New Murao Romankan Annex

New Murao Roman-kan Annex: A Showa-Era Masterpiece in Kaminoyama Onsen

Nestled on a hilltop overlooking the historic hot spring town of Kaminoyama in Yamagata Prefecture, the New Murao Roman-kan Annex (ニュー村尾浪漫館離れ) stands as one of the finest surviving examples of luxury ryokan architecture from prewar Japan. Built in 1937, this ensemble of five exquisite wooden buildings connected by covered walkways was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in 2016, recognized for its exceptional design and craftsmanship that vividly illustrate the prosperity and prestige of Kaminoyama Onsen during the early Showa period.

Set within the expansive grounds of approximately 5,500 tsubo (about 18,000 square meters) that comprise the New Murao Roman-kan inn, the annex buildings face a tranquil garden pond. Their elegant irimoya-style roofs, richly appointed interiors, and harmonious integration with the surrounding landscape make them an architectural treasure that has welcomed distinguished guests — including members of the Japanese imperial family — for nearly nine decades.

Historical Background

The Founding of Murao Ryokan

The story of the Murao Ryokan begins around 1920 (Taisho 9), when its founder Yosuke Murao, originally a silk merchant, noticed something remarkable while passing through the Shinyu district on his way to hunt. In the area near the ruins of the old Tsukioka Castle moat — long since fallen into disrepair with stones scattered amid wild grass and reeds — he observed patches of ground where snow never accumulated and steam constantly rose from the earth. Convinced that a hot spring lay beneath the surface, he resolved to begin drilling.

The drilling effort proved extraordinarily difficult. Over two years, Murao endured severe financial and physical hardship. When the prefectural government ordered him to cease operations, local representatives from the Futsukamachi district intervened on his behalf, securing special permission for Murao alone to continue drilling until a spring was found. On March 4, 1922 (Taisho 11), at a depth of 104 meters, hot water at 64 degrees Celsius finally surged forth. Further drilling to 161.7 meters yielded even greater flow at 66 degrees — the highest temperature and volume of any spring in the Shinyu district.

Growth and Expansion

Murao Ryokan opened as a modest wooden three-story inn with just 12 guest rooms. Despite the family's financial exhaustion from years of drilling investment, the business flourished. By 1928 (Showa 3), a second wing was added, featuring banquet halls and conference rooms capable of hosting over 100 guests — a forward-thinking decision that initially drew ridicule from peers but soon proved prescient, attracting government agencies and railway officials for conferences and celebrations.

In 1935 (Showa 10), the third major expansion brought the construction of the detached annex buildings (hanare-so), the very structures that would later earn cultural property recognition. Completed in 1937, these five buildings represented the pinnacle of ryokan luxury, designed to provide the most distinguished guests with an experience of unparalleled elegance and privacy.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

The New Murao Roman-kan Annex was registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building) on November 29, 2016, under registration number 06-0176. The registration was granted under the criterion of being an exemplary work of design ("造形の規範となっているもの").

The official designation statement highlights several qualities that make the annex architecturally significant. The five single-story wooden buildings are arranged around a garden pond, each crowned with an irimoya (hip-and-gable) roof covered in cement pantiles. The buildings are connected to one another by covered walkways (watarō-rōka), creating a flowing sequence of private spaces within the landscape. Great care was given to the appearance of the exterior walls and eaves as viewed from the Japanese garden, ensuring that the architecture and landscape exist in seamless harmony.

Inside, the rooms display lavish craftsmanship: formal tokonoma alcoves with carefully composed decorative arrangements, intricately carved ranma transoms, delicately patterned shoji sliding doors, and fusuma panels adorned with painted artwork. This level of decorative refinement throughout the entire complex is recognized as vividly demonstrating the prosperity and cultural ambition of Kaminoyama Onsen at its height.

