Nakayama Shrine Main Hall: The Ichinomiya of Mimasaka Province
Standing amid ancient groves in the Ichinomiya district of Tsuyama City, Okayama Prefecture, Nakayama Shrine (中山神社) holds the distinguished title of ichinomiya—the highest-ranking shrine—of the former Mimasaka Province. Its main hall, rebuilt in 1559 by the Sengoku-era warlord Amago Haruhisa, is designated as a national Important Cultural Property. The shrine's history stretches back to 707 CE, and it remains a place of deep spiritual significance, renowned for its unique architectural style, its legendary monkey deity, and its role as a guardian of cattle and horses throughout the centuries.
Historical Background
According to shrine tradition recorded in the Nakayama Jinja Enyu, Nakayama Shrine was founded in 707 CE (Keiun 4) during the reign of Emperor Monmu, when a local leader named Otomaru transferred a sacred site dedicated to Ōnamuchi-no-Mikoto to the deity of Nakayama. The shrine's earliest appearance in official records dates to 860 CE, when the Nihon Sandai Jitsuroku notes that the deity "Nakayama-no-Kami" was elevated to the junior fourth rank, lower grade. By 875 CE, the deity had been promoted to the senior third rank, reflecting the shrine's growing prestige.
In the Engishiki of 927 CE, Nakayama Shrine is listed as the sole Myōjin Taisha (major shrine of special distinction) in Mimasaka Province, and from the medieval period onward it served as the province's ichinomiya. The shrine is also referenced in classical literature: the Konjaku Monogatari (Tales of Times Now Past) recounts a famous legend about a monkey deity worshipped here, while the Ryōjin Hishō, compiled by Retired Emperor Go-Shirakawa, mentions it alongside Itsukushima Shrine and Kibitsu Shrine as one of the great shrines west of the barrier.
During the Sengoku period, the shrine suffered devastating fires in 1511 and 1533 as rival clans battled across Mimasaka. The main hall, subsidiary shrines, and virtually all historical documents and treasures were destroyed. In 1559, Amago Haruhisa, the lord of Izumo who had conquered Mimasaka, rebuilt the main hall as an offering of gratitude for his military victories. This is the structure that survives today as an Important Cultural Property.
Why It Was Designated an Important Cultural Property
The main hall of Nakayama Shrine was designated as an Important Cultural Property (originally classified as a National Treasure under the old system) on April 17, 1914. Several factors contributed to this designation:
The hall exemplifies a distinctive architectural form known as "Nakayama-zukuri" (Nakayama style), characterized by its irimoya-zukuri (hip-and-gable roof) with tsuma-iri (gable-end entry) configuration, combined with a mukō karahafu (forward-facing cusped gable) over the kōhai (worship porch). This style is unique to the region and became the model for numerous other shrine buildings across the Mimasaka area. The structure measures three bays by three bays and is roofed with hinoki (cypress bark) shingles. As a mid-16th century construction that preserves the regional architectural traditions of the Muromachi period, the main hall is an invaluable example of shrine architecture found nowhere else in Japan.
Architectural Highlights and Points of Interest
The main hall is an imposing structure with a floor area of approximately 41.5 tsubo (about 137 square meters). Its cypress-bark roof sweeps elegantly over the irimoya form, while the tsuma-iri entrance—placing the main approach at the gable end rather than the eave side—gives the building a distinctive frontal appearance. The mukō karahafu porch adds a graceful curved canopy to the entrance, creating a sense of depth and ceremony.
Beyond the main hall, the shrine precinct offers several other treasures. The torii gate, erected in 1791 from granite, stands approximately 11 meters tall and features a unique design known as the "Nakayama torii"—the crossbar (nuki) passes through the pillars but does not extend beyond them, lacking the usual projecting ends (kibana) found on most torii. This form is recognized as architecturally distinctive nationwide.
The shrine gate (shinmon) is a four-legged yakui-mon gate originally located at the ninomaru (second bailey) of Tsuyama Castle. It was relocated to the shrine in the early Meiji period and is designated as a Tsuyama City Cultural Property.
At the rear of the main hall lies the Saru Jinja (Monkey Shrine), a small sanctuary nestled against a rocky outcrop. This shrine is said to enshrine the spirit of the monkey deity described in the Konjaku Monogatari. Visitors still follow the tradition of taking home a small red cloth monkey figurine when making a wish and returning two upon its fulfillment. The Monkey Shrine is revered as a guardian of cattle, horses, infants, and fertility.
The approach to the shrine is lined with magnificent trees, including a zelkova estimated to be 800 years old (designated as a Tsuyama City Natural Monument) and a hackberry tree estimated at 500 years old, selected as one of Japan's notable trees. The Sōshinden (Hall of All Deities), rebuilt in 1742, enshrines the deities of 120 subsidiary shrines from throughout the mountain.
Festivals and Events
One of the most beloved annual events is the Otaue Matsuri (Rice Planting Festival), held on April 29. During this ceremony, two lion dancers perform to the accompaniment of flute and drum while twelve parishioners in white robes simulate rice planting on the stone pavement of the shrine grounds, praying for an abundant harvest.
The Onshime Matsuri (Sacred Rope Festival) in December traces its origins to prayers for national protection during the Mongol invasions of the 13th century. Originally called the Hoko Matsuri (Spear Festival), it involves the ritual preparation and installation of sacred ropes.
