Nakamuraya Ryokan Main Building

Nakamuraya Ryokan Main Building: A Living Edo-Period Inn at Iizaka Onsen

Nestled in the historic Yuzawa district of Iizaka Onsen — one of the Three Great Hot Springs of Oshu — Nakamuraya Ryokan Main Building stands as a remarkable survivor of Edo-period architecture. This three-story, white-walled kura-zukuri (storehouse-style) inn has welcomed travelers for well over a century, offering a rare opportunity to sleep within a nationally registered cultural property while enjoying the natural hot spring waters that have drawn visitors since the 2nd century.

Iizaka Onsen, located in the northwest outskirts of Fukushima City, is steeped in legend. According to tradition, the mythical hero Yamato Takeru bathed here during his eastern campaign, and the celebrated haiku poet Matsuo Basho stopped by in 1689 during his famous journey documented in "Oku no Hosomichi" (The Narrow Road to the Deep North). The Yuzawa district, where Nakamuraya stands, preserves this centuries-old atmosphere of a traditional Japanese hot spring town.

Historical Background

The origins of Nakamuraya Ryokan trace back to 1688 (Genroku 1), when a family operating under the name Hanabishiya established an inn at this very location. For eighteen generations, the family ran a hatago (traditional travelers' inn) at Tsuchiyu Onsen. However, repeated floods and fires threatened their livelihood, and the family decided to relocate to the Yuzawa district of Iizaka Onsen.

In 1887 (Meiji 20), they purchased the existing Hanabishiya establishment. Three years later, in 1890 (Meiji 23), the inn was renamed Nakamuraya Ryokan and has been in continuous operation ever since — now under the care of the seventh-generation proprietor. The Main Building (Edo-kan) dates from the late Edo period (1830–1867) and is believed to be part of the original facilities from the inn's founding era.

In March 2011, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck the building with devastating force, causing it to be classified as severely half-destroyed. The seventh-generation owner, Mr. Hiroshi Abe, seriously considered closing the inn permanently. Ultimately, however, the decision was made to restore the building. Through four phases of meticulous restoration work carried out by specialists with cultural property restoration qualifications, the inn was returned to its former glory. In 2016, this remarkable achievement was honored with the Recovery Prize at the 32nd Fukushima Prefecture Architecture Culture Award.

Why It Was Designated a Registered Tangible Cultural Property

Nakamuraya Ryokan Main Building was registered as a national Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building) on April 21, 1998, by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology. The designation recognizes several key qualities of the structure.

The Main Building is a three-story structure built in the kura-zukuri (storehouse) style, with tiled roofing and a total building area of 209 square meters. Its exterior walls are finished in the traditional earthen storehouse method. While some later modifications are visible on the exterior, the building retains its distinctive form — the third story is deliberately smaller than the first and second floors, lending the structure a sense of visual stability and gravitas. This imposing and unusual silhouette makes it one of the most prominent landmarks in the town center.

Together with the adjacent Shin-kan (New Building), constructed around 1896 in the Meiji period, the two structures form an eye-catching pair. The Shin-kan is also a three-story kura-zukuri building but contrasts with the Main Building in having uniform floor sizes across all stories, with the upper floors being more open and spacious.

Architectural Highlights and Charm

Stepping inside Nakamuraya Ryokan is like entering a living museum of Japanese craftsmanship. The interior is constructed primarily from zelkova (keyaki) wood, and the reception area (chouba) preserves the atmosphere of a Meiji-era travelers' inn. Antique folding screens, hanging scrolls, clocks, and an irori hearth are found throughout the building, each telling a story of a different era. A century-old clock at the reception continues to keep time to this day.

On the second-floor exterior wall of the Edo-kan, two family crests — the Hanabishi and the Maru-ni-Chigai-Taka-no-Ha — are rendered in decorative kotee (plaster relief) work, a testament to the pride and care that previous owners invested in this building. The guest rooms feature tokonoma alcoves adorned with natural woods including maple, pine, and zelkova, creating an atmosphere that is both rustic and refined.