Architectural and Artistic Highlights

Irimoya Roofline and Exterior Design

The irimoya (hip-and-gable) roof style used on all five buildings is one of the most prestigious roof forms in Japanese architecture, historically associated with temples, shrines, and aristocratic residences. The use of cement pantiles (セメント製桟瓦) reflects the technological innovations of the early Showa period, combining traditional aesthetics with modern durability. The rooflines, viewed across the pond from the garden, create a picturesque composition that evokes the atmosphere of a nobleman's villa.

Connected Walkway System

The covered walkways (渡廊下) that link the five detached buildings serve both practical and aesthetic purposes. They allow guests to move between rooms while remaining sheltered from rain and snow — particularly important in Yamagata's harsh winters — while also framing garden views and creating a sense of journey and discovery as one moves through the complex. The total building footprint of 522 square meters includes these connecting passages.

Interior Craftsmanship

Each room in the annex showcases the finest traditional Japanese interior design. The tokonoma alcoves (座敷飾) serve as focal points for seasonal flower arrangements and hanging scrolls. The ranma transoms (欄間) above the fusuma doors feature intricate openwork carvings of natural motifs. The shoji screens (障子戸) filter natural light into soft, diffuse illumination, while the fusuma paintings (襖絵) transform sliding doors into canvases of artistic expression. Together, these elements create spaces of extraordinary beauty and refinement.

Garden Integration

The annex buildings were designed with their garden setting as an integral consideration. The exteriors, including wall surfaces and projecting eaves, were carefully composed to present an attractive appearance when viewed from the pond garden. This attention to the relationship between architecture and landscape reflects the Japanese design principle of borrowed scenery (shakkei), where the building and its natural surroundings are conceived as a unified artistic composition.

Visitor Information

The New Murao Roman-kan Annex is located within the grounds of the New Murao Roman-kan inn in the Shinyu district of Kaminoyama Onsen. The annex buildings can be viewed by guests staying at the inn, and areas outside the guest rooms may be open for tour viewing — visitors are encouraged to inquire at the front desk about current access arrangements.

The inn is situated on a hilltop and is entered through a distinctive black gate (kuromon) adorned with white lanterns, followed by a climb up a sloping path. The approximately 5,500-tsubo grounds include a Japanese garden with a pond, a three-story wooden main building from the early Showa period, and the registered cultural property annex buildings.

Kaminoyama Onsen Station on the Yamagata Shinkansen line is approximately 15 minutes on foot from the inn. Shuttle bus service may be available with advance reservation. The hot spring water is a calcium and sodium chloride spring (gypsum-containing salt spring), known for its warming and skin-moisturizing properties.

Surrounding Attractions

Kaminoyama Onsen offers a wealth of cultural and natural attractions within easy reach of the New Murao Roman-kan. The town uniquely combines the character of a castle town, post town, and hot spring resort — a rare combination in Japan.

Kaminoyama Castle (上山城): Also known as Tsukioka Castle, this reconstructed castle tower serves as a local history museum and offers panoramic views of the town and the Zao mountain range. The castle is within walking distance of the Shinyu district and is especially beautiful during cherry blossom season in spring.

Samurai District (武家屋敷): Four samurai residences dating back approximately 200 years line Nakachō Street, preserving the atmosphere of the feudal Kaminoyama domain. Two of the four residences are open to the public for interior visits.

Public Bath Houses (共同浴場): Kaminoyama Onsen has six public bath houses scattered throughout its districts, each with its own character. Shimo-Oyu is the oldest, with traditions dating back to the legendary founding of the hot spring. Five free foot baths are also available throughout the town for street-side relaxation.

Saito Mokichi Memorial Museum (斎藤茂吉記念館): Dedicated to the renowned tanka poet born in Kaminoyama, this museum designed by architect Yoshio Taniguchi offers a contemplative space set against the backdrop of the Zao mountains.

Zao Onsen and Okama Crater Lake: A short drive from Kaminoyama, the Zao mountain range offers year-round attractions including the famous emerald crater lake, spectacular autumn foliage along the Zao Echo Line, and world-renowned snow monsters (juhyo) in winter.