Myojoji Temple Kuri: The Oldest Surviving Building of Noto's Greatest Nichiren Temple
Tucked into the wooded foothills of Hakui City on Ishikawa's Noto Peninsula, Myojoji Temple holds an extraordinary distinction: ten of its wooden buildings are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan. Yet among these treasures, one stands apart for its quiet authenticity. The Kuri (庫裏)—the temple kitchen and living quarters—predates all the others by roughly two decades and offers visitors something rare in Japanese temple architecture: an unembellished, working space built before the temple's golden age of patronage.
While the celebrated five-story pagoda and main hall showcase the refined craftsmanship of master carpenters working under the wealthy Maeda lords of Kaga Domain, the Kuri tells a humbler, more grounded story. Built by local artisans during the Bunroku era (1592–1596), it is the oldest surviving structure on the temple grounds and a precious window into early Edo-period vernacular construction in the Hokuriku region.
A Building from a Quieter Era
Most of the buildings standing today at Myojoji were commissioned by the Maeda family, the lords of the immensely wealthy Kaga Domain, beginning in the early 17th century. The third lord, Maeda Toshitsune, established the temple as a memorial site for his mother Jufukuin, pouring resources into the construction of a magnificent main hall, pagoda, founder's hall, and gates over a span of roughly seventy years.
The Kuri, however, was already standing when this grand project began. Constructed around 1592–1596—about twenty years before the main hall was started in 1612—it represents a different lineage of craftsmanship altogether. Rather than the polished architectural traditions of the Kennin-ji school of master carpenters who built the rest of the complex, the Kuri was the work of local Noto carpenters using regional measurements and time-honored techniques passed down through their community.
Why the Kuri Was Designated an Important Cultural Property
The Kuri received its designation as an Important Cultural Property on May 29, 1965, considerably later than the other Myojoji buildings, which were designated in 1950. This timing reflects both the historic significance of the structure and the careful research required to recognize its value.
Several qualities make the Kuri exceptional. As the oldest building at Myojoji, it is the only structure that predates the Maeda patronage era, providing scholars with a rare reference point for understanding architectural evolution at the temple. Its construction also preserves regional building practices—most notably the use of a 5-shaku 8-sun column spacing (about 176 cm), distinct from the standardized "Kyoma" measurements used elsewhere by court-trained carpenters. This regional dimension marks it unmistakably as the work of local hands.
The building's interior layout, with its earthen floor entrance, sunken hearth, board-floored kitchen, and living rooms arranged with practical precision, also represents an important and increasingly rare example of an early-Edo-period temple kitchen. Few comparable examples survive in such complete form.
Highlights to Explore
Stepping through the south-facing entrance of the Kuri, visitors are immediately greeted by a striking tsuitate (single-panel folding screen) bearing a large painted character for "dragon" (龍). The calligrapher and date are unknown, but the dragon holds auspicious meaning in Buddhist tradition and appears frequently in the Lotus Sutra, the central scripture of the Nichiren school.
Beyond the entrance, the building unfolds into a series of working and living spaces. To the right of the earthen floor is the kitchen, organized around a traditional irori sunken hearth. The board-floored corridor leads into the residential quarters, where two 8-tatami rooms, two 6-tatami rooms, and two 4-tatami rooms are arranged in a remarkably orderly grid. Wooden verandas wrap the western and northern sides, with a transitional irikawa space mediating between interior and exterior.
Look closely at the nageshi (horizontal beams connecting the columns) and the kamoi (lintels that support sliding doors). These elements preserve old structural conventions that were rapidly disappearing by the time the Maeda-sponsored buildings were erected. The deliberate restraint of the Kuri—no decorative alcoves, no shoin-style writing nooks, no ornamental shelving—reveals a building purpose-built for daily monastic life rather than ceremonial display.
One of the most curious features lies beneath the floor: a stone-lined cellar accessed by digging down into the earth. Once used for cool storage, it remains in service as a storehouse today.
Restoration and Survival
By the mid-20th century, centuries of modifications and natural deterioration had altered the Kuri considerably. Successive renovations had obscured much of its original form, and the building was suffering from significant decay. In 1967, a thorough dismantling and restoration project was undertaken to return the structure to its original appearance. The roof, which had at some point been changed to clay tile (sangawara), was restored to wooden shingles (kokerabuki), the original material. This careful restoration is what visitors see today.
