Nanzenbo Sanmon Gate: A Unique Bell Tower Gate in Tomonoura

Nestled in the historic port town of Tomonoura in Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture, the Sanmon Gate of Nanzenbo Temple stands as one of the most visually distinctive structures in this celebrated Seto Inland Sea harbor. With its striking Chinese-inspired bell tower rising above a traditional four-legged gate, the structure embodies centuries of cross-cultural exchange between Japan and Korea. Registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property in 2014, the Nanzenbo Sanmon Gate offers visitors a rare glimpse into the architectural legacy of international diplomacy during the Edo period.

History of Nanzenbo Temple

Nanzenbo is a Jodo Shinshu Honganji-ha (True Pure Land Buddhism) temple founded during the Tensho era (1573–1591). It was originally situated adjacent to the well-known Fukuzenji Temple but relocated to its present site in 1716 (Shotoku 6) during the mid-Edo period. The temple occupies a quiet hillside position in the Kusatani area of Tomo-cho, surrounded by the atmospheric lanes and traditional architecture of Tomonoura's preserved townscape.

Throughout the Edo period, Nanzenbo served as accommodation for members of the Joseon Tongsinsa (Korean diplomatic envoys), who visited Japan on behalf of the Korean king to mark significant events such as the succession of a new Tokugawa shogun. According to the historical document Fukuyama Shiryo, in 1748 (Enkyō 5), scholars and scribes from the 10th Korean envoy mission gathered at Nanzenbo with Fukuyama domain scholar Ito Taisa to compose and exchange Chinese-style poetry — a vivid testament to the cultural diplomacy that flourished in this small port town.

Architectural Features of the Sanmon Gate

The Sanmon Gate is a remarkable fusion of Japanese gate architecture and continental influences. The base is a traditional ikken-ikko (one-bay, one-entrance) shikkyakumon (four-legged gate). Upon this foundation, a square upper story with an irimoya-zukuri (hip-and-gable) roof covered in hon-kawara-buki (formal tile roofing) was added to serve as a bell tower (shōrō).

All exposed woodwork is painted in bengara, a warm reddish-brown pigment derived from iron oxide, lending the gate an atmosphere quite different from the subdued tones of most Japanese temple gates. The upper level features katōmado (flame-shaped windows) on the front and rear faces, and circular windows (enmado) on both sides. The eaves display a pronounced upward curve, a detail that contributes to the gate's distinctly exotic character and recalls Chinese architectural traditions.

An ink inscription (bokusho) on the upper-level bargeboard (gegyo) dates from 1810 (Bunka 7), indicating that the bell tower addition was constructed in anticipation of the planned 12th Joseon Tongsinsa mission. This architectural expansion transformed the simple gate into the impressive two-story bell tower gate visitors see today.

Why Nanzenbo Sanmon Gate Is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property

The Nanzenbo Sanmon Gate was registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (building) on December 19, 2014, together with the temple's Main Hall. The gate earned this designation for its contribution to the historic landscape of Japan. Several factors make it culturally significant: its unusual combination of a four-legged gate with a bell tower upper story is architecturally rare; the use of bengara pigment and Chinese-influenced decorative elements such as flame-shaped and circular windows create an appearance that is unique among temple gates in the region; and its documented connection to the Joseon Tongsinsa missions provides tangible evidence of the international cultural exchanges that shaped Tomonoura's identity.

Connection to Miyagi Michio

The temple grounds also hold a connection to one of Japan's most celebrated musicians. The ancestral graves of Miyagi Michio (1894–1956), the renowned koto composer and performer best known for his masterpiece Haru no Umi (The Sea in Spring), are located within Nanzenbo's precincts. Miyagi's father was originally from Tomo-cho, and the family's roots in this port town add another layer of cultural significance to the temple.

Highlights and Things to See

When visiting Nanzenbo Sanmon Gate, take time to appreciate the vivid bengara-painted woodwork, which stands out dramatically against the surrounding traditional architecture. The flame-shaped windows and circular windows on the upper bell tower story are fine examples of continental design influence adapted to a Japanese Buddhist context. The sweeping curve of the eaves is best observed from a slight distance, where the gate's proportions can be fully appreciated.

The Main Hall (Hondo), also a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, was rebuilt in 1860 after a fire in 1822. It features elaborate carvings and bracket complexes (kumimono) typical of the ornamental style that became popular in Jodo Shinshu temple architecture during the late Edo period. Together, the Sanmon Gate and Main Hall present a cohesive picture of Edo-period Buddhist temple design in a port town setting.

