Emyoji Temple Gate

Emyoji Temple Sanmon Gate: A Survivor of Fire in Matsushiro's Samurai Town

Standing quietly at the entrance to Emyoji Temple in Matsushiro, Nagano, the Sanmon gate is a remarkable survivor of nearly 350 years of history. Built in 1677 during the early Edo period, this wooden gate is the only structure of the original temple complex to have escaped the devastating fire of 1825, making it a precious witness to the era when the Sanada clan ruled this castle town. Registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in 2010, the gate welcomes visitors into a temple deeply intertwined with the Sanada family legacy and a charming legend involving apricot blossoms.

Historical Background: The Sanada Clan and the Ōbaku Zen Tradition

Emyoji Temple was founded in 1677 (Enpō 5) by Sanada Yukimichi, the third lord of the Matsushiro domain. The temple belongs to the Ōbaku Zen sect, a branch of Japanese Buddhism that traces its origins to Chinese Chan Buddhism and whose head temple is the renowned Manpuku-ji in Uji, Kyoto. Emyoji was opened by the distinguished Chinese monk Mokuan Shōtō (木庵性瑫), a disciple of the Ōbaku founder Ingen, who brought Chinese architectural and religious traditions directly to Japan.

The temple was established at the foot of Mount Zōzan along the banks of the Kanda River, a location chosen for its serene natural setting within the Matsushiro castle town. As a temple founded by the ruling Sanada family, Emyoji held an important position in the spiritual and cultural life of the domain. The temple grounds also serve as the resting place of Toyohime, the beloved wife of Sanada Yukimichi, whose mausoleum and grave can be found to the left after passing through the Sanmon gate.

Why the Sanmon Gate Was Designated a Cultural Property

The Sanmon gate was registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property (Registered Tangible Cultural Property — Buildings) on September 10, 2010, along with the temple's main hall and bell tower. The gate's significance lies in both its age and its distinctive architectural character.

The gate is a single-bay munamon (棟門) style gate with a kirizuma-zukuri (gabled) roof covered in san-kawara-buki (pantile) roofing. Chamfered square pillars with chimaki (tapered tops) rest on foundation stones, and above them, mitsuto (triple-bracket) sets support the ridge beam. The main pillars are connected by a nageshi (lintel), while otoko-bari and onna-bari (male and female beams) extend to the front and rear to support the eave purlins. The gate features single-eave han-shige-daruki (semi-dense rafters), giving it a refined appearance.

What makes the gate particularly noteworthy is its unique structural composition. While the overall design is distinctive and somewhat unconventional, the decorative elements — including the kaerumata (frog-leg struts) in the center bay and the carved decorative patterns (esama) — are entirely consistent with the architectural style of the late 17th century. This combination of structural individuality and period-appropriate ornamentation makes the gate a valuable example of Edo-period religious architecture.

A Sole Survivor: The Fire of 1825

In 1825 (Bunsei 8), a devastating fire swept through Emyoji Temple, destroying the main hall and most of the temple buildings. Remarkably, the Sanmon gate was the only structure to survive the blaze, standing as a solitary witness to the temple's original Edo-period construction. This makes the gate not just an architectural artifact but a symbol of resilience and continuity.

Following the fire, the temple remained in ruins until 1833 (Tenpō 4), when the eighth Matsushiro domain lord, Sanada Yukitsura — a notable figure who also served as a senior councillor (rōjū) in the Tokugawa shogunate — undertook the reconstruction of the main hall, mausoleum, bell tower, and priests' quarters. Yukitsura was himself a man of considerable artistic talent, and the main hall houses a statue of Hotei (the Laughing Buddha) that he carved with his own hands.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

Though compact in scale — with a frontage of just 2.1 meters — the Sanmon gate rewards careful observation. The chimaki-tsuki mentori-hōbashira (chamfered square pillars with tapered tops) demonstrate the refined craftsmanship of Edo-period artisans. The bracket sets and beam arrangement reveal influences from Chinese temple architecture, consistent with the Ōbaku sect's strong connections to Chinese Buddhist traditions.

Beyond the gate, the temple grounds offer several compelling attractions. The Chinese-influenced main hall features an unusual earthen-floor design (doma-zukuri), reflecting the Ōbaku tradition of maintaining Chinese architectural customs. The bell tower, also a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, complements the gate and main hall to form a cohesive ensemble of historically significant structures.

Of particular charm is the apricot tree in the temple grounds — said to be the third-generation descendant of the original trees brought by Toyohime from Uwajima in Shikoku when she married into the Sanada family at the age of fifteen. Legend holds that these were the first apricot trees to be planted in the Zenkoji Plain, and Toyohime is affectionately known as the "Apricot Princess" (Anzu-hime) for this contribution to the region's beloved apricot blossoms.

Visitor Information

Emyoji Temple is located in the Matsushiro district of Nagano City, an area renowned for its well-preserved samurai town atmosphere. The temple is open to visitors from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM, and admission is free. It is closed during the New Year period. The temple can be reached by car in approximately 5 minutes from the Nagano Interchange on the Joshinetsu Expressway (about 3 km). From JR Nagano Station, visitors can take the Alpico Kotsu bus bound for Matsushiro and alight at the Matsushiro area, followed by a short walk.

Spring is an especially rewarding time to visit, when the apricot trees in and around the temple bloom, connecting visitors to the romantic legend of Toyohime and her beloved blossoms. The quiet temple grounds offer a peaceful contrast to the busier tourist attractions in the Matsushiro area.

Surrounding Attractions in Matsushiro

Matsushiro is one of Nagano Prefecture's most historically rich districts, offering a wealth of cultural sites within walking distance of Emyoji Temple. Visitors can explore Matsushiro Castle, a nationally designated historic site that served as the Sanada clan's seat of power. The Sanada Residence (Sanada-tei) and the Sanada Treasure Museum provide deeper insight into the family that shaped the region's history for centuries.

The Bunbu Gakkō, a domain school founded in the late Edo period, has been beautifully restored and offers a fascinating glimpse into samurai education. The Zōzan Shrine and Zōzan Memorial Hall commemorate the life and achievements of Sakuma Shōzan, one of Japan's most influential scholars of Western learning, who was born in Matsushiro. Well-preserved samurai residences, including the former Higuchi and Yokota family homes, line the quiet streets, creating an atmosphere that transports visitors back to the Edo period.