Thirteen-Story Pagoda

Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda at Sennichi Cemetery: A Kamakura-Period Masterwork in Tōno

Deep in the rolling hills of the Tōno district in southern Kyoto Prefecture, where ancient burial grounds blend seamlessly into forested hillsides, stands one of the finest stone pagodas from medieval Japan. The Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda (十三重塔) at Sennichi Cemetery in Kizugawa City is a designated Important Cultural Property of Japan, erected in 1298 during the late Kamakura period. Rising approximately four meters above a double-tiered stone base, this granite tower has endured over seven centuries of wind, rain, and earthquakes, yet remains in remarkably complete condition—a testament to the extraordinary stone-carving artistry of its era.

Historical Background

The Tōno district (当尾), straddling the border between Kyoto and Nara prefectures, flourished from the Nara through Kamakura periods as a retreat for Buddhist monks seeking solitude for their spiritual practices. These reclusive monks carved countless stone Buddhist images into the rocky hillsides and erected stone pagodas as devotional monuments, transforming the landscape into an open-air gallery of medieval stone art.

Sennichi Cemetery (千日墓地) is regarded as the oldest burial ground in the entire Tōno region, with origins stretching back to the medieval period. The name "Sennichi" (literally "thousand days") evokes the Buddhist practice of extended memorial rites. The cemetery contains a remarkable collection of stone cultural properties spanning from the Kamakura period through the Muromachi era, including this thirteen-story pagoda, a stone torii gate from the Kamakura period, twin Buddhist relief carvings (双仏石) from the Nanbokuchō period, and numerous other stone monuments.

An inscription partially preserved on the base of the pagoda records the date of its construction as the eighth month of 1298 (Einin 6), during the late Kamakura period. The inscription further reveals that the pagoda was erected as a memorial offering for a Buddhist nun, reading in part: "Reverently erected, this thirteen-story stone pagoda stūpa, for the purpose of [the nun's] liberation from the cycle of birth and death."

Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property

The Thirteen-Story Stone Pagoda at Sennichi Cemetery was designated as a national Important Cultural Property due to several outstanding qualities. First, it is an exceptionally well-preserved example of late Kamakura-period stone architecture. While many stone pagodas of this era have lost upper stories or their finials, this tower retains all thirteen tiers of its roof stones and the sorin (相輪) finial, lacking only the hōju (jewel) at its very top—a level of completeness that is rare among stone pagodas of comparable age.

Second, the sculptural quality of the Buddhist figures carved into the first-story shaft demonstrates the refined aesthetic sensibility of Kamakura-period stone carvers. Each of the four faces of the shaft features a seated Buddha in half-relief within a boat-shaped (funakata) niche, seated upon a lotus pedestal. The dignified proportions and serene expressions of these figures embody the artistic ideals of the Kamakura period.

Third, the structural sophistication of the pagoda—including the rafter-type moldings carved beneath each roof stone and the powerful upward curvature of the thick eaves—reflects a high level of technical mastery in stone construction that elevates this monument above many contemporaries.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

The pagoda is constructed entirely of granite (kakoōgan) and rises approximately 390 to 400 centimeters in total height. It stands upon a distinctive double-tiered base (nijū kidan), which gives the monument an imposing presence even before the eye travels upward along its thirteen tiers.

The first-story shaft (shojū jikubu) is the artistic centerpiece of the pagoda. On each of its four faces, a boat-shaped recess has been carved into the stone, within which a seated Buddhist figure rests upon a lotus pedestal in half-relief (hanniku-bori). These four figures, believed to represent the Buddhas of the four cardinal directions, display the sculptural hallmarks of the Kamakura period: serene yet authoritative expressions, naturalistic proportions, and careful attention to the flowing lines of the monks' robes.

The thirteen roof stones (kasaishi) are another highlight. Each is carved with a single row of rafter-type moldings (taruki-gata) on the underside, a detail that echoes the construction of wooden pagodas. The eaves are notably thick and curve upward at the corners with a vigorous, powerful line that gives the tower a sense of dynamic energy.

At the base of the pagoda, on one face, a square deposit hole (hōrō-kō) measuring approximately 22 centimeters on each side has been carved for the ritual interment of sacred objects. Inside, a further cavity of about 18 centimeters square was hollowed out, with a circular hole of approximately 6 centimeters in diameter piercing through the lower edge. The stone cover of this deposit chamber has been lost over the centuries, but the careful engineering of the space speaks to the ritual importance attached to the pagoda's construction.

Visitor Information

Sennichi Cemetery is an active burial ground that remains in use by the local community. Visitors are welcome to view the stone pagoda and other cultural properties, but should observe respectful behavior at all times. Please remain on the paths and avoid walking among the graves. The taking of ink rubbings (takuhon) from any of the stone monuments is strictly prohibited to protect these irreplaceable cultural assets.

The cemetery is freely accessible throughout the year with no admission fee. There are no formal opening hours, but visits during daylight are recommended. A small parking area is available beside the cemetery for those arriving by car.

To reach Sennichi Cemetery by public transport, take the JR Yamatoji Line to Kamo Station. From there, board the Kizugawa City Community Bus bound for the Tōno area and alight at the "Tsuji" stop. The cemetery is approximately a 15-minute walk from the bus stop. Alternatively, the walk from JR Kamo Station takes about 35 minutes on foot.

Surrounding Attractions

The Tōno district offers a wealth of related cultural sites that complement a visit to Sennichi Cemetery. Gansenji Temple (岩船寺), located about 1.1 kilometers away, is celebrated for its hydrangeas in early summer and houses its own Important Cultural Property thirteen-story stone pagoda, as well as a beautiful three-story wooden pagoda. Jōruri-ji Temple (浄瑠璃寺), roughly 1.6 kilometers distant, is home to a National Treasure main hall containing nine Amida Buddha statues and a stunning Pure Land garden.

The walking trails between these temples pass numerous carved stone Buddhist images (磨崖仏), including the Ōmon Butsudan-no-tani Nyorai-gata Magaibutsu, one of the largest cliff-carved Buddha images in the region. The Tōno Stone Buddha Trail is a popular hiking route that connects many of these scattered stone carvings through peaceful woodland scenery.

Kaijūzan-ji Temple (海住山寺), located farther to the north, possesses a National Treasure five-story pagoda and offers panoramic views of the Kizu River valley. The broader Kizugawa City area also includes the ruins of Kuni-kyō, the short-lived imperial capital established in 740 CE.