just nineteen months under the direction of master carpenter Nakai Yamato-no-kami Masakiyo.

The third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, later expanded the shrine complex by adding structures including the Romon gate, Kaguraden, drum tower (originally a bell tower), and the Yakushidō (now Hie Shrine). He also ordered the replacement of the original wooden mausoleum pagoda with the current stone tower in 1640. Initially called Tōshōsha, the shrine was granted the prestigious title of "gū" (shrine) in 1645 and became known as Tōshōgū.

Why These Buildings Are Designated as Important Cultural Properties

The thirteen structures of Kunozan Toshogu were designated as Important Cultural Properties at various points, with the earliest designations occurring in 1908 and 1912 under the Ancient Shrines and Temples Preservation Law. Their significance lies in several key areas.

First, they represent an exceptionally complete ensemble of early Edo-period shrine architecture. While many shrine complexes across Japan have lost buildings to fire, war, or the ravages of time, Kunozan Toshogu preserves virtually its entire original layout from the early seventeenth century.

Second, the buildings serve as a crucial link between the Momoyama period's exuberant decorative style and the more formal Edo-period aesthetic. The lavish use of polychrome lacquer, gold leaf, and intricate carvings reflects the artistic sensibilities of the transitional period.

Third, as the prototype for all subsequent Toshogu shrines built across Japan — numbering over five hundred at their peak — these structures are of immense architectural and historical importance in understanding how the Toshogu style developed and spread throughout the nation.

Highlights of the Important Cultural Properties

Romon (Tower Gate)

The Romon is the first major structure visitors encounter when ascending from the stone approach. Built in 1617, this two-story gate is resplendent in vermillion lacquer and features a blue plaque bearing the characters "Tōshō Daigongen" (Great Avatar of the Eastern Light), brushed by Emperor Go-Mizunoo. The central kaerumata (frog-leg strut) features a vividly painted baku — a mythical creature said to devour nightmares and symbolize peace. On the front, wooden statues of guardian figures (zuijin) stand watch, while gilt-bronze lion-dogs guard the rear.

Shinkyū (Sacred Stable)

Located just past the Romon, the Shinkyū once housed the sacred horse that served the enshrined deity. Ieyasu's beloved horse is said to have lived out its life here, faithfully guarding the main hall. Today, a white wooden horse statue attributed to the legendary craftsman Hidari Jingorō is housed within. The horse is believed to have been buried at the corner of the mausoleum's stone wall upon its death.

Korō (Drum Tower)

Originally constructed as a bell tower (shōrō), this structure was converted during the Meiji-era separation of Buddhism and Shinto. The bell was replaced with a drum, and the building was renamed the Korō. This adaptation allowed the structure to survive the anti-Buddhist movement that destroyed many shrine-temple amalgamation features across Japan.

Karamon (Chinese-Style Gate)

Standing directly before the worship hall, the Karamon is a four-legged gate with undulating karahafu (cusped gable) roof covered in copper tiles with black lacquer. Its paneled walls feature elaborate openwork carvings of lions with peonies, pine trees, and birds — motifs symbolizing prosperity and longevity.

Byōsho Hōtō (Mausoleum Pagoda Tower)

Perhaps the most spiritually significant structure in the complex, the Hōtō marks the actual burial site of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Reached by climbing approximately forty stone steps beyond the Byomon gate through a solemn avenue of stone lanterns donated by feudal lords, the tower stands 5.5 meters tall with a circumference of about 8 meters. Originally built of wood and cypress bark in 1616, it was rebuilt in stone by Iemitsu in 1640. The tower faces west by Ieyasu's specific command — aligned toward Hōraiji Temple where his parents prayed for his conception, Okazaki Castle where he was born, Daijuji Temple where the Matsudaira family rested, and beyond them all, toward Kyoto.

Massha Hie Jinja Honden (Former Honjidō)

This subsidiary shrine was originally built as the Yakushidō, a Buddhist hall dedicated to the Medicine Buddha, during the time when Shinto and Buddhism coexisted freely at the site. During the Meiji government's order to separate the two religions, the Buddhist deity was removed and the hall was rededicated as Hie Shrine, preserving the architecture while adapting its religious function.

Other Structures

The Jinko (sacred storehouse) originally served as a treasure repository before the museum was built. The Kaguraden (sacred dance hall) hosts ceremonial performances. The Shinsenjo (offering hall) is where food offerings for the deity are prepared. The Higashimon (east gate), Watarirō (connecting corridor), Tamagaki (jeweled fence), and Byomon (mausoleum gate) collectively form an integrated architectural environment that channels visitors through a carefully designed sequence of sacred spaces, each transition heightening the sense of reverence as one approaches the innermost sanctum.

Visitor Information

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine is open year-round from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (last admission at 4:00 PM). The admission fee for the shrine precincts is 700 yen for adults (high school students and above) and 200 yen for children (elementary and junior high school students). A separate fee applies for the Kunozan Toshogu Museum.

There are two ways to reach the shrine. The first is the Nihondaira Ropeway, a five-minute aerial ride from the summit of Nihondaira offering spectacular views of Suruga Bay and, on clear days, Mount Fuji. The second is the historic stone stairway from the base of the mountain — a climb of 1,159 steps that takes approximately 20 to 30 minutes. The steps are affectionately remembered by a Japanese pun: "ichi-ichi go-kurō-san" (1-1-5-9), which sounds like a phrase meaning "thank you for your trouble."

From JR Shizuoka Station, take the Shizutetsu Just Line bus bound for Nihondaira (approximately 50 minutes) and transfer to the ropeway. By car, drive from the Tomei Expressway Shizuoka or Shimizu interchange to the Nihondaira summit (approximately 40 minutes), where free parking for about 200 vehicles is available.

Surrounding Attractions

The Nihondaira area surrounding Kunozan Toshogu offers several additional points of interest. Nihondaira Yume Terrace, designed by architect Kengo Kuma, provides a stunning 360-degree observation deck with panoramic views of Mount Fuji and Suruga Bay. The Kunozan Toshogu Museum, located within the shrine grounds, houses a remarkable collection of Ieyasu's personal effects, including Japan's oldest surviving spring-driven clock — a Spanish timepiece made by Hans de Evalo in 1581 and presented to Ieyasu in 1611 — as well as what is believed to be the oldest pencil in Japan.

The nearby Miho no Matsubara pine grove, a UNESCO World Heritage Site component of Mount Fuji's cultural landscape, is accessible from the Shimizu area. Sunpu Castle Park in central Shizuoka preserves the site of Ieyasu's retirement castle and features reconstructed turrets and beautiful gardens. The area at the foot of Mount Kuno is also famous for stone-wall strawberry farming, and visitors can enjoy strawberry picking during the winter and spring seasons.