Chohoji Temple Main Hall

Chohoji Temple Main Hall: A National Treasure Where Two Architectural Worlds Meet

Nestled among the verdant hills of Kainan City in Wakayama Prefecture, Chohoji Temple (長保寺) stands as one of Japan's most remarkable yet lesser-known cultural treasures. Founded in the year 1000 CE by imperial decree of Emperor Ichijo, this Tendai Buddhist temple boasts an extraordinary distinction: alongside Horyuji Temple in Nara, it is the only temple in Japan where the main hall, pagoda, and main gate are all designated as National Treasures. The Main Hall (Hondo), built in 1311 during the late Kamakura period, is a masterpiece of eclectic architecture that harmoniously blends traditional Japanese Wayo style with the newly introduced Zen-inspired Zenshuyo (Chinese) style — a fusion that was revolutionary for its time and remains breathtaking to this day.

A Thousand Years of History

Chohoji Temple was established in the second year of the Choho era (1000 CE), during the golden age of Heian court culture. Emperor Ichijo commissioned the monk Shoku (性空), a disciple of the great Tendai patriarch Ennin (Jikaku Daishi), to build a grand temple complex. The temple took its name from the era of its founding — "Choho" — making it a living monument to one of Japan's most culturally rich periods. This was the era when Sei Shonagon composed "The Pillow Book" and Murasaki Shikibu wrote "The Tale of Genji," both serving as ladies-in-waiting to Emperor Ichijo's two empresses.

By 1017, the original complex was complete with seven main halls and twelve sub-temples. However, the temple was later relocated to its current site during the late Kamakura period, and the buildings we see today were constructed between the late 13th and late 14th centuries. The Main Hall, dating to 1311, is the oldest surviving structure in the current complex.

In 1666, the first lord of the Kishu Tokugawa domain, Tokugawa Yorinobu (the tenth son of Tokugawa Ieyasu), designated Chohoji as the family temple (bodaiji) of the Kishu Tokugawa clan. The hillside behind the temple became the burial ground for successive Kishu domain lords — with the exception of the 5th lord Yoshimune and the 13th lord Yoshitomi, who went on to become Shoguns of all Japan and were buried in Edo (Tokyo). This mausoleum, spanning approximately 33,000 square meters, is the largest daimyo burial ground in Japan and is designated a National Historic Site.

Why the Main Hall Is a National Treasure

The Main Hall of Chohoji was designated a National Treasure on March 31, 1953. Its significance lies not merely in its age but in its exceptional architectural achievement. Built in 1311 (Enkei 4), the hall represents one of the finest examples of Secchūyō — the eclectic style that emerged in Japan during the Kamakura period by blending elements of two distinct architectural traditions.

The exterior of the Main Hall is predominantly designed in the traditional Japanese Wayo style, with its graceful hip-and-gable (irimoya-zukuri) roof covered in hongawara tiles, five-bay facade, and a projecting worship area (kohai). However, the interior incorporates Zenshuyo (Zen-style or Karayo) elements — particularly in the pillars and bracket complexes (kumimono) around the inner sanctuary. This masterful fusion of two seemingly different aesthetics into a unified whole was a remarkable creative achievement. The building demonstrates how Japanese architects of the Kamakura period did not simply copy continental styles but thoughtfully integrated them with native traditions to create something entirely new.

The hall enshrines a seated statue of Shaka Nyorai (Shakyamuni Buddha) as its principal image, flanked by attendant statues of Fugen Bosatsu (Samantabhadra) and Monju Bosatsu (Manjushri). The altar shrine (zushi) that houses these images is designated as an appendage to the National Treasure.

Architectural Highlights and What to Look For

When visiting the Main Hall, there are several architectural details that reward close attention. The structure measures five bays wide (ketayuki) and five bays deep (harima), creating a nearly square plan that gives the building a sense of stability and balance. The single-story hip-and-gable roof has a gentle, sweeping curve that is characteristic of the Wayo tradition, lending the entire structure an air of quiet elegance.

The key to appreciating this building lies in the contrast between exterior and interior. From outside, the hall appears to follow classical Japanese temple conventions — understated, refined, and harmonious with the natural landscape. Step closer, however, and you begin to notice Zen-style details: the distinctive bracket arm arrangements, the curved profiles of certain structural elements, and the more elaborate ornamentation around the inner sanctuary. According to the official cultural property designation record, the building successfully achieves a harmonious blend of these two styles — a quality described as a "typical example of the Wayo-Karayo eclectic style."

Beyond the Main Hall, visitors should also take time to appreciate the other National Treasure buildings within the temple complex. The Tahoto (multi-treasure pagoda), built in 1357, is considered one of the finest surviving examples of its kind, with its pure Wayo exterior and well-balanced proportions between the first and second stories. The Daimon (Great Gate), reconstructed in 1388 under imperial decree, is a magnificent two-story gate that serves as the temple's grand entrance.

The Kishu Tokugawa Connection

The association with the powerful Kishu Tokugawa clan adds another fascinating layer to the temple's story. When Tokugawa Yorinobu first visited in 1666 during a return trip from the Kumano region, he recognized the strategic value of the location — surrounded by mountains and forming a natural fortress. His exact words, that the site was "impregnable and secure," suggest he may have envisioned it as a potential military stronghold as well as a spiritual sanctuary.

The expansive mausoleum on the eastern hillside contains the graves of the Kishu domain lords and their families, adorned with magnificent stone lanterns, memorial stones, and elaborately constructed stone walls. These funerary monuments provide invaluable insights into Edo-period burial customs and aristocratic culture. While the mausoleum has been affected by natural disasters in recent years, it remains one of the most important sites for understanding the grandeur and sophistication of early modern Japanese daimyo culture.

Seasonal Beauty and Natural Surroundings

Chohoji Temple is celebrated as a "temple of flowers" (hana no tera), with cherry blossoms in spring and hydrangeas in early summer drawing visitors from across Japan. The temple grounds are blanketed by a rare evergreen broadleaf forest designated as a Prefectural Natural Monument, featuring chinquapin, Japanese holly olive, bayberry, and Japanese evergreen oak trees that have been preserved through centuries of careful stewardship by the temple.

The surrounding Shimotsu area of Kainan City is known for its mandarin orange orchards, and the hillside location offers beautiful views of the Kii Channel and the surrounding mountains. The quiet, unhurried atmosphere of the temple — far from the tourist crowds of Kyoto and Nara — provides a uniquely contemplative experience for visitors seeking authentic encounters with Japanese cultural heritage.

Important Visitor Notice

Due to a landslide caused by torrential rains in June 2023, the area behind the Main Hall suffered significant damage, and the temple has been closed to general visitors while restoration work progresses. As of 2025, recovery operations are ongoing under the guidance of the Agency for Cultural Affairs, using specialized techniques to preserve the historical integrity of the site. Visitors are strongly advised to check the temple's official website or contact the temple directly before planning a visit, as the reopening date has not yet been announced.

Nearby Attractions

A visit to the Chohoji Temple area can be combined with several other cultural and scenic experiences in and around Kainan City. The Kuroe lacquerware district (Kuroe Shikki-cho), located near JR Kainan Station, has been a center of traditional Japanese lacquerware production for over 600 years and offers workshops where visitors can try making their own lacquered chopsticks. Wakayama Castle, the historic seat of the Kishu Tokugawa clan, is about 30 minutes away by train and provides further context for understanding the powerful domain that patronized Chohoji. For those walking the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail, the Kii Route passes through the nearby Fujishiro area, offering a connection between coastal cultural sites and the sacred mountains of Kumano.