Honjoji Temple Priests' Quarters

Introduction: The Kitchen Hall of Honjo-ji Temple

Nestled in the historic temple district of Sanjo City, Niigata Prefecture, the Kuri (Kitchen Hall) of Honjo-ji Temple stands as a magnificent example of late 19th-century Japanese temple architecture. Registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property in October 2021, this imposing structure forms an integral part of the architectural ensemble at the head temple of the Hokke-shu Jinmon-ryu sect of Buddhism. Together with the Main Hall, Guest Hall, Front Entrance, and Grand Study Hall — all five registered as cultural properties — the Kuri helps define the spatial character of one of Niigata's most significant religious complexes.

Honjo-ji Temple itself was founded in 1297 (Einin 5) by the monk Nichiin, a spiritual descendant of the great Buddhist reformer Nichiren. For over seven centuries, this temple has served as the spiritual headquarters for the Jinmon-ryu lineage, attracting devotees from across eastern Japan and the Tokai region. The Kuri, rebuilt in 1895 (Meiji 28) after a devastating fire, embodies the resilience and dedication of the temple community in preserving their sacred heritage.

Historical Background

The history of Honjo-ji Temple stretches back to the Kamakura period, when Nichiin Shonin — born in the port town of Teradomari in Echigo Province — established the temple on the plains of what is now Sanjo City. According to temple legend, Nichiin loaded Buddhist scriptures onto a white ox and vowed to build a temple wherever the animal knelt. The ox came to rest in the village of Usosone in Echigo Province, and there Nichiin founded Chokuzan Honjo-ji.

Throughout the medieval period, the temple enjoyed the patronage of powerful regional lords including the Yamayoshi, Uesugi, Nagao, and later the Tokugawa and Mizoguchi clans. The fourth abbot, Nichijin Shonin, greatly expanded the temple's influence during the late 14th century, traveling extensively to propagate the faith across northeastern Japan and the Tokai region.

However, the temple suffered repeated fire damage over the centuries. The most devastating blaze occurred during the Meiji era, destroying much of the compound. The current Kuri was constructed in 1895 as part of a comprehensive rebuilding effort. Despite subsequent modifications — including renovations in 1981 (Showa 56) — the building retains its essential Meiji-period character and continues to serve its original purpose as the administrative and domestic heart of the temple.

Why It Was Designated a Cultural Property

The Kuri of Honjo-ji Temple was officially registered in the National Cultural Property Registry on October 14, 2021, under Registration Number 15-0557. It was recognized under the criterion of contributing to the historical landscape of Japan.

The registration acknowledges the Kuri's significance as a core component of the Honjo-ji temple complex, which together forms one of the most architecturally cohesive religious precincts in Niigata Prefecture. The building's scale — with a registered floor area of 567 square meters — is exceptional for a temple kitchen hall, reflecting the importance of Honjo-ji as the head temple of a major Buddhist sect.

Several unique architectural features contributed to the designation. The central hearth room (irori-no-ma), consisting of two chambers totaling 24 tatami mats, contains a pair of pillars known as the "married couple pillars" (meoto-bashira). These pillars were salvaged from the former main hall, carefully re-hewn and incorporated into the new structure — a poignant symbol of continuity between the old and new buildings. The southern section, now used as the temple office, was originally an earthen-floored work area (doma), preserving traces of the building's practical origins.

Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest

The Kuri is a partially two-story wooden structure with a mixed roof of tile (kawara-buki) and metal sheeting (teppan-buki). Its primary facade faces east, presenting an impressive gabled front (irimoya-zukuri) to the temple grounds. The building is positioned to the southwest of the compound, standing alongside the Guest Hall (Kyakuden) to create a harmonious architectural grouping that defines the character of the precinct.

On the northern side, a private entrance (naigenkan) provides access for the temple's resident clergy, while the southern side features the formal Odaito Entrance, used for receiving important guests. This dual-entrance arrangement reflects the building's dual function as both a private residence and a semi-public administrative space.

The heart of the Kuri is its expansive hearth room, where the twin 24-tatami chambers create a generous communal space. The "married couple pillars" standing in this room represent a remarkable example of architectural recycling — the original columns from the pre-fire main hall were meticulously shaved down and repurposed, carrying the spiritual legacy of the earlier structure into the new building.