The Meiji-kan's top floor showcases particularly exquisite craftsmanship: the tokonoma alcove incorporates rare tropical hardwoods including rosewood (shitan), ebony (kokutan), and Siamese rosewood (tagayasan). Cedar straight-grain transoms (ranma) and delicate Art Nouveau-inspired glass paintings in the washroom represent the cutting edge of design from that era — materials and workmanship that would be virtually impossible to replicate today.

Throughout the inn, the edges of staircase treads have been worn smooth and round by generations of footsteps, while surfaces touched by countless hands have developed a warm, soft patina. The building itself serves as a tactile record of more than a century of hospitality. Today, Nakamuraya operates as an intimate inn limited to just five guest parties per day, ensuring a tranquil and personal experience.

Earthquake Recovery: A Story of Community and Resilience

The 2011 restoration of Nakamuraya is not simply a tale of rebuilding — it is a story woven from the generosity and solidarity of an entire community. When another historic inn in a different region decided to close after the earthquake, its owners entrusted their treasured lattice sliding doors to Nakamuraya. A loyal guest donated a zelkova pillar. With the support of the local commerce association and various subsidy programs, specialists with cultural property restoration expertise carefully brought the building back.

Some pillars were deliberately left without fresh paint, preserved as a visible record of the earthquake's impact. The restored inn, described as a patchwork of donated materials and heartfelt wishes, stands as a monument to collective resilience. The Fukushima Prefecture Architecture Culture Award's Recovery Prize in 2016 recognized not only the physical restoration but also the spirit of community that made it possible.

Hot Spring Experience

Nakamuraya Ryokan possesses its own private hot spring source, with water emerging at an impressive 67°C. The mineral-rich waters are channeled directly into the inn's baths at a comfortable 43–44°C. Guests can enjoy free-flowing, naturally sourced (kakenagashi) hot spring water — the hallmark of an authentic Japanese onsen experience. The initial sensation is pleasantly tingling, followed by a refreshing, clean feeling that speaks to the therapeutic qualities of the water. Private baths are available free of charge, allowing guests to enjoy the springs in complete privacy.

Visitor Information and Access

Nakamuraya Ryokan is conveniently located in the heart of Iizaka Onsen's historic Yuzawa district. From JR Fukushima Station, take the Fukushima Kotsu Iizaka Line (known locally as "Ii-den") for approximately 25 minutes to Iizaka-Onsen Station. The inn is just a short walk from the station. For those arriving by car, the Tohoku Expressway's Fukushima-Iizaka Interchange is roughly 10 minutes away.

The entire inn is designated as non-smoking to protect the cultural property. Please note that the Edo-kan guest rooms do not have private toilets — shared facilities are located a short distance away via a seven-step staircase. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the building.

Surrounding Attractions

Nakamuraya's location in the Yuzawa district places guests at the very heart of Iizaka Onsen's most atmospheric quarter. Directly in front of the inn stands Sabako-yu, the iconic public bathhouse considered the birthplace of Iizaka Onsen. Rebuilt in 1993 to recreate the appearance of its Meiji-era predecessor, it offers an unforgettable bathing experience — though visitors should prepare for water temperatures of 46–47°C.

Just steps away is the Kyu-Horikiri-tei, the restored estate of the Horikiri family, who were prominent merchants and landowners from the Edo period onward. Admission is free, and the grounds include a foot bath, a café, and the Jikken-gura — Fukushima Prefecture's largest and oldest storehouse, dating from 1775.

Iizaka Onsen boasts nine public bathhouses in total, making it ideal for a "yu-meguri" (bathhouse-hopping) experience. Other nearby attractions include Ioji Temple, associated with the warrior Sato Tsuginobu of the Genji era; the lively Iizaka Kenka Matsuri (Fighting Festival) at Iizaka Hachiman Shrine, counted among Japan's Three Great Fighting Festivals; and the Hanamomo no Sato park, which bursts with flowering peach blossoms in spring.