Manpukuji Temple: A Living Legacy of Chinese Zen Buddhism in Japan

Nestled in the historic city of Uji, Kyoto Prefecture, Manpukuji Temple stands as a remarkable testament to the cultural exchange between China and Japan during the Edo period. In December 2024, this architectural treasure achieved a significant milestone when three of its main buildings were designated as National Treasures, marking the first such recognition in the temple's 363-year history. This hidden gem offers visitors an extraordinary journey into authentic Chinese Ming Dynasty architecture, rarely seen elsewhere in Japan.

The Historic Significance of the 2024 National Treasure Designation

The designation of the Hatto (Dharma Hall), Daiohoden (Main Hall), and Tennoden (Heavenly Kings Hall) as National Treasures represents recognition of Manpukuji's unique architectural and cultural value. These three buildings exemplify the successful integration of Chinese Buddhist architectural traditions into Japanese religious culture, creating a distinctive style that influenced temple construction throughout the country.

What makes this designation particularly significant is the preservation of the original Ming Dynasty architectural style, complete with features such as the distinctive "Obaku ceiling" (arched ceilings resembling a dragon's belly), circular windows, and peach-shaped decorative carvings on doors believed to ward off evil spirits. The buildings showcase the use of rare Sumatran teak wood, making Daiohoden the largest historical structure in Japan constructed with this precious material.

The Vision of Zen Master Ingen

Founded in 1661 by the Chinese Zen master Yinyuan Longqi (known as Ingen Ryuki in Japanese), Manpukuji represents the headquarters of the Obaku school of Zen Buddhism, the last of Japan's three major Zen traditions to arrive from China. Ingen, who came to Japan in 1654 at age 63, brought not only Buddhist teachings but also numerous cultural innovations that transformed Japanese daily life.

His contributions extended far beyond religion: Ingen introduced sencha tea brewing methods, various vegetables including the green beans that bear his name (ingen-mame), lotus root, watermelon, and the distinctive Fucha vegetarian cuisine. He also brought printing techniques, the Ming typeface still used in Japanese publishing, and even the practice of using dining tables and chairs, revolutionary in a culture accustomed to floor seating.

Architectural Marvel: The Dragon Layout

Manpukuji's architectural layout is designed to represent a dragon when viewed from above, earning it the nickname "Dragon Temple Complex." The buildings are arranged symmetrically along a central axis, connected by covered corridors that allow religious ceremonies to proceed regardless of weather conditions.

The dragon-scale stone pathway (called Sekijo) features diamond-shaped flat stones arranged between two stone strips, representing the dragon's spine. Historically, only the head priest and distinguished monks could walk on the central diamond pattern, while training monks used the narrow side paths. Today, all visitors are welcome to walk this symbolic pathway.

The architectural highlights include distinctive Chinese elements rarely seen in Japanese temples: the swastika-pattern balustrades, brightly colored decorations typical of Chinese temples, and the unique roof ridge tiles shaped like makara (mythical sea creatures from Hindu mythology).

The Spiritual Heart: Main Buildings and Buddha Statues

The Tennoden (Heavenly Kings Hall) serves as the temple's welcoming gateway, housing the beloved Hotei statue (Maitreya Buddha), whose jovial expression greets all visitors. This representation of Maitreya as the laughing Buddha reflects the Chinese Buddhist tradition, differing from typical Japanese depictions.

The Daiohoden (Main Hall) contains the principal image of Shakyamuni Buddha, flanked by his disciples Mahakasyapa and Ananda. The hall also houses eighteen Rakan (Arhat) statues, including the famous Ragora statue that reveals Buddha's face within its opened belly, symbolizing that Buddha nature resides within everyone.

The recently designated National Treasure Hatto (Dharma Hall) features the distinctive Obaku architectural style with its elegant arched ceiling and serves as the venue for important ceremonies and dharma talks.

The Famous Kaipan: The Fish-Shaped Drum

One of Manpukuji's most photographed features is the wooden kaipan (fish-shaped drum) hanging in the corridor near the dining hall. This large wooden fish, struck daily to announce meal times, symbolizes the vigilance required in Buddhist practice - just as fish never close their eyes, monks should remain constantly aware in their spiritual training. The sphere in the fish's mouth represents worldly desires that must be expelled through dedicated practice. This instrument is considered the predecessor of the wooden fish drum (mokugyo) used in Buddhist temples throughout East Asia.

Fucha Ryori: A Unique Culinary Experience

Manpukuji offers visitors the opportunity to experience Fucha Ryori, a distinctive Chinese-style Buddhist vegetarian cuisine introduced by Ingen. Unlike the more austere Japanese shojin ryori, Fucha cuisine employs generous amounts of sesame oil and features elaborate preparation methods including deep-frying and stir-frying.

The meal is traditionally shared from common platters at a table, reflecting the Chinese communal dining style. Dishes include specialties like sesame tofu, mock eel made from vegetables, and unique flower tempura found nowhere else. The cuisine balances six flavors - sweet, bitter, sour, salty, spicy, and mild - with the last being a uniquely Zen Buddhist addition. Reservations are required and can be made through the temple for groups.

Exploring the Surrounding Area

Uji offers numerous attractions that complement a visit to Manpukuji. The UNESCO World Heritage Site Byodoin Temple, featured on the 10-yen coin, is just a 10-minute train ride away. The area is renowned for its matcha (green tea) culture, with famous tea houses like Ito Kyuemon and Nakamura Tokichi offering traditional tea experiences and modern matcha desserts.

For those interested in Japanese tea culture, the streets between Uji Station and Byodoin are lined with tea shops offering everything from traditional tea ceremony experiences to innovative matcha ice cream and parfaits. The Uji River area provides scenic walks, and during summer, visitors can witness traditional cormorant fishing.