The Front Entrance (Omote Genkan), registered as a separate cultural property, serves as a connecting structure between the Kuri and the Guest Hall. Its elegant Chinese-style gabled porch (karahafu) decorated with three ornamental pendant carvings (gegyo) adds a note of formal grandeur to the complex. Beyond this lies the Grand Study Hall (Daishoin), connected to the Guest Hall by an arched drum bridge (taiko-bashi) — a compositional device rarely seen in temple architecture of this region.

The Legacy of Ishikawa Uncho

Honjo-ji Temple holds a special connection to Ishikawa Uncho (1814–1883), the legendary sculptor often called the "Michelangelo of Echigo." Born in Edo (present-day Tokyo), Uncho was invited to Sanjo by a local metalware merchant and eventually married into a local family, spending his later years in the area.

Uncho created numerous works at Honjo-ji and its subsidiary temples, though many were tragically lost in the fires that repeatedly struck the compound. Surviving works include carved animal figures such as a red ox at the main temple and other pieces scattered among the ten sub-temples (tatchu). His grave is also located within the Honjo-ji grounds, behind the main hall.

Guided tours of Uncho's works at Honjo-ji are available through the Sanjo Uncho-kai volunteer guide group, typically on weekends and holidays by prior reservation. The tours offer access to works not normally open to the public, providing a deeper appreciation of this master craftsman's extraordinary legacy.

The Sankien Garden and Setsubun Oni Odori

Beyond the Kuri and its associated buildings, Honjo-ji offers visitors the Sankien Garden (Three-Track Garden), a strolling pond garden restored in 1989 (Heisei 1) with support from local businesses. Located behind the Guest Hall, this tranquil garden features a pond with two small islands and is open to the public year-round. Each spring, the garden hosts the "Sankien Haru no Utage" (Spring Banquet), with outdoor tea ceremonies and musical performances.

Perhaps the most famous event at Honjo-ji is the Setsubun Oni Odori (Demon Dance), held annually on February 3rd. Considered one of Japan's three great demon dances, this dramatic ceremony dates back to the Muromachi period, when the temple's warrior-monks and local farmers joined forces to repel bandits. Five vividly colored demons — red, blue, yellow, green, and black — rampage through the main hall brandishing saws and axes, tools befitting Sanjo's reputation as a center of metalworking. They are eventually driven away by bean-throwing participants, symbolizing the expulsion of evil and the welcoming of good fortune. Children held by the demons are said to grow up healthy and strong.

Visitor Information

Honjo-ji Temple is located in the Nishi-Honjo-ji district of Sanjo City, easily accessible from several train stations. The temple grounds, covering approximately 6,000 tsubo (about 20,000 square meters), are open to visitors year-round, though some interior spaces and artwork are viewable only by prior arrangement.

From JR Sanjo Station on the Shin'etsu Main Line, the temple is roughly a 17-minute walk. From JR Kita-Sanjo Station on the Yahiko Line, it is about a 20-minute walk. The Sanjo City circular bus "Gurutto-san" stops at the Honjo-ji Kuromon-mae bus stop, from which the temple is a 3-minute walk. For visitors arriving by car, the nearby Sanjo Bosai Station and Sanjo Fish Market offer temporary parking, with free shuttle buses running during the Setsubun festival.

Sanjo City itself is renowned as one of Japan's premier metalworking centers, with a tradition stretching back centuries. Visitors to Honjo-ji can easily combine their temple visit with exploring the local cutlery and toolmaking heritage, sampling Sanjo's famous curry ramen, or visiting the nearby Tsubame-Sanjo area's factory outlets.

Surrounding Attractions

The area around Honjo-ji Temple offers several worthwhile destinations for cultural travelers. The Sanjo Betsu-in, a branch temple of the Otani sect of Jodo Shinshu Buddhism, stands in the city center and features its own impressive architecture. The former Tsutsumi Residence Garden, a beautifully preserved merchant's garden, is located about a 20-minute walk northeast toward central Sanjo.

For those interested in Ishikawa Uncho's work beyond Honjo-ji, the Ishidou Shrine in Shimoda, Sanjo City, houses additional masterpieces by the sculptor. Guided tours covering both sites are available through the Sanjo Uncho-kai.

The broader Tsubame-Sanjo region is famous for its metalworking industry. The Tsubame Industrial Materials Museum and various factory showrooms offer visitors hands-on experiences with the area's centuries-old traditions of knife-making, copperware, and other metal crafts. The area's culinary specialty, Sanjo curry ramen — a unique local variant featuring a rich curry-flavored broth — makes for an excellent meal after a day of temple exploration.