Ritsukoji Tahoto Pagoda

Introduction

Standing gracefully amid the leafy southern grounds of Tatsue-ji Temple, the Tahōtō (multi-storied pagoda) is one of the most elegant examples of Taishō-era Buddhist architecture in Shikoku. Completed in 1923, this wooden two-storied pagoda blends traditional craftsmanship with the refined decorative sensibilities of the early twentieth century. In March 2024, the pagoda was officially registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property, recognizing its architectural and historical significance. Tatsue-ji itself is Temple No. 19 on the renowned Shikoku Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage and is revered as the "General Barrier of Shikoku" — a place of deep spiritual power where, according to legend, those harboring sinful thoughts cannot pass unscathed.

Historical Background

Tatsue-ji Temple traces its origins to the year 747, when the eminent monk Gyōki founded it under an imperial decree from Emperor Shōmu. Gyōki carved a small golden statue of Enmei Jizō Bosatsu (the Lifespan-Extending Jizō Bodhisattva) to pray for the safe delivery of Empress Kōmyō's child. When the great master Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi) visited the temple in 815, he was concerned that the tiny statue might be lost, so he carved a life-sized Jizō Bodhisattva and placed the original within it. Kūkai also bestowed the name "Tatsue-ji" upon the temple at that time.

The temple originally stood about 400 meters to the west, at the site of present-day Shimizu-ji (now an inner sanctuary). During the Tenshō period (1573–1593), the temple was destroyed by the forces of Chōsokabe Motochika, though the principal image miraculously survived. Hachisuka Iemasa, the first lord of the Tokushima domain, rebuilt the temple at its current location. Tragically, a fire in 1974 destroyed the main hall, but the principal image was once again saved. The main hall was reconstructed and completed in 1977.

The Tahōtō pagoda was initiated by Shōno Rinshin, a former head priest of Tatsue-ji who also served as the chief abbot of Kōyasan. Construction was completed in 1923 (Taishō 12), creating a striking landmark within the temple grounds that has stood for over a century.

Why It Was Designated as a Cultural Property

The Tatsue-ji Tahōtō was registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building) on March 6, 2024, under registration number 36-0228. The pagoda is valued as a fine example of a modern-era tahōtō that faithfully applies traditional architectural techniques while incorporating the decorative sensibilities characteristic of the Taishō period. The elaborate carvings on the ita-shirin (board bearing blocks) and koshigumi kaerumata (frog-leg struts in the waist framing) are particularly noteworthy as examples of ornamental craftsmanship. The building demonstrates how early twentieth-century Buddhist architecture in Shikoku maintained and adapted centuries-old construction methods, making it an important piece of Japan's architectural heritage.

Architectural Highlights

The Tahōtō is a wooden two-storied pagoda with a total building area of 31 square meters. Its architectural composition follows the classic tahōtō form unique to Japan: a square lower story surmounted by a cylindrical upper story crowned with a pyramidal roof.

Lower Story

The lower story has a three-bay square plan (hō-sangen) with a veranda running around the perimeter, fitted with giboshi-kōran (ornamental balustrades topped with onion-shaped finials). The roof is finished in hon-kawarabuki (traditional Japanese tile). The bracket complex employs the degumi style, and the eaves feature futanoki shige-daruki (double-layered closely spaced rafters). The central bay has sangarado (latticed doors), while the side bays have renji-mado (latticed windows). Ornamental carvings adorn the area above the bracket complexes and the bearing blocks.

Upper Story

The upper story rises on a circular plan, its roof clad in copper plates shaped to resemble traditional tiles (hon-kawara-gata dōban-buki). The bracket system here is more elaborate, employing the yotesaki (four-stepped) style, and the eaves display futanoki ōgi-daruki (double-layered fan rafters) — a technically demanding feature that radiates outward from the circular plan.

Interior

Inside, four heavenly pillars (shitenchū) define the central sacred space. Within these pillars, the ceiling features an oriage gōtenjō (coffered ceiling with raised center panels), an elegant treatment that enhances the sense of sacredness. A sumidan (altar platform) supports a miniature tahōtō enshrining the Five Wisdom Buddhas (Gochi Nyorai).

Attractions and Highlights of Tatsue-ji Temple

Beyond the Tahōtō pagoda, Tatsue-ji Temple offers visitors a wealth of fascinating sites and stories:

• Main Hall (Hondō): Rebuilt in 1977 after the 1974 fire, the main hall is celebrated for its spectacular painted coffered ceiling featuring birds and flowers, created under the guidance of Professor Nishimura Kōchō of Tokyo University of the Arts.
• Kurokami-dō (Black Hair Hall): This small hall preserves the "flesh-attached bell rope," a relic from the famous legend of O-Kyō, a woman whose hair was supernaturally seized by the temple bell rope as punishment for the murder of her husband. The legend underscores Tatsue-ji's role as a barrier temple where the sinful face divine retribution.
• Shirasugi-bashi (White Heron Bridge): According to tradition, those who cross this bridge over the Tatsue River without seeing a white heron are recognized as people of pure heart.
• Shirasu-gi Daimyōjin Shrine: A small shrine within the temple grounds dedicated to a deity said to have been the guardian spirit of Kūkai during his journey to Tang China.

Visitor Information

Tatsue-ji Temple is located in the town of Tatsue in Komatsushima City, Tokushima Prefecture, easily accessible from both Tokushima City and along the Shikoku Pilgrimage route. The temple is approximately a 5-minute walk from JR Tatsue Station on the Mugi Line. By car, it is about 300 meters from the Shirasugi-bashi bridge on Tokushima Prefectural Route 28. Parking is available within the temple grounds. Admission to the temple grounds is free, and the temple is open for visitors throughout the day. Pilgrims and tourists alike are welcome to explore the pagoda and other structures within the precinct.

Surrounding Attractions

Komatsushima City and its environs offer a range of enjoyable experiences for visitors:

• Onzan-ji Temple (Temple No. 18): The previous stop on the Shikoku Pilgrimage, approximately 4 km northwest of Tatsue-ji. Known for its ancient Biranju tree and the legend of Kūkai's mother.
• Komatsushima Station Park: A public park built on the site of the former Komatsushima Port railway line, featuring a restored station building, a real steam locomotive display, and expansive lawns.
• Yoshitsune Kiba-zō (Equestrian Statue of Minamoto no Yoshitsune): A 6.7-meter bronze statue on Hatayama hill, commemorating the legendary warrior's landing in Komatsushima during the Genpei War.
• Nippo-zan (Mt. Nippō): One of the Three Peaks of Awa at 192 meters, offering panoramic views of the Kii Channel, Naruto, Awaji Island, and on clear days, the coast of Wakayama.
• Kinchō Shrine: A shrine dedicated to the famous tanuki (raccoon dog) of the Awa Tanuki War legend, a beloved piece of Tokushima folklore.