Toshinji Temple Gate

A Castle Gate Reborn as a Temple Entrance

Standing at the entrance to Tōshin-ji Temple in the heart of Shiroishi City, Miyagi Prefecture, the Sanmon Gate immediately commands attention. Unlike a typical Buddhist temple gate, this imposing two-story wooden structure was originally the East Gate (Higashiguchi-mon) of Shiroishi Castle — formally known as the Ni-no-maru Ōte Ni-no-mon, or Second Bailey Main Second Gate. Registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in August 2016, the gate is one of the few surviving structural remnants of the original Shiroishi Castle, bridging the gap between the feudal era and modern Japan.

Tōshin-ji Temple itself is a Jōdo-shū (Pure Land) Buddhist temple with the formal name Kudokuzan Taiyōin Tōshin-ji. Founded in 1597 by the priest Seirensha Ryōeki, the temple has deep ties to both the Katakura clan — hereditary lords of Shiroishi Castle — and, remarkably, to the legendary Sanada clan of Shinano Province. This extraordinary convergence of castle architecture, samurai heritage, and one of Japan's most beloved warrior dynasties makes Tōshin-ji a uniquely compelling destination for history enthusiasts visiting the Tōhoku region.

Historical Background

Shiroishi Castle served as the stronghold of the Katakura clan, trusted retainers of the powerful Date family who ruled the Sendai Domain. The first Katakura Kojūrō Kagetsuna, renowned as one of the most capable strategists in the service of Date Masamune, became lord of Shiroishi in 1602. Even after the Tokugawa shogunate's One Castle per Province edict of 1615, Shiroishi Castle was granted special exemption and continued to operate as the Sendai Domain's second castle for over 260 years.

When the Katakura clan established their seat at Shiroishi, they reorganized the castle town. Tōshin-ji Temple was relocated to its present site on the old Ōshū Kaidō highway in 1604, and the Katakura retainer Kokata Tango Nakatomo oversaw its construction. The temple soon became an important institution in the castle town, receiving a stipend of 501 mon from the second lord, Katakura Shigenaga, and holding the rank of first among the four principal temples of the domain.

Following the Meiji Restoration and the abolition of the feudal system, Shiroishi Castle was dismantled. The East Gate was first transferred to Sennen-ji Temple near Shiroishi Station. Then, in 1887, when the Tōhoku Main Line railway was extended through the area, the gate was moved once more to its current location at Tōshin-ji, where it was repurposed as the temple's Sanmon Gate.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

The Sanmon Gate of Tōshin-ji was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property (building) on August 1, 2016, alongside the temple's main hall. The gate earned this designation because it preserves structural elements from Shiroishi Castle's Ni-no-maru Ōte Ni-no-mon, making it one of the rare surviving remnants of the original castle complex.

As a three-bay, single-entrance gate (sanken-ikko-mon), the structure retains the form typical of castle gatehouse architecture. The upper story, originally a watchtower (yagura), was converted into a bell tower with a kirizuma-zukuri (gabled) tile roof. The gate thus embodies the transition from the turbulence of the late Edo period through the Meiji Restoration — a tangible record of how the former castle town adapted to a new era while preserving its heritage.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

The Sanmon Gate is a wooden two-story structure with a tile roof covering a floor area of approximately 13 square meters. Several distinctive features immediately distinguish it from ordinary temple gates and reveal its origins as a military fortification.

The most eye-catching elements are the large genjō-mado (gem-shaped windows) positioned at the center of both the front and rear faces of the second story. These hōju-shaped (jewel-shaped) openings were designed to project sound when the gate served as a drum tower in the castle. According to local tradition, a taiko drum was suspended on the second floor during the late Edo period to announce the time to the townspeople, and holes were opened in the structure to improve acoustic resonance. The floor of the second story still retains square lattice panels (kaku-gōshi) where the drum was once hung.

Circular windows (maru-mado) on the side faces of the upper story add further character to the gate. These features, combined with the imposing scale of the two-story yagura-mon (turret gate) form, give the Sanmon a presence far more commanding than that of a typical temple entrance — a fitting reminder that it was once designed to defend a castle.

The Sanada Connection: Graves of Oume and Daihachi

Beyond its architectural significance, Tōshin-ji holds a poignant place in Japanese history as the resting place of Sanada Yukimura's children. In the Summer Siege of Osaka in 1615, the legendary warrior Sanada Nobushige (popularly known as Sanada Yukimura) faced certain death. Recognizing the valor of his enemy, the young Katakura Kojūrō Shigenaga, Yukimura entrusted his children — including his daughter Oume and his second son Daihachi — to the Katakura general before riding to his final battle.

