Tsugaru Railway Former Ashino Park Station Bookstore

The Former Ashino Park Station: A Timeless Gem of Tsugaru Railway Heritage

Nestled within the scenic Ashino Park in Goshogawara City, Aomori Prefecture, the Former Ashino Park Station Building (津軽鉄道旧芦野公園駅本屋) stands as a cherished witness to nearly a century of Tsugaru's railway history. Built in 1930 when the Tsugaru Railway first opened, this elegant wooden station served passengers for 45 years before being retired in 1975. Rather than being demolished, the building was lovingly preserved owing to its architectural beauty and significance as a railway monument, and it was designated as a Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property in December 2014. Today, the former station has been reborn as the charming "Red-Roofed Café Ekisha," where visitors can sip coffee amid the nostalgic atmosphere of a bygone era while trains still pass just outside.

Historical Background

The Tsugaru Railway is a beloved local line running approximately 20.7 kilometers through the Tsugaru Plain of Aomori Prefecture, connecting Tsugaru-Goshogawara Station to Tsugaru-Nakazato Station. When the railway opened on October 4, 1930, the Ashino Park Station was built as one of the original stops along the line. For roughly 45 years, this small wooden station welcomed travelers arriving to enjoy the natural beauty of Ashino Park and the surrounding Tsugaru countryside.

In 1975, a new concrete station building was constructed nearby, and the original wooden structure was retired from active service. Despite its age and deterioration, the decision was made to preserve the old station rather than tear it down, recognizing both its visual charm and its importance as the sole surviving building from the Tsugaru Railway's founding era. The station was later taken over by a local NPO called "Kanagi Genki Club," whose members painstakingly restored the building largely by hand, transforming it into a café that honors the station's heritage while keeping it alive as a community gathering place.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

On December 19, 2014, the Former Ashino Park Station Building was officially registered as a Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property. Several factors contributed to this designation. As the only surviving original structure from the Tsugaru Railway's 1930 opening, it holds irreplaceable historical value as a testament to early Showa-era railway architecture in northern Japan.

The building was also recognized for its contribution to the historical landscape of the region. Its continued use as a café operated by local volunteers, its connection to the literary heritage of author Osamu Dazai, and its role as a beloved landmark within the cherry blossom–filled Ashino Park all contributed to its evaluation as a property that enriches Japan's cultural landscape.

Architectural Highlights

The former station is a single-story wooden structure with a building area of approximately 85 square meters, roofed with steel sheeting. The design blends traditional Japanese construction techniques with Western-inspired decorative elements, a combination that was fashionable during the early Showa period.

The exterior walls feature sasarako shitami-ita (簓子下見板), a type of horizontal wooden clapboard siding that gives the building a refined, traditional appearance. Both gable ends are finished in a half-hipped style (半切妻) with small windows, adding visual interest and ventilation. The entrance is crowned by a distinctive koshiore hafu—a mansard-style gable—that lends the structure its signature Western flair. The building's white-painted exterior and characteristic red roof make it immediately recognizable against the surrounding pine trees.

Inside, the original counter that once separated the station office from the passenger waiting room remains intact, preserving the authentic atmosphere of a working rural railway station. Vintage fixtures including old telephones and signage from the station's operational days further enhance the sense of stepping back in time.

Literary Connection: Osamu Dazai and the Novel "Tsugaru"

The Ashino Park Station holds a special place in Japanese literary history as a setting in the novel "Tsugaru" (1944) by Osamu Dazai, one of Japan's most celebrated modern authors. Dazai was born in the nearby town of Kanagi (now part of Goshogawara City) and spent his childhood years playing in Ashino Park. In the novel, he describes arriving at the station and marveling at its peaceful, rustic charm amid the surrounding parkland.

One memorable episode from the novel recounts how the mayor of Kanagi, trying to purchase a connecting ticket to Ashino Park Station at Tokyo's Ueno Station, was told by the clerk that no such station existed. The mayor reportedly became furious and argued until the ticket was finally issued—an anecdote that captures both the station's obscurity and its deep importance to the local community.

This literary connection adds a poignant layer of cultural significance to the building, drawing fans of Dazai's work from across Japan and around the world to trace the footsteps of one of the country's most beloved and tragic literary figures.

Visitor Information: The Red-Roofed Café "Ekisha"

Today, the former station building operates as the "Red-Roofed Café Ekisha" (赤い屋根の喫茶店「駅舎」), managed by the local NPO Kanagi Genki Club. The café serves coffee, sweets, and light meals including a popular horsemeat curry, all within the lovingly restored interior of the historic station.

Visitors can still enter the café directly from the adjacent railway platform, descending a short flight of steps just as passengers once did. The café also serves as a simple ticket agency, selling Tsugaru Railway tickets and entry passes. Notably, traditional ticket-punching tools such as datching machines and ticket clippers remain in active use—a rare sight in modern Japan.

The station is situated within Ashino Park (芦野池沼群県立自然公園), a sprawling prefectural natural park known for its scenic ponds, pine groves, and approximately 1,500 Somei-Yoshino cherry trees. The park is designated as one of Japan's Top 100 Cherry Blossom Viewing Spots, and the annual Kanagi Cherry Blossom Festival (late April to early May) draws large crowds. During this season, one of the most photographed scenes in all of Tohoku is the sight of a Tsugaru Railway train passing through a tunnel of cherry blossoms right beside the station.

Riding the Tsugaru Railway

A visit to the Former Ashino Park Station is best experienced as part of a journey on the Tsugaru Railway itself, the northernmost private railway on Honshu. The line offers a different character in every season. In winter, the famous Stove Train (ストーブ列車) runs from December through March, with traditional daruma coal stoves heating the vintage carriages as they traverse snow-covered landscapes. In summer, wind chime trains provide a cooling soundtrack, while autumn brings the suzumushi (cricket) trains.

The railway's diesel cars carry the nickname "Hashire Merosu" (Run, Melos!), named after another famous work by Dazai. The entire journey from Tsugaru-Goshogawara to Tsugaru-Nakazato takes approximately 45 minutes, passing through the heart of the Tsugaru Plain with views of Mount Iwaki, often called "Tsugaru Fuji," rising in the distance.

Surrounding Attractions

The area around Ashino Park Station is rich with cultural and natural attractions, many of them connected to the legacy of Osamu Dazai. One station away at Kanagi Station, visitors can walk to the Shayokan (斜陽館), Dazai's grand childhood home built by his father in 1907. Now a memorial museum, the lavish building—constructed with generous use of Aomori hiba cypress—houses manuscripts, personal belongings, and first editions of Dazai's works.

Within Ashino Park itself, visitors will find a bronze statue of Dazai gazing toward his hometown of Kanagi, as well as a literary monument. The park also features a children's zoo and auto-camping facilities, making it a destination for families as well as literary pilgrims.

Other notable nearby attractions include Unsho-ji Temple, where young Dazai was taken by his nursemaid and where he encountered the Buddhist hell scrolls that left a lasting impression; and the Tsugaru Shamisen Kaikan, where visitors can experience live performances of the powerful tsugaru-jamisen musical tradition. The Tachineputa Museum in central Goshogawara showcases the city's towering festival floats, which can reach heights of over 20 meters.