Emyoji Temple Bell Tower

Emyoji Bell Tower: A Legacy of the Sanada Clan in Matsushiro

Nestled in the historic castle town of Matsushiro in Nagano City, the bell tower (shōrō) of Emyoji Temple stands as a quiet yet compelling testament to the enduring cultural legacy of the Sanada clan. Registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property alongside the temple's main hall and san-mon gate, this Edo-period structure invites visitors to explore a fascinating intersection of Zen Buddhism, samurai heritage, and traditional Japanese architecture in one of Nagano Prefecture's most storied neighborhoods.

Historical Background of Emyoji Temple

Emyoji Temple was founded in 1677 (Enpō 5) by Sanada Yukimichi, the third lord of the Matsushiro Domain. The temple belongs to the Ōbaku school of Zen Buddhism, the newest of Japan's three main Zen traditions, which was brought to Japan from China by the monk Ingen Ryūki in the mid-17th century. The head temple of the Ōbaku sect is Manpukuji in Uji, Kyoto, founded in 1661—just sixteen years before Emyoji was established in Matsushiro.

The founding monk of Emyoji was Mokuan Shōtō, a Chinese Ōbaku Zen master. The Sanada clan's swift adoption of the Ōbaku sect, which enjoyed favor with the Tokugawa shogunate, reflected the family's keen political awareness and adaptability as an outer lord (tozama daimyō) navigating the complex feudal landscape of the Edo period.

The temple suffered devastating fires over the centuries, including a major conflagration in 1825 (Bunsei 8) that destroyed much of the complex. Only the san-mon gate survived this blaze. In 1833 (Tenpō 4), the eighth lord Sanada Yukitsura undertook a comprehensive reconstruction of the temple, rebuilding the main hall (hondō), spirit hall (otamaya), bell tower (shōrō), and kitchen quarters (kuri). It is this reconstructed bell tower from the Tenpō era that stands today as a registered cultural property.

Why the Bell Tower Is Designated as a Cultural Property

The Emyoji Bell Tower was registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property (building) together with the main hall and san-mon gate, in recognition of its historical and architectural significance. The bell tower is valued for several reasons:

• It is a well-preserved example of an Edo-period temple bell tower rebuilt during the Tenpō era (1830s), reflecting the architectural practices and craftsmanship of that period.
• As part of the Emyoji Temple complex, it represents the deep connection between the Sanada clan and the Ōbaku Zen tradition, a relatively rare sect outside of the Kyoto-Osaka region.
• The bell tower contributes to the overall historical landscape of Matsushiro, one of Japan's most intact castle town environments, helping to preserve the cultural character of the area.
• It serves as a tangible record of the reconstruction efforts carried out under Sanada Yukitsura, a notable daimyō who also played a role in national politics as a member of the Rōjū (Council of Elders) during the Tenpō Reforms.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

The bell tower of Emyoji Temple is a traditional wooden structure designed to house a bonshō (Buddhist temple bell). Its construction reflects the standard yet refined architectural vocabulary of Edo-period Buddhist temple buildings, with sturdy timber framing supporting an elevated platform from which the bell hangs.

One of the distinctive characteristics of Emyoji Temple is the influence of Chinese architectural aesthetics, owing to the Ōbaku sect's strong Chinese roots. The main hall, for instance, features an earthen floor (doma) in the Chinese style, a relatively unusual feature among Japanese Buddhist temples. Visitors can also spot the Sanada family's iconic six-coin crest (roku-mon-sen) adorning the roof ridges of both the main hall and the san-mon gate, a powerful symbol linking the temple to its feudal patrons.

The san-mon gate, which uniquely survived the 1825 fire, is the oldest surviving structure in the temple complex and offers a striking first impression as visitors approach along the tree-lined path from the direction of Zōzan (Mount Zō).

The Legend of Toyohime: The Apricot Princess

One of the most enchanting stories connected to Emyoji Temple is that of Toyohime, the wife of the temple's founder Sanada Yukimichi. Toyohime was the daughter of Date Munetoshi, lord of the Uwajima Domain in Shikoku (present-day Ehime Prefecture) and a grandson of the legendary Date Masamune. She married Yukimichi in 1673 at the age of fifteen.

According to local tradition, Toyohime brought potted apricot trees from her family home in Uwajima when she came to Matsushiro. These trees are said to be the origin of the famous apricot orchards that now blanket the Zenkōji Plain, particularly in the neighboring city of Chikuma, where the spring apricot blossoms draw visitors from across Japan. A third-generation apricot tree descended from Toyohime's original plantings still grows on the temple grounds today.

Toyohime's grave and a spirit hall (otamaya) dedicated to her can be found within the Emyoji precincts, adding a deeply personal and romantic dimension to any visit.

Visitor Information

Emyoji Temple is located in the southwestern part of the Matsushiro district, along the banks of the Kanda River at the foot of Mount Zō. The temple is open to visitors from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM, and admission is free. It is closed during the year-end and New Year holidays.

The temple is positioned conveniently between two other notable Matsushiro attractions: the Yamaderaji Jōzan Residence and the Matsushiro Underground Imperial Headquarters, making it easy to incorporate into a walking tour of the area. The quiet, uncrowded atmosphere offers a peaceful contrast to the more popular tourist sites in central Matsushiro.

From JR Nagano Station, take the Alpico Kōtsū bus bound for Matsushiro (approximately 30 minutes) and alight at Matsushiro Station. The temple is accessible on foot from the central Matsushiro area. By car, it is approximately 3 kilometers from the Nagano Interchange on the Jōshin-etsu Expressway.

Surrounding Attractions

Matsushiro is one of the most rewarding historical districts in Nagano Prefecture, offering an abundance of cultural sites within walking distance of Emyoji Temple:

• Matsushiro Castle Ruins — A National Historic Site and former stronghold of the Sanada clan, with beautifully restored gates and stone walls.
• Sanada Treasure Museum — Houses an impressive collection of artifacts from the Sanada family's 250-year rule over the domain.
• Sanada Residence (Sanada-tei) — An elegant Edo-period residence of the Sanada lords, featuring refined gardens and traditional architecture.
• Bunbu Gakkō (School of Literary and Military Arts) — A rare surviving example of a han school where samurai studied both academics and martial arts.
• Chōkokuji Temple — The Sanada family's bodaiji (ancestral temple), featuring important cultural property spirit halls.
• Zōzan Shrine — Dedicated to Sakuma Shōzan, the renowned Bakumatsu-era scholar and reformer from Matsushiro.
• Matsushiro Underground Imperial Headquarters — Extensive underground tunnels constructed during World War II, now a preserved war heritage site.