The children were secretly raised in the Ni-no-maru of Shiroishi Castle. Oume eventually became the second wife of Katakura Shigenaga in 1620, and the temple's mountain name "Taiyōin" derives from her posthumous Buddhist name, Taiyōin-dono Shōgen Jusei Daishi. She passed away in 1681 at the age of 78. Daihachi took the name Katakura Shirobyōe Mobunobu and was eventually accepted into the service of the Date clan, founding a Sanada branch that continues in the Sendai area to this day.

Behind the main hall, visitors can find the graves of both Oume and Daihachi standing side by side. Oume's gravestone is carved in the form of a seated Nyoirin Kannon (Wish-Fulfilling Kannon), and local legend holds that its pose — with one hand supporting the cheek — resembles someone suffering from a toothache. This gave rise to a folk belief that scraping powder from the stone and consuming it would cure dental ailments, earning Oume the affectionate nickname "the toothache Buddha."

The Main Hall and Other Temple Treasures

The main hall (hondō) of Tōshin-ji, also a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, was completed in 1831 after being rebuilt following the devastating Shiroishi fire of 1774. Its ceiling features a striking dragon painting by the Sendai Domain painter Sakuma Rokusho (1782–1863), which remains a treasured example of Edo-period art.

The temple's principal image is a standing wooden Koyasu Jizō (Child-Rearing Jizō) statue, approximately 90 centimeters tall, which conceals a small inner buddha figure within its body. The annual Koyasu Jizō festival is held on August 23rd, and local tradition holds that if even a single drop of rain falls on this day, safe childbirth is assured for the coming year — earning the statue the nickname "Nure Jizō" (Wet Jizō).

In 1648, Oume established Gessin-in Temple on the outskirts of Shiroishi to honor her father Yukimura's memory. The following year, upon learning that her mother Chikurin-in had died and been buried at Ryōan-ji in Kyoto, Oume enshrined memorial tablets for both parents at Tōshin-ji. Although the original tablets were lost in the 1774 fire, they were recreated in 2013 following restoration work prompted by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake.

Visitor Information

Tōshin-ji Temple is conveniently located in the center of Shiroishi's old castle town, along the route of the historic Ōshū Kaidō highway. The temple grounds are freely accessible, and the Sanmon Gate can be viewed from the street. The graves of Oume and Daihachi are located behind the main hall and are clearly signposted.

The temple is approximately a 5-minute walk from JR Shiroishi Station on the Tōhoku Main Line, making it easily combined with a visit to the reconstructed Shiroishi Castle, which is about a 15-minute walk from the station. From Shiroishi-Zaō Station on the Tōhoku Shinkansen, the temple is about a 5-minute drive.

There is no dedicated parking lot at the temple. Visitors arriving by car are advised to use the Shiroshita Hiroba parking lot near Shiroishi Castle (free, 81 regular spaces) and walk to the temple. Rental bicycles are available at both Shiroishi-Zaō Station and the Shiroishi Castle History Museum.

Surrounding Attractions

Shiroishi City offers a wealth of historical and cultural sites that pair perfectly with a visit to Tōshin-ji Temple. Shiroishi Castle, faithfully reconstructed in wood in 1995, stands at the heart of the city and offers panoramic views from its three-story tower. Visitors can try on samurai armor for a memorable photo experience. Nearby, the Kobori Samurai Residence (Koseki-ke) preserves the lifestyle of a mid-ranking Katakura retainer from the Edo period.

The Katakura Family Mausoleum, a short distance away, contains ten massive stone statues honoring nine generations of Shiroishi Castle lords and is well worth a quiet visit. History enthusiasts following the Sanada trail can also visit the tomb of Sanada Yukimura himself at the foot of Mount Atago in Shiroishi.

Beyond history, Shiroishi is famous for its local specialty, Shiroishi Ū-men — oil-free wheat noodles with a smooth, gentle texture — available at restaurants throughout the city. The Miyagi Zaō Fox Village, home to over 100 free-roaming foxes of six different breeds, is a popular day-trip destination about 30 minutes by car. For those seeking relaxation, the historic Kamasaki Onsen and Obara Onsen hot spring resorts are nestled in the nearby mountains.