Kinunkaku

Kinunkaku: A Tower-Style Ema Hall Overlooking the Moat of Kikko Park

Standing gracefully at the edge of the old castle moat in Kikko Park, Kinunkaku (錦雲閣) is one of the most photogenic landmarks in the historic Yokoyama district of Iwakuni City, Yamaguchi Prefecture. Built in 1885 (Meiji 18) as an ema hall (votive tablet hall) for Kikko Shrine, this two-story wooden structure was deliberately modeled after the arrow turret (yagura) that once occupied the same site during the feudal era. With its elegant tower-like silhouette reflected in the still waters of the moat, Kinunkaku has been described as resembling a scene from a traditional Japanese painting. In February 2000, it was officially designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, recognized for its historical and architectural significance.

Historical Background

The story of Kinunkaku is inseparable from the history of the Kikkawa clan (吉川家), the feudal lords who governed the Iwakuni domain for over 250 years. Their residential compound, located in the Yokoyama district at the foot of the mountain where Iwakuni Castle stands, served as the administrative heart of the domain throughout the Edo period (1603–1868).

After the Meiji Restoration of 1868, the feudal system was abolished, and the Kikkawa family's estate gradually transitioned to public use. In 1872 (Meiji 5), the three separate shrines dedicated to the Kikkawa ancestors — Chiko-sha, Koshu-sha, and Chinsho-sha — were consolidated into a single institution known as Kikko Shrine (吉香神社). Then, in 1885, the former residential grounds were opened to the public as a park. It was during this transformation that Kinunkaku was constructed on September 9, 1885, as the shrine's ema hall — a place where worshippers could dedicate painted wooden votive tablets to the enshrined spirits of the Kikkawa lords.

The site where Kinunkaku stands was originally occupied by a three-story structure called the Minami-yagura (South Turret), part of the fortifications surrounding the lord's residence. When the new ema hall was designed, the builders intentionally evoked the appearance of this former turret, giving Kinunkaku its distinctive castle-tower aesthetic despite its religious function.

Why Kinunkaku Was Designated a Cultural Property

Kinunkaku was registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan on February 15, 2000, under the national registration system that aims to preserve historically significant structures. The designation recognizes several key attributes of the building.

First, it is one of the few surviving large-scale ema halls from the pre-modern era in Yamaguchi Prefecture. While ema halls were once common features at shrines throughout Japan, most have been lost to natural disasters, fires, or modernization. Kinunkaku's survival as a well-preserved Meiji-era example makes it a valuable piece of architectural heritage.

Second, its tower-style design, deliberately referencing the feudal-era turret that previously stood on the same spot, represents a fascinating blend of religious architecture and military aesthetics. This intentional continuity of form links the Meiji-era building to the centuries of samurai governance that preceded it.

Third, the building's prominent position overlooking the castle moat, combined with its fine craftsmanship and harmonious proportions, makes it an integral component of the historic landscape of the Yokoyama district, which includes the renowned Kintai Bridge, Iwakuni Castle, and Kikko Park.

Architectural Highlights

Kinunkaku is a two-story wooden building with an irimoya-zukuri (hipped-and-gabled) roof covered with san-gawara (pantiles). Its overall dimensions are six ken (approximately 10.9 meters) in the beam direction and four ken (approximately 7.3 meters) in depth, with the main body measuring five ken by three ken. The total building area is approximately 123 square meters.

The ground floor features an earthen floor (doma) and is largely open-sided. The lower portions of the exterior walls are clad in wooden boarding, while the middle section is left open for ventilation and visibility. The upper portion is finished with white plaster walls. Inside, bench-style seating runs along the perimeter, except at the entrance.

The second floor is finished with wooden floorboards and is surrounded on all four sides by a veranda (kirime-en) fitted with decorative railings (kōran). This elevated gallery provides a commanding view of the moat, the surrounding park, and the distant mountains — a feature that enhances Kinunkaku's resemblance to a castle watchtower.

At the front of the building, a painting of Shōki (鍾馗) by the artist Ashino Bunki is displayed. Shōki is a deity from Chinese tradition believed to ward off evil spirits and plague. In Iwakuni, images of Shōki were traditionally used as protective charms against smallpox. While few notable ema remain in the hall today, this painting serves as a reminder of the building's original devotional purpose.

Visitor Information

Kinunkaku is located within the grounds of Kikko Park (吉香公園), which is open year-round and free to enter. The building can be viewed and appreciated from the outside at any time. Its most striking view is from across the moat, where the full reflection of the tower can be seen in the water — a scene that is particularly beautiful during cherry blossom season in spring and when autumn foliage colors the surrounding trees.

To reach Kikko Park and Kinunkaku, visitors typically cross the famous Kintai Bridge (錦帯橋) and walk through the park grounds. The bridge toll is 310 yen for adults and 150 yen for children (round trip). There is no separate admission fee for Kikko Park or for viewing Kinunkaku.

Access by public transportation is straightforward: take a bus from JR Iwakuni Station (approximately 20 minutes) or from JR Shin-Iwakuni Station on the Sanyo Shinkansen line (approximately 15 minutes) and alight at the Kintaikyo bus stop. By car, the park is about 7 minutes from the Iwakuni Interchange on the Sanyo Expressway.

Surrounding Attractions

Kinunkaku sits at the heart of Iwakuni's richest concentration of historical and cultural sites. The following attractions are all within easy walking distance.

Kintai Bridge (錦帯橋) is one of Japan's three most famous bridges, originally built in 1673 with its distinctive five-arched wooden design spanning the Nishiki River. Iwakuni Castle (岩国城) sits atop Mount Shiroyama and is accessible by ropeway; the reconstructed castle offers panoramic views of the river, bridge, and surrounding cityscape. Kikko Shrine (吉香神社), which Kinunkaku serves as an ema hall, enshrines the successive lords of the Kikkawa clan and features worship halls designated as Important Cultural Properties. The Former Mekada Family Residence (旧目加田家住宅) is a designated Important Cultural Property preserving the architecture of a mid-ranking samurai household. The Kagawa Family Nagaya Gate (香川家長屋門) is a prefectural cultural property from one of the five senior retainer families of the Iwakuni domain. The Iwakuni Chokokan Museum (岩国徴古館), a Registered Tangible Cultural Property in its own right, houses historical artifacts and art connected to the Kikkawa family. The Iwakuni White Snake Museum (岩国シロヘビの館) showcases the rare albino snakes designated as a National Natural Monument, found only in the Iwakuni area.