Myōō-in Five-Story Pagoda: A National Treasure Built by the People of Medieval Japan

Rising 29 meters above the tranquil hillside of Kusado-chō in Fukuyama City, the Five-Story Pagoda of Myōō-in Temple is one of Japan's most remarkable cultural treasures. Designated as a National Treasure in 1953, this graceful vermilion tower was completed in 1348 during the turbulent Nanbokuchō period — and what makes it truly extraordinary is that it was not built by an emperor, a shogun, or a powerful aristocratic family. It was built by the common people of the surrounding community, who pooled their modest donations coin by coin to raise this magnificent monument to Buddhist faith. It is the oldest pagoda in Japan known to have been funded entirely through grassroots contributions, and it stands today as an enduring symbol of collective devotion.

A Temple Founded by Kūkai

Myōō-in Temple belongs to the Daikakuji school of Shingon Buddhism, one of the major esoteric Buddhist traditions in Japan. According to temple tradition, it was founded in 807 (Daidō 2) by the revered monk Kūkai — known posthumously as Kōbō Daishi — who is credited with establishing the Shingon sect itself. Originally called Jōfukuji (常福寺) and affiliated with the Ritsu school under the umbrella of Saidai-ji Temple in Nara, the temple's early centuries remain largely undocumented. Its transformation into a major religious center began during the late Kamakura period, when the fundraising activities of Ritsu school monks from Nara and the economic prosperity of the nearby medieval trading town of Kusado Sengen combined to provide the resources necessary for ambitious building projects.

The Main Hall (Hondō), also designated as a National Treasure, was reconstructed in 1321 in a distinctive eclectic style blending overall Japanese (wayō) architectural forms with Chinese (karayō) details — the oldest surviving example of this hybrid approach in Japan. The Five-Story Pagoda followed just 27 years later in 1348, and together these two buildings make Myōō-in one of only a handful of temples nationwide to possess two National Treasure structures on a single site.

Why It Was Designated a National Treasure

The pagoda was first designated as an Important Cultural Property in 1913, then elevated to National Treasure status on March 31, 1953. Several factors make it culturally and historically significant.

First, its age and rarity: it is the fifth-oldest five-story pagoda among all National Treasure pagodas in Japan, and the oldest in the entire Chūgoku (western Honshu) region. Second, its construction method: the inscription on the fukubachi (inverted bowl) at the top of the finial records that the nine-ring spire was raised on December 18, 1348, and that the pagoda was built through ichimon kanjin — a form of grassroots fundraising in which ordinary people contributed tiny sums. All older National Treasure pagodas in Japan were built under imperial or aristocratic patronage, making this the earliest known example of a pagoda built by the people themselves.

Third, the pagoda's interior preserves an extraordinarily complete set of original 14th-century paintings. The walls depict narrative scenes from the lives of the Eight Patriarchs of Shingon Buddhism, while the four inner pillars (shitenchū) bear images of the 37 deities of the Kongōkai (Diamond Realm) mandala — a key iconographic program of esoteric Buddhism. Side pillars, lintels, and ceilings are further adorned with karakusa arabesque patterns, flowers, birds, and celestial beings (hiten). Except for later-period replacements of the doors and the raigō (welcoming descent) wall behind the altar, the decorative scheme remains remarkably intact from the time of construction. A pagoda retaining its original painted decoration to this degree is virtually without parallel in Japan.

The Floating Central Pillar: Ancient Engineering That Inspired Tokyo Skytree

One of the pagoda's most fascinating engineering features is its central pillar (shinbashira). Unlike most pagodas where the central pillar extends from the foundation stone to the top, the shinbashira of the Myōō-in pagoda terminates at the ceiling of the first story and is effectively suspended — it does not touch the ground. This "floating pillar" technique is extremely rare and is understood today as a form of seismic vibration damping. By allowing the pillar to move independently of the surrounding structure, the building can absorb and dissipate the energy of earthquakes more effectively. This principle, known as shinbashira seishin (central pillar damping), was famously adopted in the structural engineering of Tokyo Skytree, Japan's tallest tower, completed in 2012. The fact that medieval Japanese builders intuitively applied sophisticated anti-seismic technology over 670 years ago continues to fascinate architects and engineers worldwide.

