Nakamuraya Ryokan New Building

Nakamuraya Ryokan Shinkan: A Meiji-Era Storehouse Inn in Iizaka Onsen

Standing proudly in the heart of one of Japan's oldest hot spring districts, Nakamuraya Ryokan Shinkan (New Wing) is a remarkable example of Meiji-period dozō-zukuri (storehouse-style) architecture. Built around 1896, this three-story structure with its striking white-plastered walls and red-tiled roof has been welcoming guests to Iizaka Onsen in Fukushima City for well over a century. Registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in 1998, the Shinkan stands alongside its companion Honkan (Main Building) as a living testament to the architectural ingenuity and hospitality traditions of northern Japan.

A Legacy Spanning Centuries

The history of Nakamuraya Ryokan reaches back to 1688 (Genroku 1), when an establishment called Hanabishiya was founded at this very location. For eighteen generations, the family operated a hatago (traditional inn) in the nearby Tsuchiyu Onsen area. However, repeated floods and fires eventually compelled them to seek a more stable base, and they relocated to the Yuzawa district of Iizaka Onsen.

In 1887 (Meiji 20), the family purchased the existing Hanabishiya building, and in 1890 (Meiji 23), they officially established the inn under the name Nakamuraya Ryokan. The Shinkan (New Wing), also referred to as the Meiji-kan (Meiji Hall), was constructed around 1896, shortly after the family began operations. Now in its seventh generation under the stewardship of the Abe family, the inn has accumulated more than a century of continuous hospitality.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

The Shinkan was registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building) on April 21, 1998. The designation recognizes the building's distinctive dozō-zukuri construction—a traditional storehouse technique featuring thick earthen walls covered with white plaster, designed to protect against fire and the elements.

While the Shinkan shares the same dozō construction method as the Honkan, it presents a fascinating contrast in design. All floors of the Shinkan are uniform in size, and the second and third stories feature notably high ceilings, creating an open, airy atmosphere that differs markedly from the Honkan's more compact layout. Together, the two buildings form a visually striking ensemble that has become an iconic landmark of the Iizaka Onsen district. An old storehouse on the west side, dating from roughly the same period as the Honkan, is also attached to the property.

Architectural Highlights and Craftsmanship

The Shinkan is a three-story wooden building with partial single-story sections, encompassing a building area of 78 square meters. Its tiled roof and white earthen walls exemplify the dozō-zukuri style, which was favored in the Meiji era for both its fire-resistant properties and its aesthetic grandeur.

Inside, visitors will discover exceptional craftsmanship that is nearly impossible to replicate today. The tokonoma (alcove) on the top floor features rare and precious woods including karaki (exotic tropical wood), shitan (rosewood), kokutan (ebony), and tagayasan (ironwood). The transom panels (ranma) are made of sugi masame—perfectly straight-grained cedar—showcasing the extraordinary woodworking skills of Meiji-era artisans.

Delicate Art Nouveau-inspired glass paintings adorn the washroom areas, reflecting the influence of Western aesthetics that were making their way into Japanese design during the late nineteenth century. The staircase treads, worn smooth and rounded by over a century of footsteps, offer a tangible connection to the countless guests who have walked these halls before you.

Resilience After the Great East Japan Earthquake

On March 11, 2011, the Great East Japan Earthquake struck with devastating force. Nakamuraya Ryokan sustained severe damage and was classified as "major half-destroyed." Seventh-generation owner Abe Hiroshi considered closing the inn permanently, but ultimately chose to restore this irreplaceable piece of cultural heritage.

The restoration was carried out over four construction phases by specialists certified in cultural property repair. During the process, another historic ryokan that had decided to close donated its lattice sliding doors, and loyal patrons contributed zelkova pillars. Some columns were deliberately left unfinished as a memorial record of the earthquake. In 2016, this remarkable community-supported restoration was honored with the Reconstruction Prize at the 32nd Fukushima Prefecture Architectural Culture Award.

The Guest Experience

Nakamuraya Ryokan operates as an intimate retreat, welcoming a maximum of just five groups per day. This ensures a deeply personal experience in which guests can fully appreciate the atmosphere of staying within a living cultural property. The entire building is non-smoking to protect its heritage status.

The inn features two baths fed by its own private hot spring source. The water, which emerges at 67°C, is considered among the finest in Iizaka Onsen. The baths maintain temperatures of approximately 43–44°C, offering the characteristic invigorating heat for which Iizaka is renowned. One bath, named Yoemon-no-Yu after the inn's founder, features an authentic traditional style with no modern shower fittings—just pure, flowing hot spring water.

Guest rooms incorporate natural wood elements including maple, pine, and zelkova, creating a warm and understated elegance. The front desk area (chōba) retains its original Meiji-era ambiance, complete with an antique clock that has been ticking for over a hundred years. Folding screens, hanging scrolls, and an irori (sunken hearth) further evoke the atmosphere of a bygone era.

Visitor Information

Nakamuraya Ryokan is conveniently located in the Yuzawa district of Iizaka Onsen. From Fukushima Station on the Tohoku Shinkansen line, take the Fukushima Kōtsū Iizaka Line to Iizaka Onsen Station—a journey of approximately 20 minutes. The ryokan is about a 5-minute walk from the station. For those arriving by car, take the Tōhoku Expressway to the Fukushima-Iizaka Interchange, then follow National Route 13 for approximately 10 minutes.

Day-use bathing is also available, allowing visitors who are not staying overnight to experience the inn's renowned hot spring waters and admire the cultural property architecture.

Surrounding Attractions

Nakamuraya Ryokan sits at the very heart of the Yuzawa district, one of Iizaka Onsen's most historically rich neighborhoods. Directly in front of the inn stands Sabako-yu, the iconic public bathhouse that symbolizes Iizaka Onsen. Originally one of the oldest wooden bathhouses in Japan, it was beautifully reconstructed in 1993 and continues to serve both locals and visitors. Legend holds that the haiku master Matsuo Bashō bathed here during his journey along the Narrow Road to the Deep North in 1689.

Just steps away, the Kyū-Horikiri-tei is the restored estate of the Horikiri family, wealthy merchants and landowners who contributed to Iizaka's development from the Edo period onward. The grounds include Fukushima Prefecture's oldest existing storehouse (Jikken-gura, built in 1775), free foot baths, and a café. Admission is free.

Beyond the immediate neighborhood, Iizaka Onsen boasts nine public bathhouses scattered throughout the town, making it an ideal destination for a traditional onsen-hopping experience. The nearby Hanamiyama Park is celebrated for its spectacular spring cherry blossoms, while the Bandai-Azuma Skyline offers stunning mountain scenery accessible by car.