Fourth Floor

Shikairō: A Rare Four-Story Pseudo-Western Wooden Building in Kaminoseki

Standing proudly in the small port town of Murotsu on the tip of the Murotsu Peninsula in Yamaguchi Prefecture, Shikairō (四階楼) is one of Japan's most remarkable examples of early Meiji-era pseudo-Western architecture (giyōfū kenchiku). Built in 1879, this four-story wooden structure blends Japanese carpentry traditions with Western design motifs, creating a truly unique building that has survived for over 140 years. Designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan in 2005, Shikairō offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into how Western culture was interpreted and embraced in rural Japan during the transformative years following the Meiji Restoration.

Historical Background

Shikairō was commissioned by Ogata Kenkurō, a man whose life story mirrors the dramatic transformation of Japan in the mid-to-late 19th century. Born in 1834, Ogata served as a staff officer in the Second Kiheitai (irregular militia) during the tumultuous final years of the Tokugawa shogunate. He participated in the Battle of Ōshimaguchi, fighting against shogunate forces in the waters around the Seto Inland Sea.

After the Meiji Restoration, rather than pursuing a government career, Ogata returned to his hometown of Murotsu and established a shipping agency and steamship inn. Murotsu had long been a vital port along the Seto Inland Sea, serving as a harbor for ships waiting for favorable winds and tides. Korean diplomatic envoys, the German physician Siebold, and many political figures had passed through over the centuries.

In 1879, Ogata constructed Shikairō as a combined residence, business premises, and guesthouse to entertain business associates and ship owners. The building later operated as the inn "Shikaiya" from 1925, and then as the inn "Shikaisō" from 1957 until 1991. Notably, Ogata is also known as the father of Nagaoka Gaishi, the military officer credited with introducing skiing to Japan and promoting aviation.

Why Shikairō Was Designated an Important Cultural Property

Shikairō received its designation as a nationally Important Cultural Property on December 27, 2005, for several compelling reasons. The building is one of the last surviving examples of plastered pseudo-Western architecture in western Japan. Its extraordinary layered structure—four stories packed into an eave height of just 9.7 meters—demonstrates remarkable ingenuity in compact vertical design. The introduction of a spiral staircase connecting the floors was highly innovative for its time and place.

The building's decorative plasterwork (kote-e), applied both inside and out, showcases an imaginative fusion of Eastern and Western ornamental traditions. These relief sculptures of dragons, phoenixes, peonies, and lions were created using traditional Japanese plastering techniques to embellish a Western-style exterior—a creative synthesis found in very few surviving structures nationwide. Conservation work carried out between 1998 and 2000 restored much of the original decorative detail based on historical photographs and local testimony.

Architectural Highlights and Things to See

The exterior of Shikairō features white plastered walls in the ōkabe-zukuri style, with decorative string courses (jabara) running between floors and cornerstones at the four corners crafted from plaster mixed with charcoal ink to imitate stone masonry. The building has a hipped roof with san-gawara (interlocking) tiles, and two-story gabled wings with verandas project from the rear on the north and south sides.

The most spectacular decorative features include ascending dragon reliefs on the round pillars at the four corners of the fourth floor, and peony kote-e on the hanging walls beneath the second-floor eaves. Inside, the walls feature chrysanthemum-water motifs and Chinese lion-peony reliefs, while the ceiling of the fourth floor displays a magnificent phoenix with outstretched wings.

The fourth floor is a single 18-tatami-mat room with French stained-glass windows on all four sides. When sunlight passes through these colored glass panels, it casts enchanting patterns of light across the tatami, creating an almost dreamlike atmosphere. The stained glass used in the restoration was sourced from France, matching the originals. From this top floor, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea and the Kaminoseki Strait.

Despite being four stories tall, the building is relatively compact, with a total floor area of approximately 160 square meters and a ceiling height of about 2.2 meters per floor. This intimate scale makes the ornate interiors feel all the more immersive.

Visitor Information

Shikairō is open to the public free of charge, making it an accessible destination for all travelers. The adjacent Kaminoseki Town Local History Museum provides additional context through panels, displays, and video presentations about the building and the broader history of the Kaminoseki area.

The building is located directly across from the Michi-no-Eki Kaminoseki Kaikyō (Roadside Station), where visitors can park and enjoy fresh local seafood. From JR Yanai Station, take the bus bound for Kaminoseki (approximately 50 minutes) and alight at the "Michi-no-Eki Kaminoseki Kaikyō" bus stop; Shikairō is a one-minute walk away. By car, it is approximately 50 minutes from the Kumage IC or Kuga IC on the San'yō Expressway.

Surrounding Attractions

The port town of Murotsu and the wider Kaminoseki area offer a wealth of historical and natural attractions. The Former Kaminoseki Guard Station (Kyū Kaminoseki Bansho) is the only surviving example of a domain guard post in Yamaguchi Prefecture, once used for port security and cargo inspection. Nearby, the ruins of Kaminoseki Castle recall the era of the Murakami Suigun (naval forces) who controlled maritime traffic through the strait from the Nanbokuchō period through the Sengoku era.

Nature lovers will appreciate the scenic coastline of the Murotsu Peninsula and views across the Kaminoseki Strait to Nagashima Island. The Michi-no-Eki Kaminoseki Kaikyō is an excellent place to sample the area's renowned fresh fish and seafood. For those exploring further afield, the historic town of Yanai with its well-preserved white-walled merchant district is about 50 minutes away by bus.