Takeuchi Genzo Memorial Museum (former Kosugi Town Hall)

Takeuchi Genzo Memorial Museum (Former Kosugi Town Hall) — A Hidden Gem of Plaster Relief Art in Toyama

Nestled in the heart of Imizu City in Toyama Prefecture, the Takeuchi Genzo Memorial Museum is far more than a typical local museum. Housed in a beautifully preserved 1934 Western-style wooden building that once served as the Kosugi Town Hall, this registered tangible cultural property offers visitors a rare window into the extraordinary world of kote-e — the Japanese art of plaster relief sculpture. Here, the legacy of master plasterer Takeuchi Genzo (1886–1942) lives on through his breathtaking works, including Japan's largest kote-e masterpiece, the "Twin Dragons" (Sōryū).

What Is Kote-e? The Art of Plaster Relief

Kote-e (鏝絵) is a uniquely Japanese art form in which plasterers use a trowel (kote) to sculpt three-dimensional images from lime plaster (shikkui). The plaster is made by blending slaked lime, powite oyster shell ash, seaweed glue (funori), sand, and fibers from hemp or straw called susa. During the late Edo period, as fireproof storehouses (dozō) became more common, plasterers began adorning these buildings with decorative relief works featuring auspicious motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, and deities of fortune.

The town of Kosugi (now part of Imizu City) was historically renowned for its skilled plastering tradition. From the Edo period onward, a guild known as the Sakan-kō organized local plasterers, establishing quality standards and mutual support systems. These artisans, collectively called "Kosugi Sakan," earned a reputation for excellence that extended well beyond the region.

Takeuchi Genzo — A Master Craftsman of Extraordinary Talent

Born in 1886 in the Sanga-Kamishinmachi area of what is now Imizu City, Takeuchi Genzo was the fifth son of Takeuchi Heizaemon (commonly known as Kankichi), a prominent plasterer who led a team of dozens of craftsmen called the "Takeuchi-gumi." Genzo followed in his father's footsteps, entering the plastering trade immediately after finishing elementary school.

His talent was evident from an early age. At just 15 years old, in 1901, he completed the plaster sculptures for the VIP reception room of the original Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. By 1911, at the age of 25, he was officially certified as a first-class plaster sculptor by the Imizu District Office. In 1919, he led a team of over 20 craftsmen across the sea to work on the construction of the former Korean Bank branch in Dalian, China — a building now designated as a key protected structure in the city.

Genzo's works are distinguished by their remarkable three-dimensionality. Unlike typical relief art, his creations project dramatically from the wall surface — sometimes by more than 60 centimeters — blurring the line between painting and sculpture. He also employed distinctive techniques such as embedding glass fragments and even light bulbs into the eyes of his figures, giving them a startlingly lifelike quality. He passed away in 1942 at the age of 56, leaving behind a rich legacy of works across Toyama Prefecture and beyond.

The Building — A Registered Tangible Cultural Property

The museum is housed in the former Kosugi Town Hall, a two-story wooden building constructed in 1934 in a Western-influenced architectural style. The structure features a hip-and-gable roof covered with Japanese tiles, clapboard siding, a symmetrical facade, and a total floor area of approximately 219 square meters. A distinctive siren tower (suimeidai) rises from the center of the roof, a reminder of its original civic function for sounding time signals and emergency alerts.

The front entrance is marked by a grand portico said to have been inspired by the Yasuda Auditorium at the University of Tokyo. Above this entrance, a mansard-style pediment is adorned with an elaborate acanthus leaf pattern in plaster relief — the handiwork of Genzo himself. The building was registered as a national tangible cultural property in October 2014, recognized for its architectural significance as a fine example of early Showa-era civic Western-style architecture enriched by exceptional plasterwork.

After the town offices relocated in 1976, the building served as the Kosugi Town Library. In 2001, it was converted into the Takeuchi Genzo Memorial Museum. A major restoration project in 2013 carefully returned the building to its original appearance, and it reopened in 2014 with renewed exhibition spaces.

Highlights and Must-See Attractions

Exploring the Surrounding Area

The museum is located in the historic Kosugi district, which retains much of its old post-town charm along the former Hokuriku-dō highway. A short walk from the museum will take you past several other points of interest:

• Kosugi Exhibition Hall (Imizu Kosugi Tenjikan) — Just a 3–4 minute walk from the museum, this former savings bank building (also a registered tangible cultural property) from 1900 features elegant Western-style interiors and additional kote-e displays.
• Kote-e Signboards Around Town — Local shops throughout the Kosugi area display original kote-e signboards, making a casual stroll through the neighborhood an open-air gallery experience.
• Kontai-ji Temple — A historic temple in the Kosugi area, a pleasant walk from the museum.
• Shinminato Area — About 20 minutes by car, this coastal district offers the Shinminato Bridge (the largest cable-stayed bridge on the Sea of Japan coast), the Kaiwomaru sailing ship museum, fresh seafood markets, and the atmospheric Uchikawa canal district, sometimes called the "Venice of Japan."