Visiting Myojoji Temple
The Kuri is included as part of the standard Myojoji Temple admission, which grants visitors access to the entire complex of ten Important Cultural Property buildings as well as the celebrated gardens. Plan to spend at least 90 minutes to two hours exploring the grounds, as each building rewards careful attention. The Kuri is best appreciated after viewing the more elaborate buildings, as the contrast highlights its understated, lived-in character.
Photography is generally permitted in most exterior areas. Quiet, respectful behavior is expected throughout, as Myojoji remains an active Nichiren temple and the head temple of the school in the Hokuriku region.
Surrounding Attractions
Myojoji is located in the southern part of Hakui City, an area rich in spiritual and natural attractions. Just a short drive away is Keta Taisha, one of the most venerable Shinto shrines on the Noto Peninsula and the ichinomiya (highest-ranking shrine) of the former Noto Province. Its forested precincts and ancient atmosphere make it a natural complement to a Myojoji visit.
Chirihama Beach Driveway, the only stretch of sandy coastline in Japan where regular vehicles are allowed to drive directly on the sand, lies along the Sea of Japan coast within easy reach. The dramatic Noto coastline, with its rugged cliffs and traditional fishing villages, extends northward and offers spectacular drives. For those interested in continuing a cultural pilgrimage, the city of Wajima with its famous lacquerware and morning market is reachable in a longer half-day trip.
- 📍 Plan Your Visit to Ishikawa
- Find tours, activities & transport passes near Myojoji Temple Priest's Quarters
- [ Kenrokuen Garden & Kanazawa Craft Experiences ]
Q&A
- What is a "Kuri" in a Japanese temple?
- A Kuri (庫裏) is the kitchen and residential quarters of a Buddhist temple, where monks prepare meals and live their daily lives. In larger temples it is a substantial independent building, while in smaller temples it often doubles as the temple office. The Myojoji Kuri is a notably large and historically significant example.
- Why is the Myojoji Kuri considered special among the temple's buildings?
- It is the oldest surviving building at Myojoji, predating the rest of the complex by about twenty years. Unlike the other buildings, which were sponsored by the powerful Maeda family and built by elite carpenters, the Kuri was constructed by local Noto craftsmen using regional building conventions, giving it a distinctive vernacular character.
- Can visitors enter the Kuri?
- Yes, the Kuri is part of the standard temple visiting route. Inside, visitors can see the dragon screen at the entrance, the kitchen with its sunken hearth, and the living quarters with their preserved old-style beams and lintels.
- When is the best time of year to visit Myojoji?
- Spring (April to May) is beautiful for fresh greenery and cherry blossoms, while autumn (mid-October to mid-November) offers spectacular foliage in the temple gardens. Winter visits provide a serene, snow-covered atmosphere but require warm clothing and attention to local weather conditions.
- How does the Kuri differ from the more famous five-story pagoda at Myojoji?
- The five-story pagoda represents the height of Momoyama-period craftsmanship, with elaborate carvings and the work of master carpenters from the Kennin-ji lineage. The Kuri represents the opposite end of the spectrum: a functional, locally built structure designed for daily use rather than visual display. Together, they show two distinct sides of Japanese temple architecture.
Basic Information
| Name | Myojoji Temple Kuri (妙成寺庫裏) |
|---|---|
| Designation | Important Cultural Property of Japan (Designated May 29, 1965) |
| Construction Period | Bunroku era (1592–1596), early Edo period |
| Builder | Local Noto carpenters (specific names unknown) |
| Structure | 9 bays by 5 bays, single-story, gabled roof (kirizuma-zukuri), gable-end entrance, originally wooden shingled roof (kokerabuki), restored from later tile roof |
| Owner | Myojoji Temple |
| Address | Takidanimachi, Hakui City, Ishikawa Prefecture |
| Major Restoration | 1967 (Showa 42), full dismantling and restoration to original form |
| Access | From JR Hakui Station, Hokutetsu Noto Bus toward Tomi/Takahama, alight at Myojoji-guchi (about 20 minutes), then approximately 10 minutes on foot |
References
- 妙成寺書院・庫裏 | 石川県 (Ishikawa Prefecture Official Site)
- https://www.pref.ishikawa.lg.jp/kyoiku/bunkazai/kenzoubutu/6.html
- 庫裡 | 妙成寺公式ホームページ (Myojoji Official Site)
- http://myojoji-noto.jp/property/10.html
- 本山妙成寺 | ほっと石川旅ねっと (Hot Ishikawa Travel Net)
- https://www.hot-ishikawa.jp/spot/detail_6477.html
- 妙成寺 - Wikipedia
- https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/妙成寺
Last verified: 2026.04.19