Honjuji Temple Main Hall

Honjuji Temple: A Flower Temple in Kinosaki Onsen

Tucked away on the hillside of one of Japan's most beloved hot spring towns, Honjuji Temple (本住寺) offers visitors a serene retreat from the lively streets of Kinosaki Onsen. Officially known by its mountain name Yōhōzan (養法山), this Nichiren Buddhist temple of the Hokkeshū Shinmonryū denomination has stood watch over the onsen district for nearly five centuries. Its main hall (hondo), a nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property, stands as a quiet monument to the resilience and craftsmanship of the community that rebuilt it after one of the region's most devastating natural disasters.

Affectionately known as the "Temple of Flowers" (花の寺, Hana no Tera), Honjuji welcomes visitors with seasonal blooms throughout the year, making it a hidden gem for those seeking to combine a cultural excursion with the pleasures of Kinosaki's famous outdoor hot spring baths.

Historical Background

Honjuji Temple was founded in 1538 (Tenbun 7) during the late Muromachi period by the monk Nichiju (日壽). It belongs to the Hokkeshū Shinmonryū (法華宗真門流), a denomination within the Nichiren Buddhist tradition whose head temple is Honryūji in Kyoto's Nishijin district. The denomination traces its lineage to Nichiren, the 13th-century Buddhist reformer, through the teachings of Nisshin, who established Honryūji in 1488.

For centuries, Honjuji served the spiritual needs of the local community in the shadow of Kinosaki's thriving hot spring culture. However, the temple's history took a dramatic turn on May 23, 1925, when the Kita-Tajima Earthquake (北但大震災) struck the region. This magnitude 6.8 earthquake, centered near the mouth of the Maruyama River, devastated the towns of Toyooka and Kinosaki. In Kinosaki alone, approximately 90 percent of the town was destroyed by the earthquake and the fires that followed, claiming 272 lives.

In the aftermath of this catastrophe, the people of Kinosaki rallied together under a spirit of mutual prosperity (共存共栄), rebuilding their town with wider roads, fire-resistant construction, and restored public bathhouses. It was during this era of reconstruction that the present main hall of Honjuji was completed in 1931 (Shōwa 6), just six years after the earthquake. The hall was later expanded in 1999 (Heisei 11) to better serve the temple community.

Designation as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property

On October 27, 2017, the main hall of Honjuji was officially registered as a national Registered Tangible Cultural Property (Building) by the Agency for Cultural Affairs under registration number 28-674. The registration recognized the building's contribution to the historical landscape of the nation (国土の歴史的景観に寄与しているもの).

The main hall is valued as an important example of early Shōwa-era religious architecture that embodies the post-earthquake reconstruction of Kinosaki Onsen. While many structures from this period have been lost to subsequent development, the Honjuji Main Hall preserves the architectural sensibilities and skilled craftsmanship of a community determined to restore its cultural and spiritual heritage after devastating loss. Its survival contributes meaningfully to the historical character of the Kinosaki hot spring district.

Architectural Highlights

The main hall is a single-story wooden structure with a tiled roof, covering a floor area of approximately 159 square meters. It faces south within the temple grounds, which are situated on the hillside above the Kinosaki hot spring district.

The interior of the hall is distinguished by its elaborate coffered ceilings (格天井, gōtenjō) throughout, with the inner sanctuary (内陣, naijin) featuring an even more ornate raised coffered ceiling (折上格天井, oriagegōtenjō) that creates a sense of solemnity and grandeur. The raihai pillars (来迎柱, raigōchū) flanking the inner sanctuary are adorned with shishi-bana (lion-nose brackets) and baku-bana (tapir-nose brackets), traditional decorative elements that demonstrate sophisticated wood-carving techniques.

The rear of the hall extends into three sections: a central shumidan (須弥壇, altar platform) housing the principal Buddhist image, a founder's altar (開祖の壇) on the right, and a memorial tablet hall (位牌堂, ihaido) on the left. This tripartite arrangement reflects the importance placed on honoring both the Buddhist teachings and the temple's lineage.

Perhaps the most striking decorative element is the dragon carving in the kaerumata (蟇股, frog-leg bracket) of the front porch (向拝, kōhai). This masterful woodwork is attributed to the Matsumoto school of Banshū Shikama carving (播州飾磨彫), a celebrated regional tradition of ornamental wood carving from the Himeji area of Hyogo Prefecture. These carvings, known for their dynamism and intricate detail, add a powerful artistic dimension to the temple's entrance.

Visiting Honjuji Temple

Honjuji Temple is located in the Kinosaki Onsen area of Toyooka City, within easy walking distance of the hot spring district's main street. The temple grounds are open to respectful visitors, and the peaceful atmosphere provides a welcome contrast to the bustling onsen town below.

As the "Temple of Flowers," Honjuji is particularly beautiful during the spring and early summer months when seasonal blooms fill the grounds with color. The hillside setting also offers pleasant views of the surrounding area. Visitors should note that as an active place of worship, quiet and respectful behavior is appreciated.

The nearest station is JR Kinosaki Onsen Station on the San'in Main Line, from which the temple is accessible on foot in approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Many visitors choose to combine a visit to Honjuji with the famous sotoyu-meguri (outdoor hot spring bath hopping) that Kinosaki Onsen is renowned for.

Surrounding Attractions

Kinosaki Onsen is one of Japan's most celebrated hot spring destinations, offering seven public bathhouses (外湯, sotoyu) that visitors can enjoy by strolling through the atmospheric streets in traditional yukata robes and wooden geta sandals. The willow-lined Ōtani River, arched stone bridges, and wooden ryokan inns create a quintessentially Japanese townscape.

Onsenji Temple (温泉寺), located on nearby Mount Daishi, is another must-visit cultural site. This ancient temple, founded in 738, serves as the guardian temple of Kinosaki Onsen and houses several Important Cultural Properties, including a magnificent wooden main hall from the Muromachi period. The temple can be reached via the Kinosaki Onsen Ropeway, which also offers panoramic views of the town and the Sea of Japan coast.

The San'in Kaigan UNESCO Global Geopark, which encompasses the Kinosaki area, offers dramatic coastal scenery, sea caves, and geological formations. In winter, the region is renowned for its matsuba-gani (snow crab) cuisine, while the Tajima beef from the surrounding area is considered among the finest wagyu in Japan.