Visitor Information
Nakayama Shrine is freely accessible year-round with no admission fee. The shrine grounds are open throughout the day, and visitors can walk the atmospheric approach, view the main hall from the worship hall, and explore the subsidiary shrines at their own pace. Goshuin (shrine stamps) are available at the shrine office. A visit typically takes 30 to 60 minutes, depending on how thoroughly one explores the grounds and surrounding forest.
Surrounding Attractions
Tsuyama City offers a wealth of historical and cultural sites to complement a visit to Nakayama Shrine. Tsuyama Castle, a hilltop fortress famous for its spectacular stone walls and cherry blossoms, is approximately 15 minutes away by car. The castle's Kakuzan Park is one of Japan's top cherry blossom viewing spots, with around 1,000 trees blooming each spring.
The Jōtō and Jōsai historical districts preserve the atmosphere of the old castle town with their traditional merchant houses and samurai residences. The former Tsuyama Domain School (Tsuyama Han Gakkō) offers insight into Edo-period education. For nature lovers, the Yokono Falls and the surrounding countryside provide scenic hiking opportunities.
Visitors interested in shrine architecture can also visit Tsuyama's other notable shrines built in the Nakayama-zukuri style, including Tokumori Shrine and Tsuruyama Hachimangu, both located within the city center.
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Q&A
- What is "Nakayama-zukuri" architecture?
- Nakayama-zukuri is a distinctive shrine architectural style unique to the Mimasaka region of Okayama Prefecture. It features an irimoya (hip-and-gable) roof with tsuma-iri (gable-end entry) and a mukō karahafu (forward-facing cusped gable) over the worship porch. This style, originating from Nakayama Shrine's main hall, became the model for many other shrines throughout the area.
- How do I get to Nakayama Shrine from Tsuyama Station?
- From JR Tsuyama Station, you can take a bus bound for Nishi-Tanabe and alight at "Ichinomiya Hoikujo-mae" (approximately 20 minutes). By car or taxi, the shrine is about 15 minutes from Tsuyama Station (approximately 6 km north), or about 15 minutes from the Innosho IC on the Chugoku Expressway. There is free parking available on the shrine grounds.
- What is the legend of the monkey deity at Nakayama Shrine?
- The Konjaku Monogatari (12th century) recounts that the deity of Nakayama was a monkey spirit that demanded human sacrifices. A brave warrior eventually subdued the monkey deity. Today, the Saru Jinja (Monkey Shrine) behind the main hall enshrines this spirit as a protector of cattle, horses, and children. Visitors follow the custom of taking a small red cloth monkey figurine when making a wish and returning two when the wish is fulfilled.
- Is there an admission fee to visit Nakayama Shrine?
- No, there is no admission fee. The shrine grounds are freely accessible year-round. Goshuin (shrine seal stamps) are available for a small offering at the shrine office.
- Who rebuilt the main hall and when?
- The current main hall was rebuilt in 1559 (Eiroku 2) by Amago Haruhisa, a powerful Sengoku-era warlord based in Izumo Province (present-day Shimane Prefecture). He ordered the reconstruction as a votive offering after conquering the Mimasaka region. The previous structures had been destroyed by fire during the wars of the 1510s and 1530s.
Basic Information
| Name | Nakayama Shrine Main Hall (中山神社本殿) |
|---|---|
| Designation | Important Cultural Property (designated April 17, 1914) |
| Construction | 1559 (Eiroku 2), Muromachi period |
| Architectural Style | Nakayama-zukuri: 3-bay × 3-bay, single-story, irimoya-zukuri with tsuma-iri, mukō karahafu kōhai, hinokibuki (cypress bark roof) |
| Principal Deity | Kagami-tsukuri-no-Kami (Mirror-Making Deity) |
| Shrine Rank | Ichinomiya (First Shrine) of Mimasaka Province; Myōjin Taisha in the Engishiki; former Kokuhei Chūsha |
| Address | 695 Ichinomiya, Tsuyama City, Okayama Prefecture 708-0815 |
| Access | About 15 min by car from JR Tsuyama Station; about 15 min from Innosho IC (Chugoku Expressway); bus from Tsuyama Station to "Ichinomiya Hoikujo-mae" (approx. 20 min) |
| Parking | Free parking available |
| Admission | Free |
| Contact | 0868-27-0051 |
References
- 中山神社本殿 - 文化遺産オンライン
- https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/148221
- 津山市内の国指定文化財 - 津山市公式
- https://www.city.tsuyama.lg.jp/life/index2.php?id=3451
- 中山神社 - 岡山県神社庁
- https://www.okayama-jinjacho.or.jp/search/16978/
- 中山神社 - 岡山観光WEB
- https://www.okayama-kanko.jp/spot/detail_10532.html
- 中山神社 - Wikipedia
- https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E4%B8%AD%E5%B1%B1%E7%A5%9E%E7%A4%BE
- 中山神社 - 津山瓦版
- https://www.e-tsuyama.com/kankou/check/jinja/nakayama/
- 美作国一宮！中山神社の御朱印・ご利益 - 日宝綜合製本
- https://www.nippoh-goshuin.net/2023/04/27/...
Last verified: 2026.04.07