Highlights and What to See

The pagoda's exterior is always open to viewing, and its striking vermilion form set against the green hillside of Mt. Atago is beautiful in every season. In spring, cherry blossoms frame the tower; in autumn, the contrast between vivid maple leaves and the red-painted woodwork is particularly stunning. The pagoda is built entirely in the pure Japanese wayō style, with elegantly proportioned eaves that diminish gradually from the first to the fifth story, creating a sense of soaring lightness despite the tower's considerable height.

Beside the pagoda stands the equally magnificent National Treasure Main Hall, whose eclectic wayō-karayō style can be appreciated from the outside at any time. The temple grounds also include the Shoin (study hall), Kuri (kitchen building), and Goma-dō (ritual fire hall) — all designated as Important Cultural Properties of Hiroshima Prefecture — which can be visited for an admission fee of 500 yen. The Shoin features a beautiful "Crane and Turtle Garden" (Tsurukame no Niwa) between it and the Goma-dō.

The pagoda's interior is normally closed to the public. However, on the third Saturday of November each year, a special opening allows visitors to view the first-story interior with its magnificent murals and Buddhist statuary, including the Maitreya Bodhisattva (Miroku Bosatsu), Fudō Myōō, and Aizen Myōō — all designated as Important Cultural Properties of Hiroshima Prefecture. This annual event is a rare and unforgettable opportunity to witness medieval esoteric Buddhist art in its original architectural setting.

Myōō-in is also recognized as the 18th temple on the Sanyō Hana no Tera (Sanyō Flower Temple) pilgrimage circuit of 24 temples, with satsuki azaleas, camellias, and hydrangeas designated as its representative flowers. Lotus blossoms bloom beautifully in the temple's inner garden during summer, and the sala tree (śāla) — the symbolic flower of the pilgrimage — can be found on the hillside near the main hall stairway.

The Medieval Trading Town of Kusado Sengen

The prosperity that enabled the pagoda's construction came largely from Kusado Sengen, a thriving medieval trading town that once occupied a sandbar in the Ashida River directly in front of the temple. Active from the late Heian period through the Sengoku era, Kusado Sengen was a bustling commercial hub where merchants, craftspeople, and travelers gathered. The town was eventually destroyed by flooding and buried under river sediment, earning it the nickname "Japan's Pompeii." Extensive archaeological excavations from the 1960s onward unearthed a wealth of artifacts — ceramics, coins, tools, and personal items — that paint a vivid picture of medieval Japanese everyday life. Many of these finds are displayed at the nearby Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of History, making it an excellent companion visit to Myōō-in.

Nearby Attractions

Kusado Inari Shrine sits directly adjacent to Myōō-in and shares its parking area. Founded in the same year as the temple (807), this historic Shingon guardian shrine features a dramatic vermilion main hall perched 23 meters above ground level in a rare kengai-zukuri (cliff-hanging) style. Climbing the stairs to the top rewards visitors with a sweeping panoramic view of Fukuyama city. The shrine is counted among Japan's Five Great Inari Shrines and draws approximately 400,000 worshippers during the New Year holiday.

Fukuyama Castle, about 2.5 kilometers northeast of the temple, is famously one of the closest castles to a Shinkansen station in all of Japan — visible directly from the JR Fukuyama Station platform. The Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of History, located nearby, houses the reconstructed Kusado Sengen streetscape and extensive archaeological collections. For those with more time, the historic port town of Tomonoura — said to have inspired Studio Ghibli's "Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea" — lies about 30 minutes south by bus from Fukuyama Station, along the same route that passes near Myōō-in.

