Chohoji Temple Pagoda

Chōhō-ji Tahōtō: A National Treasure Pagoda from the Nanboku-chō Period

Nestled among ancient evergreen forests in Kainan City, Wakayama Prefecture, the Tahōtō (multi-jeweled pagoda) of Chōhō-ji Temple stands as one of the finest examples of medieval Japanese pagoda architecture in existence. Built in 1357 during the turbulent Nanboku-chō period, this elegant two-storied structure has been designated a National Treasure of Japan — one of only six tahōtō pagodas in the country to hold this prestigious distinction.

What makes Chōhō-ji even more extraordinary is that the pagoda is just one of three National Treasure buildings within the temple grounds. Together with the Main Hall (Hondō, built 1311) and the Great Gate (Daimon, built 1388), these structures form a remarkably complete ensemble of late Kamakura to early Muromachi-era architecture. In fact, Chōhō-ji and the legendary Hōryū-ji in Nara are the only temples in Japan where the main hall, pagoda, and main gate are all individually designated as National Treasures.

The History of Chōhō-ji Temple

Chōhō-ji was founded in the year 1000 (Chōhō 2) by imperial decree of Emperor Ichijō, with the monk Shōkū — a disciple of the great Tendai master Ennin (Jikaku Daishi) — serving as its founding priest. The temple takes its name directly from the Chōhō era in which it was established. Emperor Ichijō's reign is famously remembered as the era when Sei Shōnagon composed "The Pillow Book" and Murasaki Shikibu wrote "The Tale of Genji," making Chōhō-ji a living link to the golden age of Heian court culture.

By 1017, the temple had grown to include a full complement of seven halls and twelve sub-temples. Originally located slightly west of its present site, the temple was relocated to its current position during the late Kamakura period, when the surviving National Treasure buildings were constructed over a span of roughly eighty years.

In 1666, Tokugawa Yorinobu — the tenth son of the great unifier Tokugawa Ieyasu and the first lord of the Kishū domain — chose Chōhō-ji as the ancestral mausoleum of the Kishū Tokugawa clan. The vast burial grounds on the temple's eastern hillside, spanning approximately 33,000 square meters, contain the tombs of successive Kishū lords (with the exception of the 5th lord Yoshimune and the 13th lord Yoshitomi, who both went on to become shōgun and are buried in Edo). This burial complex is recognized as a National Historic Site and is one of the grandest daimyō mausoleums in all of Japan.

Architecture of the Tahōtō: A Masterpiece in Pure Wayō Style

The tahōtō is a distinctive form of Japanese pagoda primarily associated with the esoteric Buddhist schools of Tendai and Shingon. Unlike other pagoda types, it has two stories — though the upper level is purely symbolic and offers no usable interior space. The name "tahōtō" (literally "many-jeweled pagoda") alludes to the jeweled stupa described in the Lotus Sutra, from which Tahō Nyorai (Prabhūtaratna) appeared to validate Shakyamuni Buddha's teachings.

The Chōhō-ji Tahōtō is a three-bay (san-ken) structure roofed with hon-gawarabuki (formal tile). Its most striking characteristic is the harmonious proportion between the lower and upper stories. The kamebara — the distinctive white, mound-shaped section connecting the square lower level to the cylindrical upper level — is notably low and compact, lending the structure an impression of graceful stability. The gentle slope of the tiled roof further enhances this sense of serene equilibrium.

While the Main Hall of Chōhō-ji combines wayō (Japanese) and zenshūyō (Zen or Chinese) architectural elements in an eclectic style, the Tahōtō adopts a purely wayō approach for its exterior. The kaerumata (frog-leg struts) are particularly celebrated for their refined beauty, and the powerful bracket complexes (kumimono) display masterful craftsmanship. Inside, however, the shumidan (altar platform) is executed in the zenshūyō style, featuring exquisitely carved karakusa (arabesque) patterns on its base. The openwork railing on the front of the altar — with its unique warabi-te (bracken-sprout) motifs and tomoe-pattern lattice set between the handrail and base — is a design found nowhere else in Japan.

