Kurosawa Building

Kurosawa Building: A Showa-Era Gem Housing Japan's Finest Stained Glass

Tucked away on a lively street near Ueno's Shinobazu Pond, the Kurosawa Building (黒沢ビル) stands as a quiet yet remarkable survivor of early Showa-era architecture. Originally constructed in 1930 as the Ogawa Eye Hospital, this reinforced concrete structure is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, celebrated for its Expressionist-style facade and, most notably, the exquisite stained glass works of Ogawa Sanchi — widely regarded as Japan's first stained glass artist.

The building offers a rare opportunity to experience the intersection of Western architectural innovation and Japanese artistic tradition in an intimate, lived-in setting that continues to serve the community as a working tenant building nearly a century after its construction.

Historical Background: From Eye Hospital to Cultural Heritage

The story of the Kurosawa Building begins with the Ogawa family of Shizuoka, originally a family of physicians serving the Shizuoka domain. Ogawa Kensaburo (1871–1933), who would become a distinguished ophthalmologist, opened the Ogawa Eye Hospital in the Ikenohata neighborhood of Ueno during the Taisho period. However, the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 destroyed the original wooden hospital building.

Determined to rebuild, Kensaburo commissioned a new, earthquake-resistant reinforced concrete structure. Construction began in 1928 and was completed in 1930, resulting in the three-story building with one basement level that stands today. After Kensaburo's death in 1933, the building was inherited and eventually renamed the Kurosawa Building, transitioning into a multi-tenant property.

The building's significance extends beyond its architecture. Kensaburo's elder brother, Ogawa Sanchi (1867–1928), was a pioneering stained glass artist who created the glass works that adorn the building's interior. Tragically, Sanchi passed away in October 1928 while the hospital was still under construction, making the stained glass panels at the Kurosawa Building among his very last creations — a final artistic legacy crafted for his beloved brother.

Why It Was Designated: Architectural and Cultural Value

The Kurosawa Building was registered as a Tangible Cultural Property on November 10, 2005, under the criterion of serving as a model of design excellence. The registration recognized several distinctive features of the building.

The facade of the ground floor is clad in teppei-seki (iron-flat stone), a dark volcanic stone that gives the building a dignified, solid appearance. The windows feature pointed arch designs reminiscent of Gothic architecture, while concrete hood-shaped canopies above select windows display the influence of German Expressionist architectural movements that were gaining attention in Japan during the late 1920s.

On the rooftop, a greenhouse-style ultraviolet therapy room remains intact — a fascinating relic of early 20th-century ophthalmological practice. The building's interior is further distinguished by the presence of multiple stained glass works by Ogawa Sanchi, making it one of the few locations where visitors can experience a concentration of his art in its original architectural setting.

Architectural Highlights and Stained Glass Treasures

The Kurosawa Building's most celebrated feature is its collection of stained glass panels by Ogawa Sanchi, displayed throughout the building's interior spaces.

The Entrance Transom: "Keimei Kokugyo" (Roosters Announcing the Dawn)

Above the main entrance, the transom window features a stunning composition depicting two roosters at dawn. The panel employs opalescent glass throughout, allowing exterior light to interact dynamically with the colored glass. The rooster bodies are rendered in rich brown opalescent glass, while the morning sunlight is conveyed through subtly tinted red opalescent panels. The craftsmanship is remarkable — Sanchi used narrow, rounded lead came for the birds while employing wider, flat lead came for other areas, demonstrating meticulous attention to visual texture.

The Interior Transom: "Tachiaoi" (Hollyhocks)

Behind the entrance, a second transom presents a green-toned composition of hollyhock flowers, creating a calming atmosphere as visitors step inside. The subdued palette provides an elegant contrast to the vibrant roosters of the exterior panel.

The Reception Room

The building's reception room contains additional stained glass works, including a distinctive ceiling light fixture with etched glass featuring hidden animal motifs. This room is the primary focus of the building's monthly public viewing events.

Basement Treasures

In the basement, a glass-doored bookcase features four panels of etched glass with a portrait believed to depict Ogawa Kensaburo himself, executed with sophisticated sandblasting techniques that create a remarkably three-dimensional effect.

Expressionist Facade

The building's exterior showcases the Expressionist-influenced design with its teppei-seki stone cladding on the ground floor, pointed arch windows, and distinctive concrete hood-like canopies — architectural elements that give the structure a striking presence among its more modern neighbors on the busy Ueno street.

Ogawa Sanchi: Japan's Pioneer of Stained Glass

To fully appreciate the Kurosawa Building, it is essential to understand the remarkable life of Ogawa Sanchi. Born in 1867 in Shizuoka to a family of domain physicians, Sanchi was expected to follow in his father's medical footsteps. He enrolled at the First Higher School (predecessor of the University of Tokyo) but ultimately could not suppress his passion for art. He relinquished the family succession to his younger brother Kensaburo and entered the Tokyo Fine Arts School (now Tokyo University of the Arts), studying Japanese painting under the renowned master Hashimoto Gaho.

In 1900, at the age of 33, Sanchi traveled to the United States, initially teaching Japanese painting at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. It was in America that he encountered stained glass art and discovered his true calling. He spent years learning techniques at various workshops before returning to Japan in 1911.

Sanchi's genius lay in his ability to merge Western stained glass techniques with Japanese aesthetic sensibilities. His works combine Art Nouveau and Art Deco elements with traditional Japanese painting principles — asymmetric compositions, the beauty of empty space, and delicate depictions of birds, flowers, and natural scenes rendered in soft, nuanced color palettes. His style stands in stark contrast to the bold religious imagery typical of Western stained glass, offering instead a contemplative, almost painterly quality.

His known works include pieces at the Hatoyama Hall, the National Museum of Nature and Science, and several private residences. However, many of his creations were lost to the Great Kanto Earthquake and World War II, making the surviving works at the Kurosawa Building all the more precious.

Visitor Information

The Kurosawa Building currently functions as a tenant building housing medical clinics, dental offices, and various businesses. The exterior can be viewed freely at any time from the public street. The building's common areas — entrance hall, corridors, and staircases — may be quietly observed during business hours, provided visitors do not disturb the tenants and their patients.

For those wishing to see the stained glass collection up close, the building holds a guided public viewing approximately once a month, by reservation only. The participation fee of 3,000 yen contributes to the building's maintenance and preservation. Participants receive a set of postcards featuring architectural photographs by the renowned photographer Masuda Akihisa. Detailed schedules and reservation information are available on the Kurosawa Building's official website.

Nearby Attractions

The Kurosawa Building's location in the Ueno district places it within easy reach of some of Tokyo's most important cultural institutions and historic sites.

• Ueno Park and Shinobazu Pond — A sprawling green space featuring temples, shrines, and seasonal cherry blossoms, with the scenic Shinobazu Pond just steps away.
• Tokyo National Museum — Japan's oldest and largest museum, housing an extraordinary collection of Asian art and antiquities.
• National Museum of Nature and Science — Home to another Ogawa Sanchi stained glass work in its historic main building, which is itself a designated Important Cultural Property.
• Former Iwasaki Residence — A magnificent Western-style mansion built for the Mitsubishi founding family, designated as an Important Cultural Property.
• Yushima Tenmangu Shrine — A beloved shrine dedicated to the deity of learning, famous for its plum blossoms in early spring.
• Ameyoko Shopping Street — A bustling market street near Ueno Station, perfect for experiencing Tokyo's vibrant street culture and finding bargain goods and fresh seafood.