Former Yamadera Hotel

Former Yamadera Hotel: A Meiji-Era Inn at the Gateway to One of Japan's Most Sacred Temples

Standing directly across from JR Yamadera Station, the Former Yamadera Hotel (旧山寺ホテル) is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property that has witnessed over a century of history at the foot of Risshakuji Temple — the famed mountain temple immortalized by haiku master Matsuo Basho. This two-story wooden building, with its blend of traditional Japanese inn architecture and early modern design elements, offers visitors a rare glimpse into the hospitality culture that once flourished in one of Tohoku's most celebrated pilgrimage towns.

A History Rooted in Yamadera's Pilgrimage Tradition

The story of the Former Yamadera Hotel stretches back to the mid-Edo period. Yamadera, being a sacred mountain, originally had no commercial lodgings — only temple quarters for pilgrims. It was not until the Horeki era (around 1751) that Risshakuji Temple permitted the establishment of inns in the area, and at its peak, 24 lodging houses operated along the Kawaracho district at the temple's gates.

The hotel's predecessor was a traditional inn called "Nakashimaya," located in the Kawaracho monzenmachi (temple gate town). In August 1913 (Taisho 2), the Tachiyagawa River flooded catastrophically, sweeping the building away. The seventh-generation proprietor, Takeda Jirōbē, subsequently relocated to the current site on the opposite bank of the Taimenishi area (Nan'in district) and inherited the name "Yamadera Hotel" from the previous owner of the building at that location, Konno Yūseki, who had been using the name since around 1902 (Meiji 35).

With considerable community support, the proprietor renovated the building into a high-class inn (kōtō ryokan) in 1916 (Taisho 5), complete with a Kyoto-style garden. At that time, the main entrance faced the garden and Risshakuji Temple, and photographs from the era show rickshaws bustling at its doorstep.

Transformation in the Railway Age

The opening of the JR Senzan Line brought dramatic change to the hotel. When the Yamagata-to-Yamadera section opened in 1933 (Showa 8), the hotel's entrance still faced the garden side. However, when the full line connecting Sendai and Yamagata opened in 1937, Yamadera entered a golden age of tourism. In anticipation, the hotel constructed a new wing (shinkan) in 1936 (Showa 11) on the east side, reorienting the main entrance to face the newly built Yamadera Station with an elegant karahafu-style (cusped gable) entrance canopy.

The new wing featured decidedly modern touches for its time: a Western-style dining room, showcase windows facing the street, cement tile roofing — then considered cutting-edge — and one of the area's earliest telephones, registered as "Yamadera Number Three." The original telephone room still survives within the building.

Why It Was Designated a Registered Tangible Cultural Property

The Former Yamadera Hotel was registered as a national Tangible Cultural Property (building) on November 17, 2015. The designation recognizes its significance on several grounds.

The building is a composite structure of three interconnected two-story wooden sections: the main building (honkan) at the center, the residential quarters (kyojūbu) to the west, and the new wing (shinkan) to the east. Its total building area is approximately 423 square meters, with steel plate and iron plate roofing.

Architecturally, the building documents the evolution of a Japanese inn from the Meiji through early Showa periods. The original north-facing entrance of the main building remains intact, while the later karahafu-style entrance on the east side demonstrates how the hotel adapted to the arrival of the railway. The new wing's second floor features geometric facade designs that are characteristic of early Showa-era modernist architecture. Together, these elements contribute significantly to the historic townscape of the Risshakuji monzen (temple gate) district.

What to See: Highlights of the Former Yamadera Hotel

Today the building operates as the Yamagata Retro Hall (やまがたレトロ館), which opened in 2012 after the hotel closed in 2007. Admission is free, and visitors are warmly welcomed by volunteer staff who can guide you through the building's history.

The Building Itself

The labyrinthine first floor retains its original layout of interconnected rooms and corridors, offering a tangible sense of how a traditional Japanese inn functioned. Look for the wooden signboard at the front, which bears the carved inscription "Nakashimaya Jirōbē" on its reverse — a direct link to the hotel's Edo-period origins.

The Second-Floor Grand Hall

The spacious tatami-floored banquet hall on the second floor offers a magnificent view of Risshakuji Temple and the surrounding mountains of Hojuzan. This panoramic vista across the valley is one of the finest vantage points in the Yamadera area.

The Kyoto-Style Garden

The garden, originally designed in the Kyoto tradition, has been gradually restored by a young gardener trained in Kyoto. Seasonal highlights include camellias in spring and vibrant autumn foliage that frames views of the mountainside temple.

Yuki Taisaku Pen Drawing Exhibition

The hall permanently exhibits approximately 120 pen drawings by Yuki Taisaku (1922–2005), a self-taught artist born into a family of plasterers. His intricate black-and-white drawings depict historic buildings across Yamagata Prefecture with remarkable precision, all rendered freehand without rulers — a testament to his years of experience drafting architectural plans. The delicate addition of plants and birds from his memory gives each work a nostalgic warmth.

Nearby Attractions

The Former Yamadera Hotel is ideally situated as a rest stop before or after visiting Risshakuji Temple. The surrounding area offers several worthwhile experiences.

• Risshakuji Temple (Yamadera): Founded in 860 by the priest Ennin (Jikaku Daishi), this temple complex clings dramatically to the mountainside. The 1,015-step stone stairway leads to the Godaido observation platform with breathtaking panoramic views. The temple is famously associated with Matsuo Basho's celebrated haiku about the stillness and the sound of cicadas.
• Yamadera Basho Memorial Museum: A museum dedicated to the haiku master, located a short walk across the valley from the temple complex.
• Monzen-machi Street Food: The temple approach is lined with shops offering local specialties including chikara konnyaku (konjac skewers with mustard), cherry-flavored soft serve ice cream, and handmade soba noodles.
• Tendo Onsen: A popular hot spring resort about 20 minutes away by car, known for its relaxing accommodations and shogi (Japanese chess) culture.
• Zao Onsen: Approximately 40 minutes by car, this mountain hot spring resort is famous for its winter frost-covered trees (juhyo) and excellent skiing.