Former Onomichi City Hall Momoshima Branch Office: A Showa-Era Gem on a Hidden Island
Nestled on the northeastern shore of Momoshima, a small island floating in the gentle waters of the Seto Inland Sea, the Former Onomichi City Hall Momoshima Branch Office stands as a quiet testament to mid-twentieth-century Japanese municipal architecture. Built in 1954 as the village office for the then-independent Momoshima Village, this two-story wooden building has witnessed decades of island life and now enjoys a remarkable second act as both a Registered Tangible Cultural Property and a creative cultural venue.
Momoshima — written with the character for "hundred" but read as "momo," meaning peach — is a place where time moves at its own unhurried pace. With a circumference of roughly 12 kilometers and a population of fewer than 400 residents, the island has no traffic signals, no convenience stores, and no bridge connecting it to the mainland. Reaching the island requires a ferry or express boat from Onomichi Port, a journey that takes you through one of Japan's most celebrated maritime landscapes. It is precisely this remoteness that has preserved both the island's natural beauty and the architectural heritage of its former government building.
A Brief History: From Village Office to Cultural Property
The building was constructed in 1954 (Showa 29) to serve as the Momoshima Village Office, the administrative center for the small island community. At the time, Momoshima was an independent village within Numakuma District, and this building was where residents came to conduct official business, attend community meetings, and participate in local governance.
Following municipal mergers, Momoshima was incorporated into the city of Onomichi, and the building continued to function as a branch office — the Momoshima Branch of the Onomichi City Hall. As administrative functions were gradually consolidated and the island's population declined, the building eventually fell out of active governmental use.
In recent years, the NPO ART BASE Momoshima, led by internationally acclaimed contemporary artist Yukinori Yanagi, took over stewardship of the building. The organization renovated it into a guesthouse and event space while carefully preserving its original architectural character. In October 2022, the building was officially registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, recognizing its architectural and historical significance.
Why It Was Designated: Architectural Value and Historical Significance
The former branch office earned its registration as a Tangible Cultural Property for several compelling reasons. The building exemplifies mid-Showa-period municipal architecture on a Japanese island, representing a time when even small, remote communities invested in Western-influenced public buildings that reflected postwar Japan's modernization ambitions.
Key architectural features that contributed to the designation include the building's semi-hipped (half-hip) roof form, its mortar-finished exterior walls with a distinctive washed-aggregate base, and its rhythmic arrangement of tall vertical windows that lend the facade a decidedly Western character. The louvered ventilation opening at the apex of the main facade and the four connected windows on the second floor are particularly noteworthy design elements.
Perhaps the most remarkable structural feature is the second-floor great hall, a spacious room equivalent to approximately 180 tatami mats in area. This impressive open space is made possible by a kingpost truss roof structure — a Western engineering technique rarely seen in modest island buildings of this era. The truss spans more than 10 meters without intermediate support columns, creating a grand interior that served as both an assembly hall with a stage and gallery seating. On the first floor, the original counter-fitted office area preserves the atmosphere of a mid-century Japanese municipal workspace.
Highlights and Attractions
The Kingpost Truss Great Hall
The second-floor great hall is the building's crown jewel. The renovation by ART BASE Momoshima deliberately exposed the kingpost truss structure, transforming what was once hidden above a ceiling into a dramatic architectural feature. Visitors can gaze upward at the elegant timber framework while standing in a vast, light-filled space that now hosts art exhibitions, weddings, and cultural events. The hall can accommodate up to 10 overnight guests when used as a guesthouse.
Western-Style Exterior with Island Character
The building's facade presents a handsome composition of mortar walls, evenly spaced vertical windows, and a distinctive louvered gable vent. The washed-aggregate finish at the base adds textural interest, while the four-pane window cluster on the second floor creates a focal point that distinguishes this building from typical rural government offices of its era. Standing before the building, one can easily imagine the pride this structure must have represented for the small island community in the 1950s.
A Living Cultural Property
Unlike many registered cultural properties that can only be viewed from the outside, this building invites visitors to step inside and experience its spaces firsthand. Through ART BASE Momoshima's programs, guests can stay overnight in the historic hall, attend art events, or even rent the entire building for private functions. This active use ensures that the building remains a living part of the community rather than a static monument.
ART BASE Momoshima: The Creative Force Behind the Revival
The story of this building's revival is inseparable from the story of ART BASE Momoshima. Founded in 2012 by contemporary artist Yukinori Yanagi — known internationally for the Inujima Art Project "Seirensho" — the NPO has transformed multiple abandoned structures across the island into art venues and creative spaces.
In addition to the former branch office, ART BASE Momoshima operates out of a renovated former middle school that serves as the main art center, and the "Nisshokan," a restored 1960s-era cinema that now houses permanent art installations. The organization also runs "Goemon House," a guesthouse in a renovated island home featuring contemporary art and a traditional iron bathtub.
ART BASE Momoshima's activities have drawn international attention, with works by artists whose pieces are held in collections at institutions such as the Museum of Modern Art in New York and the Tate Gallery in London on display in these island venues. The organization's mission extends beyond art exhibition to encompass the creative revitalization of island life itself.