An ink inscription (bokusho) on the central pillar (shinbashira) records the date as the 3rd day of the 10th month of Shōhei 12 — corresponding to the year 1357. This clear documentation of its construction date was an important factor in its designation as a National Treasure. The principal image enshrined within the pagoda is a seated statue of Kongōkai Dainichi Nyorai (Mahāvairocana of the Diamond Realm), believed to be the oldest Buddhist image at the temple, dating from its original founding.

Why Was the Tahōtō Designated a National Treasure?

The Chōhō-ji Tahōtō was first designated as a nationally important structure in 1904 under the Meiji-era cultural protection system. It received the elevated status of National Treasure on March 31, 1953, under the modern Law for the Protection of Cultural Properties. Several factors contributed to this designation.

First, the pagoda is recognized as one of the finest surviving examples of tahōtō architecture in Japan. Official records describe it as a masterwork among all extant multi-jeweled pagodas, praising the well-balanced proportions of its two stories, its stable and elegant form, and its superb craftsmanship in every detail.

Second, the ink inscription on the central pillar provides rare, definitive evidence of when the structure was built — a crucial piece of information for understanding the chronological development of medieval Japanese architecture.

Third, the combination of pure wayō exterior design with a zenshūyō interior altar represents a fascinating case study in how Japanese builders of the Nanboku-chō period navigated between native and continental architectural traditions. The pagoda stands alongside the Main Hall and Great Gate to form an exceptionally well-preserved temple compound from a relatively narrow historical window, something noted as very rare in the official designation records.

Highlights and What to See

Visitors to Chōhō-ji will find the Tahōtō standing to the right of the Main Hall, accessible without any enclosing barrier — allowing you to approach closely and admire the intricate details of the woodwork up close. The elegant kaerumata struts, the aged patina of the tile roof, and the gentle curve of the kamebara are best appreciated by walking slowly around the structure.

Beyond the Tahōtō itself, do not miss the temple's other National Treasures. The Main Hall (Hondō), built in 1311, is a beautiful example of the eclectic style blending wayō and zenshūyō elements. The Great Gate (Daimon), reconstructed in 1388 under an imperial decree from Emperor Go-Komatsu, is considered one of the most well-proportioned rōmon (tower gates) of the early Muromachi period. Its original calligraphic plaque was written by Imperial Prince Gyōnin of the Myōhōin.

Between the Main Hall and the Tahōtō, a small path leads uphill to the Chinju-dō, a tiny Kamakura-period shrine hall designated as an Important Cultural Property. The temple grounds are also renowned for their cherry blossoms in spring and peonies in early summer, earning Chōhō-ji a reputation as one of Wakayama's most beautiful "flower temples." The surrounding forest, composed of rare evergreen broadleaf trees such as chinquapin, holly oak, and bayberry, is itself designated as a Natural Monument.

Surrounding Area

Chōhō-ji is located in the Shimotsu area of Kainan City, a region steeped in history along the ancient Kumano Kodō pilgrimage route. Several ōji (subsidiary shrines) that once served as rest stops for imperial pilgrimages to the Kumano Grand Shrines can be found nearby, including the Fujishiro-ōji and Ichibō-ōji sites.

A short distance away in Kainan City, visitors can explore Zenpuku-in, a Tendai temple whose Shaka-dō (Shakyamuni Hall) is also a National Treasure — making Kainan one of the most concentrated areas for National Treasure architecture in the Kansai region. The nearby Kuroe district is famous for its traditional lacquerware industry, with a charming historic streetscape dating back to the Edo period.

For those with more time, the Wakanoura scenic coastline and the vibrant Kuroshio Market at Wakayama Marina City are within easy reach. The Kumano Kodō's Kii-ji Route passes through this area, offering opportunities for scenic walks that connect cultural heritage sites with stunning coastal and mountain landscapes.