Exploring the Surrounding Area: Tomonoura

Nanzenbo is located within the Fukuyama City Tomo-cho Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings (Judenken), selected by the national government in 2017. Tomonoura is one of the best-preserved historic port towns in all of Japan, retaining a complete set of Edo-period harbor facilities — a stone lighthouse (joyato), stepped stone piers (gangi), breakwaters (hato), a ship-watching station, and a ship-repair yard — the only port in Japan where all five types survive together.

Nearby attractions include Fukuzenji Temple and its Taichoro Hall, a national historic site where Korean envoys famously praised the view as the finest in Japan; Iozan Medical Temple, offering panoramic views from its hilltop location; Nunamae Shrine, with a Noh stage relocated from Fushimi Castle; and the iconic Tomonoura Joyato stone lighthouse, the largest of its kind in Japan. The town also served as inspiration for Studio Ghibli's animated film Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea, adding to its appeal for international visitors.

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Q&A

QWhat makes the Nanzenbo Sanmon Gate architecturally unusual?
AThe gate combines a traditional Japanese four-legged gate (shikkyakumon) with an upper bell tower story featuring Chinese-influenced design elements, including flame-shaped windows, circular windows, and strongly curved eaves. The entire wooden structure is painted in bengara (red iron oxide pigment), giving it a distinctive exotic appearance that is rare among temple gates in Japan.
QHow is the gate connected to the Korean diplomatic envoys (Joseon Tongsinsa)?
ANanzenbo Temple served as lodging for members of the Joseon Tongsinsa throughout the Edo period. The bell tower addition to the gate was constructed around 1810 in preparation for the planned 12th envoy mission. In 1748, Korean scholars and Fukuyama domain intellectuals gathered at the temple to exchange Chinese-style poetry, reflecting the cultural importance of these diplomatic visits.
QCan visitors enter the gate or climb to the bell tower?
AThe bell tower level is generally not open for public entry. However, the gate itself and the temple grounds can be freely visited and appreciated from the exterior. The Main Hall can typically be viewed from outside, though access may vary. It is advisable to be respectful of the active religious site when visiting.
QHow do I get to Nanzenbo Temple?
AFrom JR Fukuyama Station (accessible via the Sanyo Shinkansen and Sanyo Main Line), take the Tomotetsu Bus bound for Tomonoura. The ride takes approximately 30 minutes. Alight at the Tomo-no-ura bus stop and walk about 10 minutes into the hillside streets behind the harbor area. The temple is located at 1339 Kusatani-ko, Tomo-cho Gochi, Fukuyama City.
QWhat is the best season to visit?
ATomonoura is beautiful year-round. Spring brings cherry blossoms to the hillsides, while autumn offers warm foliage. The annual Otehbi fire festival (held in summer) and Hassaku no Umadashi festival are vibrant local events. Weekday visits offer a quieter experience of the traditional townscape.

Basic Information

Name Nanzenbo Sanmon Gate (南禅坊山門)
Cultural Property Designation National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building), registered December 19, 2014
Temple Denomination Jodo Shinshu Honganji-ha (浄土真宗本願寺派)
Temple Founded Tensho era (1573–1591)
Gate Structure Wooden two-story bell tower gate (shōrōmon); base: one-bay, one-entrance four-legged gate; upper story: one-bay square, irimoya-zukuri, hon-kawara-buki
Gate Dimensions Width (ketayuki): approx. 2.3 m; Depth (harima): approx. 2.1 m
Gate Period Mid-Edo period (gate base); 1810 (bell tower addition)
Address 1339 Kusatani-ko, Tomo-cho Gochi, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture
Owner Religious Corporation Nanzenbo (宗教法人南禅坊)
Access Approx. 30 min by Tomotetsu Bus from JR Fukuyama Station to Tomo-no-ura bus stop, then approx. 10 min walk

References

南禅坊本堂・南禅坊山門 — Fukuyama City Official Website
https://www.city.fukuyama.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/bunka/64123.html
Nanzenbo — Fukuyama Tourism and Convention Association
http://www.fukuyama-kanko.com/travel/tourist/detail.php?id=112
Tomonoura — Japanese Wiki Corpus
https://www.japanesewiki.com/jp/geographical/%E9%9E%86%E3%81%AE%E6%B5%A6.html
Tomo-cho — Wikipedia
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%9E%86%E7%94%BA
Miyagi Michio — Wikipedia
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%AE%AE%E5%9F%8E%E9%81%93%E9%9B%84
Registered Tangible Cultural Properties (Buildings) — Agency for Cultural Affairs
https://www.bunka.go.jp/seisaku/bunkazai/shokai/yukei_kenzobutsu/toroku_yukei.html
Joseon Tongsinsa Relics — Fukuyama City Official Website
https://www.city.fukuyama.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/bunka/64098.html

Last verified: 2026.03.24