Surrounding Area and Nearby Attractions
Momoshima offers a variety of experiences beyond the former branch office. The island's compact size makes it ideal for exploration on foot or by bicycle — free rental bicycles are available at the port.
Nature lovers will appreciate the island's pristine beaches, hiking trails up Jūmonji Mountain, and opportunities for sea kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding during warmer months. The island is also known for its strawberry farms, which open for picking from March to May.
Cultural highlights include the Yumi Shinji (Archery Ritual) at Momoshima Hachiman Shrine, a traditional ceremony held each January with roots dating back to the 15th century. This custom originated when members of the Akamatsu clan, who fled to the island after the Kakitsu Rebellion of 1441, practiced archery in preparation for possible pursuit by shogunate forces.
The nearby city of Onomichi, from which ferries depart, is itself a treasure trove of cultural attractions. With its temple-lined hillside paths, nostalgic shopping streets, and position as the starting point of the famous Shimanami Kaido cycling route, Onomichi makes an excellent companion destination for a visit to Momoshima.
Practical Information for Visitors
Momoshima is accessible exclusively by boat. From Onomichi Port (adjacent to JR Onomichi Station), the Bingo Shosen ferry company operates regular services to the island's Fukuda Port. The express boat takes approximately 25 minutes, while the car ferry takes about 45 minutes. Services from Tsuneishi Port in Fukuyama City are also available, with the ferry crossing taking roughly 10–12 minutes.
ART BASE Momoshima facilities, including the former branch office, operate on a reservation-only basis. Visitors should contact the organization in advance to arrange tours, overnight stays, or event bookings. The guided tour, which includes lunch, typically lasts about three hours and covers multiple art venues across the island.
As the island has very limited dining and shopping options, visitors are advised to plan accordingly. Bringing some provisions from Onomichi is recommended, though a reservation-based café at the main ART BASE facility offers meals using local island ingredients.
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Q＆A
- How do I get to Momoshima Island?
- Take a ferry or express boat from Onomichi Port (next to JR Onomichi Station). The express boat takes about 25 minutes, and the ferry takes about 45 minutes. You can also depart from Tsuneishi Port in Fukuyama City, which is a shorter crossing of about 10–12 minutes by ferry. Note that no bridge connects the island to the mainland, so boat travel is the only option.
- Can I stay overnight in the former branch office building?
- Yes. The building has been renovated into a guesthouse and event space by NPO ART BASE Momoshima. The second-floor great hall, with its exposed kingpost truss ceiling, can accommodate up to 10 guests for overnight stays. The entire building can also be rented for private events such as weddings and gatherings. Advance reservation is required.
- Is English-language support available on the island?
- Momoshima is a small, predominantly Japanese-speaking community. While ART BASE Momoshima has hosted international visitors and artists, English-language support may be limited. It is advisable to arrange your visit in advance and, if possible, travel with someone who speaks Japanese or use a translation app.
- What is the best season to visit Momoshima?
- Spring (March–May) is ideal for pleasant weather and strawberry picking. Summer offers water activities such as kayaking and SUP. Autumn provides comfortable temperatures and clear skies. Winter is quieter but the annual Yumi Shinji archery ritual in January is a unique cultural experience. ART BASE Momoshima's annual exhibitions are typically held in autumn — check their schedule for specific dates.
- What other art venues can I visit on Momoshima?
- In addition to the former branch office, ART BASE Momoshima operates the main art center (in the former Momoshima Junior High School), the Nisshokan gallery (a restored 1960s cinema featuring Yukinori Yanagi's "Hinomaru Illumination"), and "Goemon House" — a guesthouse with contemporary art and a large traditional iron bathtub. All facilities are reservation-only.
Basic Information
| Name | Former Onomichi City Hall Momoshima Branch Office (旧尾道市役所百島支所庁舎) |
|---|---|
| Cultural Property Designation | Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building) — Registered October 31, 2022 |
| Construction Year | 1954 (Showa 29) |
| Structure | Wood-frame, 2-story, semi-hipped roof with iron sheet roofing; building area 251 m² |
| Address | 1316-1 Aza Gō, Momoshima-chō, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture |
| Owner | NPO ART BASE Momoshima |
| Access | From JR Onomichi Station: walk to Onomichi Port, then express boat (~25 min) or ferry (~45 min) to Fukuda Port on Momoshima; approximately 10 minutes on foot from the port |
| Visiting | By reservation only; contact ART BASE Momoshima in advance (Tel: 0848-73-5105) |
References
- 文化遺産オンライン — 旧尾道市役所百島支所庁舎
- https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/547681
- 中国新聞デジタル — 旧尾道市役所百島支所庁舎、益田の新比惠家住宅主屋など登録有形文化財へ
- https://www.chugoku-np.co.jp/articles/-/192205
- ART BASE 百島 | YANAGI+ARTBASE
- https://yanagi-artbase.com/art-base-momoshima/
- アートベース百島｜ART BASE MOMOSHIMA 公式サイト
- https://artbasemomoshima.jp/
- 百島Net — 百島へのアクセス
- https://momoshima.net/access/
- 尾道市の観光情報 — アートベース百島
- https://www.ononavi.jp/sightseeing/museum/detail.html?detail_id=816
Last verified: 2026.03.26