Ankokuji Temple Shakado Hall

Ankokuji Shakado: A Zen Buddhist Treasure in Tomonoura

Nestled in the quiet backstreets of Tomonoura — one of Japan's most beautifully preserved historic port towns — Ankokuji Temple holds a remarkable architectural gem: its Shakado (Buddha Hall), designated as a nationally Important Cultural Property. Built in the Zen style of the Muromachi period (mid-15th century), this elegant hall stands as a living testament to the profound spiritual and artistic heritage of medieval Japan. Together with the precious Buddhist statues enshrined within, the Shakado offers visitors an intimate encounter with centuries of devotion, craftsmanship, and the enduring beauty of Zen aesthetics.

History of Ankokuji Temple

The origins of Ankokuji Temple date back to 1273 (Bun'ei 10), when the eminent priest Muhon Kakushin — later honored with the title Hotto Kokushi — founded a temple called Kinpoji in the port town of Tomo in Bingo Province (present-day Fukuyama, Hiroshima Prefecture). Kakushin was a remarkable figure who had spent approximately five years studying in Song-dynasty China before returning to Japan, bringing with him deep knowledge of Zen Buddhism. In the following year, 1274, the temple's principal Buddhist images — the Amida Triad — were completed by the sculptor Kakuson.

In 1339 (Ryakuo 2), the shogun Ashikaga Takauji and his brother Tadayoshi established a network of temples called Ankokuji across every province of Japan, dedicated to praying for the souls of those who perished in the conflicts of the Nanbokucho period. Kinpoji was designated as the Ankokuji of Bingo Province, and the temple was renamed accordingly.

Though the temple declined during the upheavals of the Sengoku (Warring States) period, it was revived in 1579 by the powerful daimyo Mori Terumoto and his retainer Ankokuji Ekei — a monk-diplomat who played a significant role in the politics of the era. The Shakado underwent major restorations in 1599 and 1765, and a comprehensive dismantling restoration was carried out in 1933. Unfortunately, the main hall (Hatto) located behind the Shakado was destroyed by fire in 1920 and has never been rebuilt; only its stone foundations remain today.

Why Is the Shakado Designated as an Important Cultural Property?

The Ankokuji Shakado was designated as a nationally Important Cultural Property on April 25, 1927, in recognition of its outstanding value as a representative example of Zen-style (Zenshuyo) Buddhist architecture. Originally built as the Buddha Hall (Butsuden) of Kinpoji Temple, the present structure dates to the mid-Muromachi period (approximately late 14th to mid-15th century) and preserves the essential characteristics of Zen architectural design with remarkable fidelity.

The designation reflects several key aspects of the building's significance. The Shakado faithfully embodies the Zen architectural style that was introduced to Japan from Song-dynasty China during the Kamakura period. Its design retains a high degree of stylistic purity, making it an invaluable resource for understanding medieval Japanese Buddhist architecture. Furthermore, the hall houses Important Cultural Property statues — the Amida Triad and the seated figure of Hotto Kokushi — which together with the architecture create an integrated ensemble of exceptional cultural and historical importance.

Architectural Highlights: The Beauty of Zen Style

The Shakado is a compact yet profoundly elegant structure, measuring three bays (ken) in both width and depth. It features a single-story hip-and-gable roof (irimoya-zukuri) covered with traditional hon-kawara tiles. Despite its modest scale, the building displays a sophisticated array of Zen-style architectural features that reward careful observation.

One of the most striking features visible from outside is the pronounced upward curve of the eaves — a hallmark of Zen-style design that gives the building a sense of dynamic energy and lightness. The eaves are supported by large, widely-spaced rafters (omabara-daruki) arranged in a fan-like pattern, creating a beautiful rhythm along the roofline. Beneath the eaves, interlocking bracket complexes (kumimono) with projecting tail rafters (odaruki) demonstrate the refined structural engineering that characterizes this architectural tradition.

The entrance features paneled doors called san-karado — lightweight framed doors distinctive to Zen architecture — and above them, gracefully curved bow-shaped transoms (yumiko or nami-ranma) filter light into the interior. At the center of the hall, the ceiling takes the form of a mirror ceiling (kagami-tenjo), a flat, elevated panel that creates a sense of upward spaciousness above the altar, while the surrounding areas are left as exposed structural framework (kesho-yane-ura), allowing visitors to appreciate the complex wooden construction overhead.

Together, these elements create an interior atmosphere of profound serenity — a space designed not merely to house sacred images but to elevate the spirit of all who enter.

The Sacred Statues Within

Inside the Shakado stand two sets of Important Cultural Property sculptures that rank among the finest examples of Kamakura-period Buddhist art in western Japan.

The Karesansui Garden and Temple Grounds

The temple compound, designated in its entirety as a Hiroshima Prefectural Historic Site under the name "Bingo Ankokuji," preserves the atmosphere of a medieval Zen monastery. Behind the Shakado, the stone foundations of the former main hall still trace the outline of what was once a grand building, offering a poignant reminder of the temple's former scale.

The dry landscape garden (karesansui) dates to the Muromachi period and was restored by the celebrated 20th-century garden designer Shigemori Mirei, ensuring that its austere beauty continues to be appreciated today. Among the garden's notable features are ancient cycad trees (sotetsu) — said to have been planted by Ankokuji Ekei when he restored the temple in 1599 — which are designated as a Hiroshima Prefectural Natural Monument. The unexpected tropical presence of these cycads amid the restrained Zen garden creates a unique visual contrast that speaks to the cosmopolitan maritime connections of Tomonoura.

Cherry Blossoms and Seasonal Beauty

While the Shakado is impressive throughout the year, the temple is especially beloved among locals for its evening cherry blossom illumination in spring. Two cherry trees standing before the Shakado are lit up at night during the blooming season, transforming the scene into one of ethereal beauty as the illuminated blossoms glow against the dark silhouette of the ancient hall. The Important Cultural Property statues inside are also softly lit, creating an unforgettable atmosphere that harmonizes natural beauty with spiritual solemnity. During this period, visiting hours are extended until 22:00.

Exploring Tomonoura: The Surrounding Area

Ankokuji Temple sits within Tomonoura, a port town recognized as a Japan Heritage site, a UNESCO Memory of the World location, and a Nationally Selected Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings — the only place in Japan to hold all three designations simultaneously. A visit to the Shakado pairs naturally with exploring this remarkably well-preserved historic townscape.

Nearby highlights include Taichoro Hall at Fukuzenji Temple, where Korean envoys once admired what they called "the most beautiful scenery east of Korea"; the Joyato Lighthouse, an Edo-period stone beacon that has become the symbol of Tomonoura; and the Ota Residence, a former homeishu (medicinal liquor) brewery designated as an Important Cultural Property. Boat trips to nearby Sensuijima Island offer coastal scenery and a chance to see the distinctive five-colored rock formations. The narrow lanes of the town center, lined with traditional wooden townhouses and old storehouses, provide an atmospheric setting for leisurely exploration.