Enryaku-Ji Temple Daishoin

From Tokyo's Akasaka to Mount Hiei

The Daishoin's origins lie in a grand estate known as Sanno-so (山王荘), which once occupied a sprawling 5,000-tsubo plot in Tokyo's prestigious Akasaka-Sanno district — the very site where Tokyo Metropolitan Hibiya High School stands today. The estate belonged to Murai Kichibei (1864–1926), a self-made entrepreneur who rose from a humble Kyoto tobacco peddler to become known as Japan's "Tobacco King." Murai amassed a fortune through his revolutionary introduction of machine-rolled cigarettes to Japan, and his estate reflected his extraordinary wealth.

The design of the Sanno-so was overseen by Takeda Goichi (1872–1938), one of the most influential architects of modern Japan. Often called the "Father of Kansai Architecture," Takeda was the founder of the architecture department at Kyoto Imperial University and a pioneer in introducing Art Nouveau and Secessionist design to Japan. The master carpenter Kobayashi Tomizo served as the on-site supervisor throughout the construction, which took place between 1916 and 1919.

A Dramatic Relocation

Following Murai's death in January 1926 and the subsequent collapse of the Murai financial empire during the Showa Financial Crisis, the estate was put up for auction. In August 1927, a suggestion came from the Cabinet Secretariat to the head abbot of Enryaku-ji: with Emperor Showa's enthronement ceremony (Gotaiten) scheduled for November 1928 in Kyoto, the temple would need a suitable reception hall for the many dignitaries expected to visit.

The temple agreed to purchase the dismantled building materials, and so began an extraordinary logistical endeavor. An entire special train was arranged by the Railway Ministry, and the building materials were transported from Tokyo by rail. Since the newly opened cable car could not handle such large cargo, an estimated 10,000 laborers carried the pieces up the mountain by hand. Construction proceeded at breakneck speed: the groundbreaking ceremony was held on June 11, 1928, the ridge-raising on August 7, and the completion ceremony on November 9 — just in time for the imperial enthronement celebrations.

The Grand Entrance (Genkan)

The entrance wing features an impressive karahafu (唐破風) — a distinctive cusped gable that has long been associated with the highest status in Japanese architecture. This elaborate entryway, with its sweeping curved roofline, immediately signals the extraordinary quality of what lies within.

The Kyokko-no-Ma (旭光の間)

The grandest space in the Daishoin is the Kyokko-no-Ma, or "Chamber of Morning Light," a large formal reception room that served as the primary entertaining space. This magnificent room exemplifies the finest traditions of shoin-style architecture with its tokonoma alcove, decorative shelving, and exquisite fusuma paintings. The raised floor of the tokonoma was specifically designed to appear dignified when viewed from a seated position in Western-style chairs — a thoughtful Taisho-era adaptation that reflects the building's dual Japanese and international sensibility.

The Kangetsudai (観月台) and Lake Biwa Views

The two-story residential wing includes a moon-viewing platform (kangetsudai) that offers breathtaking panoramic views. From this elevated vantage point at approximately 800 meters above sea level, visitors can gaze across the vast expanse of Lake Biwa — Japan's largest freshwater lake — and the surrounding Omi landscape. This dramatic vista was not part of the building's original Tokyo setting; the relocation to Mount Hiei bestowed upon the Daishoin a natural backdrop that the original builders could never have imagined.

Lavish Interior Details

The interior showcases an extraordinary attention to detail. Silver-leaf fusuma panels, which require more costly maintenance than gold leaf and were historically considered a greater display of wealth, adorn several rooms. The building features intricate ranma transoms reportedly designed by Takeda Goichi himself, delicate glass light fixtures, and precious wood joinery throughout. Every element reflects the uncompromising standards of Taisho-era craftsmanship at its very finest.

Access

Mount Hiei can be reached from both the Kyoto and Shiga sides:

• From Shiga (Sakamoto Cable Car): Take the JR Kosei Line to Hiezan-Sakamoto Station, then bus or walk to Sakamoto Cable Car station. The cable car ride takes about 11 minutes. From the upper station, it is a 10-minute walk to the Todo area.
• From Kyoto (Eizan Cable Car & Ropeway): Take the Eizan Railway from Demachiyanagi Station to Yase-Hieizanguchi Station, then ride the cable car and ropeway to the mountain summit. Note that this route is closed from early December to mid-March.
• By Bus from Kyoto Station: Direct buses run to the Enryaku-ji Bus Center (approximately 70 minutes). This service is suspended during winter months.
• By Car: Access via the Hieizan Driveway toll road from the Kyoto or Shiga side. Free parking is available at the temple.