Q&A

QCan I see the inside of the Five-Story Pagoda?
AThe pagoda interior is normally closed to the public. However, a special opening is held once a year on the third Saturday of November, when visitors can view the first-story murals and Buddhist statues. Check with the temple or the Myōō-in wo Aisuru Kai (Myōō-in Lovers Association) website for the latest schedule and details.
QIs there an admission fee?
AViewing the temple grounds and the exteriors of the pagoda and main hall is free of charge. To enter the interior buildings (Shoin, Kuri, and Goma-dō, all Hiroshima Prefecture Important Cultural Properties), an admission fee of 500 yen for adults (300 yen for junior/senior high school students) is required. Interior visiting hours are 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM.
QHow do I get to Myōō-in Temple from Fukuyama Station?
AThe easiest option is a taxi, which takes about 10 minutes from JR Fukuyama Station. By bus, take a Tomotetsu Bus bound for Tomo from platform 5 at the south exit bus terminal and get off at "Kusado Ōhashi" stop (about 10 minutes), then walk approximately 15 minutes. Alternatively, buses toward Onomichi depart from platform 6; get off at "Myōō-dai Iriguchi" stop and walk about 15 minutes. There is a free parking lot with about 30 spaces for those arriving by car.
QWhat is the best season to visit?
AThe temple is beautiful year-round. Spring (late March to April) brings cherry blossoms, while autumn (mid-November to early December) offers spectacular foliage contrasting with the vermilion pagoda. The annual special interior opening in November is particularly recommended. Summer visitors can enjoy lotus flowers in the inner garden. The temple is generally uncrowded, offering a peaceful experience at any time of year.
QIs English signage or guidance available at the temple?
AEnglish signage at the temple is limited. It is recommended to research the temple beforehand or use a translation app during your visit. The head priest is known for being welcoming and accommodating to visitors. For group visits, contact the temple by fax in advance at 084-944-8881.

Basic Information

Name Myōō-in Five-Story Pagoda (明王院五重塔)
Designation National Treasure (designated March 31, 1953)
Year Built 1348 (Jōwa 4 / Shōhei 3, Nanbokuchō period)
Structure Three-bay, five-story pagoda with hon-gawarabuki (real tile) roof
Height 29.14 meters
Bay Width 4.363 meters (three bays)
Architectural Style Pure Japanese style (wayō)
Temple Name Chūdōzan Enkōji Myōō-in (中道山円光寺明王院)
Sect Shingon Buddhism, Daikakuji school
Address 1473 Kusado-chō, Fukuyama, Hiroshima 720-0831, Japan
Visiting Hours Grounds: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM / Interior buildings: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM
Admission Grounds: Free / Interior buildings: 500 yen (adults), 300 yen (students)
Phone 084-951-1732
Access Approx. 10 min by taxi from JR Fukuyama Station (Sanyō Main Line / Sanyō Shinkansen); 30 min from Fukuyama-higashi IC or Fukuyama-nishi IC on the Sanyō Expressway
Parking Free parking available (approx. 30 spaces, shared with Kusado Inari Shrine)

References

明王院五重塔 — Cultural Heritage Online (文化遺産オンライン)
https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/195800
明王院五重塔(みょうおういんごじゅうのとう) — Fukuyama City Official Website
https://www.city.fukuyama.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/bunka/64287.html
明王院(みょうおういん) — Fukuyama City Tourism Site "Etto Fukuyama"
https://www.city.fukuyama.hiroshima.jp/site/miryoku2023/288940.html
国宝 五重塔 — Myōō-in wo Aisuru Kai (明王院を愛する会)
https://myouo-in.jimdofree.com/
Myooin Temple — Fukuyama City Cultural Properties (Japan Cultural Heritage Information Site)
https://fukuyama.hiddenheritage.jp/en/3
Myoin Five-storied Pagoda — The Official Guide to Hiroshima (Dive! Hiroshima)
https://dive-hiroshima.com/en/explore/2209/
明王院 (福山市) — Wikipedia
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/明王院_(福山市)
【国宝】明王院 — Fukuyama Tourism Convention Association
https://www.fukuyama-kanko.com/travel/tourist/detail.php?id=19

Last verified: 2026.02.17